I find it saves time to mark up every connector I split
With a piece of tape and the same number on each side of the connector
And on plastic connectors .. writing the color of the wire going in .
On a stock wiring this saves time and on a non stock wiring it saves a LOT of time
Since the wiring schematic is not helpful. Worst case not a single color is right

My battery box came out to the left 2 days ago wheel still there but Not the carburetors
Which if I recall right came out to the right right side intake rubber off
It does not come that easy but doable on both.

The same with the tear down keep all the nuts washer and parts in the same bag or jar or can.
Per unit .Carburetors in one
Clutch in one and so on
If the assembly happens later -- years even it saves at lot of time .Having it in a set

Here they sell candy per weight at some stores and it is delivered in plastic boxes
like a lunch box
7 inches wide square and 7 high and have a lid .Boxes which they throw away. after unpacking
I have got hold of those a couple of times and used for MC parts
Those can be stacked so after the disassembly there is a time Sequence the ones low in the stash was disassembled first
 
Hey guys long time no see been dragging my ass on this bike. It is fucking cold and the barn does not protect much from the chill. Well after making a impromptu plastic hut in the barn and buying a torpedo heater I've got the motor back in and am attempting to tackle the wiring. Wanting to replace reg/rec and delete anything to do with turn signals I put harnest on and tried to get it to give some sign of life but... nah. So took a step back and am going to reassess the situation.
 

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I plan on running just head light hi/low. Tail/break light. Oem stator fly. Boyer system. New after market reg/rec. No starter neutral light .toggle kill switch. So now pretend I'm a baby and have no idea how to do anything (witch I am) and explain what I need to do. Anything will help. Videos I should watch things I should buy ect.
 
Can use this and replace capacitor with battery?
Shouldn't be difficult. Main thing if you have a battery is you need the charging source, rectifier and regulator. The rectifier takes alternating current from PMA and 'smooths' it to direct current, the regulator limits flow so you don't fry the battery.
 
Shouldn't be difficult. Main thing if you have a battery is you need the charging source, rectifier and regulator. The rectifier takes alternating current from PMA and 'smooths' it to direct current, the regulator limits flow so you don't fry the battery.
I'm running oem stator fly wheel. For the new reg/rec unit do I need to ungrounded my brushes?
 
There's no need to spend big bucks on one of those motorcycle specific combined reg-recs. You can use an automotive regulator and a rectifier from the electronics world for much less. It would cost around $40, even less if you shopped around and found good deals.

No, the ignition is not related to the charging system.
 
Found this pretty cheap. Would like the front drum brake and know I need the forks because the brake stay. Will this front end fit on my 77. I know the fork tubes are not the same size so it's not as easy as just using forks. Will this fit the neck of my frame? Just curious before I jump on it. Plus the wheel is same Size? 3.50 x 19" I believe?
 

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34mm triple trees, main stem from 74-76 will bolt straight into a 77-83 frame. Any 34mm fork tubes should bolt into the 34mm triples.

will need the 76 crown and gauge bracket from the 34mm triples to match and use your 77 gauges
Not running gauges so we're in business on that. From the pics can you tell if that is a 74-76 front end?
 
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