• It's time to vote for the bikes you want to see in the 2025 XS650 Calendar! Vote here!

Slipping gear? Maybe bad valve adjustment?

Owen8, I believe you have a problem, but not the skills to resolve the issues even with our help. Best take it to a bike mechanic and get professional assessment so to can try and fix it. Or pay the guy to do it.
 
Owen8, I believe you have a problem, but not the skills to resolve the issues even with our help. Best take it to a bike mechanic and get professional assessment so to can try and fix it. Or pay the guy to do it.
I believe you may be right. But I’d rather keep struggling through it than pay these outrageous labor hours here in California!😅 I’ll provide a really good video here soon on how it rides. And maybe that will clear some things up.
 
And ya I know that’s why I’m reaching out for help😂 I’m a broke college student who doesn’t get spoiled by my parents so I had to work my way to buying my form of transportation. A simple you did this wrong would suffice.
That’s a fair shout. I’m no rich person myself, and skimp to keep my bike on the road. But I have a basic knowledge of mechanical workings. You really are not giving us a logical process of elimination with images or videos to assist you in helping to solve the issue. We are helping from a distance, not on hand. I hope that will suffice.
 
That’s exactly what I think! I’ve been reading a ton on people with similar bikes to the xs and everyone seems to be pointing to air leak! The vacuum lines on my carb have slipped off before and have had a similar effect on the bike but I didn’t want to fiddle with them in fear of messing up something else.
Carry on, Owen. You're getting a lot of valuable input from the community here.
  1. First problem seems to be a slipping clutch => doesn't go any faster at a given rpm regardless of what gear its in. That's because it gets to a point where the engine's power overpowers the clutch, making it slip. Fix or get that fixed first. Start with clutch adjustment (cable/linkage free-play). After that, I'm afraid you're into the clutch itself, which will require disassembly of the clutch via the right-side case cover.
  2. Next problem seems to be engine revs not dropping when you get out of the throttle (between gears) => the infamous "hanging throttle" ? Sounds like a vacuum leak to me, but could also be a sticky throttle cable / linkage / needle. I will defer to those with greater expertise on the subject.
  3. Next issue is all the mechanical clatter => I think cam chain wear or chain guide wear or damage are the initial items to eliminate. After that, it could be any number of things...
 
Regarding the clutch adjustment.
At the left side of the engine, the adjustment screw is turned in until it just makes contact and then it's turned back an eighth of a turn or a sixth of a turn.....a smidge we'll say. It allows for heat expansion. IF you bottom the adjustment screw down then as the engine heats up you are engaging the clutch a bit as the clutch pushrod expands. Knowing when to stop turning that screw in is crucial and requires X-ray vision or a super sensitive touch.........

Hanging idle.
Changing out the stock airboxes for pods and changing out the restrictive stock exhaust system to a more open 2 into 1 without making main and pilot jet changes in the carbs can lead to a lean running condition and a hanging idle.
I recently found that my clutch lever was out of round where it bolts to the clutch perch. That has been making my adjustments interesting and mildly frustrating. New lever is on its way.

That you have a bike somebody "improved", well.......
Post some overall pics.
 
Opened up the case to see if I could find anything my clutch cable was held on by duck tape… and not sure if this would effect anything but this washer was bent to hell. My piston stop is coming in soon and I’ve heard mixed opinions. Would the piston stop foul on the valves if I reverse the rotation 360?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0941.jpeg
    IMG_0941.jpeg
    442.5 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_0940.jpeg
    IMG_0940.jpeg
    413.7 KB · Views: 35
Yes, that is possible. Do the initial setup as close to TDC as you can... and go slow. Fouling a valve while going slow won't hurt nothing. Going fast or forcing it can.
Fwiw, my homemade one never fouled. Can't speak to the store bought ones, but I suspect that as long as the initial setup is close to the top, you'll be OK.
 
Yes, that is possible. Do the initial setup as close to TDC as you can... and go slow. Fouling a valve while going slow won't hurt nothing. Going fast or forcing it can.
Fwiw, my homemade one never fouled. Can't speak to the store bought ones, but I suspect that as long as the initial setup is close to the top, you'll be OK.


Thank you that’s what I ended up doing and my marks are accurate that were there before. Turned the engine over after I did the job and this is how it sounded.


Didn’t get to ride today, Ran out of daylight.
 
On my phone here it sounds like it’s missing on one cylinder.
Two into one exhaust just might sound deceiving however .
Bare head pipes are easy to feel for temperature to ensure both are equal?

I hear some knocking or strange sound engine on the right side .. Dont want to be alarmist but there is also some smoke
Timing check a first.
 
Idle should be set @1100 rpm.
Yeah, they sound a bit like sewing machines but they're not Hardly thumpers.


It’s set pretty darn close to that. And I would agree one cylinder (the right one) does seem to be struggling. I’ll look and see if I’m on time again. Also would make sense on why I’m not getting a lot of power
 
And I would agree one cylinder (the right one) does seem to be struggling. I’ll look and see if I’m on time again. Also would make sense on why I’m not getting a lot of power
Yup, one cylinder is just good enough to get to the garage.
It takes both, electrically timed correctly, to move forward to the other systems. carbureation, clutch, etc..
 
Back
Top