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Slipping gear? Maybe bad valve adjustment?

No it doesn’t occur when shifting its almost as if I’m not shifting at all… my rpm’s don’t come down when shifting… well they do just not as much as they should. The difference between second and third is literally next to nothing. When shifting from second to third the rpm’s drop maybe 100-300
 
Video is inconclusive.
The shift to 3rd doesn’t sound like 3 thou rpm throttling. It’s sound like coasting or decelerating.
From Stop up to shifting to 3rd sounds about normal for a mild residential street check.
Maybe a more aggressive video in upper gears would be more helpful.
 
That’s what I think too maybe my tdc mark is off… I’ll send a video of me riding it real quick but it’s hard to do with one hand and while riding. What does this degree wheel do? And how do you use it? I won’t push it past 40mph but the rpm’s going 40mph in 5th gear are around 4k
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Meter-Tachometer-Small-Engine/dp/B072KPKNT9/ref=sr_1_8

.....for diagnostic purposes (I keep one in my toolbox as even OEM tachs often aren't accurate and aftermarket less so)


As to the degree wheel, adjust the size and inner hole as needed to fit your flywheel. Afix it to your flywheel and place 0 degrees at TDC. The "F" mark should then align with 12-15 degrees BTDC and the advanced (> 2500rpm) should be no more than 40 degrees BTDC(36 for mine)
 
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Would this work in finding top dead center? Sorry I just can’t quite wrap my head around all the terminology used. Still quite new to the mechanic scene. Also what does BOT mean? And I’m not throttling at all. I use to easily coast down that hill in third now it wants to decelerate.
 
Ok just a quick question… if my top dead center is off, shouldn’t me adjusting my timing at least change how it performs a little? Could valves be an issue still? Is there a possibility that a tight valve could cause this issue?
 
Ok so the bike was off timing but I got it tuned in. But I still run into the same problem high revs in high gears. I still have torque and power to go faster but the bike is just reving extremely high. I added a picture of the advance if anyone can see anything wrong with it. I see the return spring is pretty beat up but should I go back to valves now that it’s timed?
Try putting a socket on the nut, turn by fingers till the weights open then quickly let go.
The weights should snap back, not mouse trap fast but fast. You're missing a retaining clip on one of the weights.
 
You think my clutch could still be slipping?
YES... Early in one of your posts you said the engine revs rise but you only go 45 or 50 mph. Quit overthinking it. Perhaps setting your valves correctly gave you even more power and the clutch cannot handle more power when it is not adjusted CORRECTLY. Road speed and engine revs are a linear function of the gear ratio. When that function becomes non linear your clutch is slipping (or your sprockets are shot. NO other explanation. Period.
 
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