shorting the start button and kill switch wires

MartinT

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Hi, long-time lurker, my first post..,

A few years ago, I was searching and finally found \ purchased a red 1981 XS400 Special II with low mileage (only 3k). The bike was running fine, except for a small little issue with the wobbly\loose starter button that I had been ignoring.

Over the years, my starter button fell out, but I had figured out that plugging small screw driver starts the bike and been starting the bike by using a screwdriver in the button hole. A few months ago, I decided to replace the starter button and purchased an aftermarket, identical left-side control handle described for a 1981 XS400 (from eBay). However, I noticed the plug was slightly different, even though the four wires were the same colors and was wired same as original one.

I figured it wouldn’t be a big deal\project and decided to untangle the original left control wire from the headlight, unplug it, and swap the plugs. I went ahead and cut the four wires (two reds, one blue, and the ground), then connected them to the new handle, ensuring the ground plate was touching the chrome bar... Unfortunately, during the process, I accidentally shorted the four wires.

Now, none of those wires have power (2red 1 blue and ground), and I’m not hearing any clicks from the safety starter switch when I turn the key. I’ve checked all the fuses and the starter safety switch. I even tested the starter by bridging the two terminals with a screwdriver, and the bike tried to turn over. I also disconnected the starter safety switch and tested it with a multimeter, and it does make a clicking sound. However, when everything is re-connected to the bike, I don’t hear any clicks (from the safety switch) when I turn the ignition on and nothing happens when pressing the start button. There’s also no spark when I attempt to kickstart the bike with both the ignition and kill switch on.

Any thoughts or suggestions on my next steps would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!
 
thank you.. fuses are good .. i have also checked the ground wire by making sure it is touching the right handlebar, i have tested the safety relay for a click by taking it out of the bike and connecting spare battery with multimeter.. hm also noticed both safety switches (neutral and estart? - the one's under seat but not sure how to bypass or properly test without causing more damage..looking at wiring diagram and scratching my head here
 
also wanted to add that the battery is brand new tested and on trickle charger ..appreciate any thoughts \ suggestions or ideas as to next steps.. thank you .. martin
 
The starter button is always on the right side???
On the starter solenoid there are the two big terminals that you shorted (a good test) then a red wire and blue white wire. The red should have +12 if not find out why it doesn't. The blue is shorted to ground by the starter button, short it to ground at the solenoid to test. that will greatly narrow down your search for problems.
Vintage Yamaha fuse boxes are notoriously weak, with the fuse holder metal tabs often rotted into uselessness. Test for +12 everywhere in the fuse box with a 12 volt test bulb.
 
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The starter button is always on the right side???
On the starter solenoid there are the two big terminals that you shorted (a good test) then a red wire and blue white wire. The red should have +12 if not find out why it doesn't. The blue is shorted to ground by the starter button, short it to ground at the solenoid to test. that will greatly narrow down your search for problems.
Vintage Yamaha fuse boxes are notoriously weak, with the fuse holder metal tabs often rotted into uselessness. Test for +12 everywhere in the fuse box with a 12 volt test bulb.
Yes the fusebox and glass type fuses can look OK when in fact, they are not. As Gary says, confirm 12+ volts at the fusebox. Even if this is not the issue now, you might think about upgrading to something with blade type fuses. Cheap insurance.
 
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