So I wasn’t crazy after all…

SEd27

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*Warning* Longish Post….

I have been running XS Performance rims and cad spokes on my Special for a while now.

When I originally laced the wheels, the front went together no problem.

However, the fit on the 18” rear left something to be desired. It was as though the spokes were slightly short (i.e too much exposed thread) or the rim was drilled incorrectly.

I racked my brain trying to figure out the issue and must have assembled/ disassembled that rear wheel a dozen + times.

I finally got all the spokes threaded in the correct pattern (though barely) and took the rims to a shop to get tightened/ trued.

Fast forward to to this year when I found a couple loose spokes on the rear. I went to tighten and with barely a quarter turn, snapped the head off one of the spokes.

This was odd, as the spoke was not even close to being tight nor was it seized.

I decided to play it safe order a completely new rear rim and stainless spokes from XS650Direct.

Upon disassembly of the rear, I compared the new (blue) and old (red) spokes/ nipples :

IMG_0061.jpeg


Low a behold the new stainless units are slightly longer. However, the most noticeable discrepancy is in the nipple length.

The longer nipples would have made lacing the originals so much easier.

Not sure if I received the incorrect units or if that was just what was supplied at the time, but the nipples were clearly too short for the application (you can see the colour difference on the cad spoke were the threads were exposed).

It just never dawned on me to check that a longer nipple was available, as I was converting from a 16” to 18”.

I mocked up the stainless units with the new rim last night and am much happier with the fit.
 
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On a related matter, I was planning on coating the spoke threads with anti-seize to prevent galling.

Do I need to also apply at the hub where the are seated to prevent and galvanic corrosion between the stainless and aluminum?
 
On a related matter, I was planning on coating the spoke threads with anti-seize to prevent galling.

Do I need to also apply at the hub where the are seated to prevent and galvanic corrosion between the stainless and aluminum?
The spokes in my original SK 48 spoke wheel are seized. It’s otherwise a nice wheel. Based on that alone…..
 
Just changed my tires on wheels I built with MikesXS stainless spokes 5ish years and 15,000 miles ago, no noticable issues with corrosion at hub holes. I wouldn't add gookum there, it's going to make a dirt magnet, and don't use it in the nipples either. Trueness and spoke ping tests were both good so I didn't do any spoke adjusting. 50 years on I can USUALLY remove factory spokes from nipples after dousing with rust buster even if they are on the rusty side. If not, a bolt cutter makes short work of it.
 
On a related matter, I was planning on coating the spoke threads with anti-seize to prevent galling.

Do I need to also apply at the hub where the are seated to prevent and galvanic corrosion between the stainless and aluminum?
When getting SS spoke kits from Buchanan's, they ship with a little bottle of gooey, black lube with explicit instructions on its use: http://www.buchananspokes.com/categories/miscellaneous_tools.asp

So I think it's imperative to use anti-seize or similar if using stainless nipple or spokes. The galvanic business on the hub end; not so much (unless it lives submersed).
 
I always anti-seize the spoke nipple threads, haven't had any issues. I don't put it between the nipple and rim though. But, what I have started to do to ward off corrosion on the inside of the rim and on the spoke nipple heads is coating it with red rubber grease .....

RedRubberGrease.jpg
 
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