Solid State Power Box for XS650

Good concept, Jim, but you won't be able to do a single installation guide "specific to the XS650." There were many minor changes over the years and a major change in 1980 when Yamaha replaced the early mechanical voltage regulator and separate rectifier with a solid state reg/rec module and changed the wiring to the alternator brushes.
 
Good concept, Jim, but you won't be able to do a single installation guide "specific to the XS650." There were many minor changes over the years and a major change in 1980 when Yamaha replaced the early mechanical voltage regulator and separate rectifier with a solid state reg/rec module and changed the wiring to the alternator brushes.

Yes, I see that there have been several changes to a bike with as much longevity as the XS-650. I'm not sure that the charging system is really a big impediment to integration of the SSPB. Whether the XS650 has an mechanical or solid state regulator or has a field controlled alternator of a Permanent Magnet Alternator (PMA), the SSPB still connects directly to a single Red wire. This is in addition to the other direct battery connection through a fused primary lead.

In effect the SSPB separates the primary power flow from charging and battery from the harness. This is especially critical if you have a PMA with shunt regulation.

I think it is harder to grasp how to take a non fuse box harness and convert it to segregated Signal,Headlamp and Ignition circuits. If you have a fusebox then the following diagrams are really all that is needed for a basic configuration. I think I am going to revise some of the GS documentation to show the connection in a corresponding way.

For the non fuse box model, the whole schematic is required to show the breaks in those circuits; I have done that for most of the early years.

Here are the drawings for a basic setup on a fuse box model (stock and conversion to SSPB).

Nominal_XS650_Fusebox_zps2cecf648.jpg


Nominal_XS650_Fusebox_W_SSPB_zpsdf694333.jpg


The primary benefits you see from here are that there is no longer any significant current running through either the IGN switch (only parking light power) or the Motor Stop switch. SIGNAL,HEADLAMP and IGNITION circuits remain segregated with equivalent "safe" solid state relays. So although there are some slight differences over the years as to how each of these circuits is wired in the harness, the connections shown at the fusebox will always be the same.

As is this is a minimum configuration, I have omitted the additional ACC channel for clarity.

In order to get the headlamp cutout from the solenoid signal, the wiring has to be reconfigured for high side control as is more traditional. If you don't have and Engine stop or a push button the SSPB defaults back to IGN switch control only. Of course because all power from battery and Alternator is routed through the SSPB it is fully protected "safe power" with the built in current and thermal limiting.
 
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I just found a competing product. It has an internal microprocessor that allows you to program the amp limits individually and oh by the way it is $199, it is a slightly different form factor.

2” high (51mm) x 3” (76mm) wide x .9” (24mm) deep

http://www.rocketmoto.com/index.php...ion-module-digital-circuit-breaker-panel.html

The big questions are is it really fail safe and what type of quiescent power does it pull. You also need to program it, although that is not really a big issue.

50 mil-amp quiesent power. That is 25 times the SSPB (i.e. 2 milli-amaps).

Based on the formula your 14 amp hour battery will be dead in 10 days. With the SSPB that is 250 days.


ALWAYS LIVE - Active – Always On – Constantly Powered (Note: circuit power is briefly interrupted upon ignition trigger signal)
*** WARNING *** THIS CONFIG HAS A CONSTANT CURRENT DRAW OF 50mA – IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR VEHICLE
BATTERIES WITH LESS THAN A 15Ah RATING, NOR FOR VEHICLES THAT ARE USED INFREQUENTLY or IN STORAGE, WITHOUT A
CHARGING SYSTEM/BATTERY TENDER BEING CONNECTED – USE THE FORMULA BELOW TO CALCULATE BATTERY DISCHARGE
Discharge Formula: Your Battery Ah rating / 1.5 = number of days to discharge
Example: (20Ah battery) 20Ah/1.5 = 13 Days to discharged condition
 
Yours seems to be a good product.

Finding competitors and posting/boasting how much better yours is makes me not want to have anything to do with any of this.
 
Yours seems to be a good product.

Finding competitors and posting/boasting how much better yours is makes me not want to have anything to do with any of this.

To each his own. :shrug:



BTW, my post was purely comparative and intended to be informational. I also understand that information is not always what certain people want.
 
Posplayer is the real deal Skull. He has done as much for the GS community as PamcoPete has for the XS. He has shared a wealth of info with all of us over there, gratis, and will be an enormously positive contributor here as well, as you will see in time. Maybe he'll even catch the XS bug. Sure, he's selling something, so is Pete. They're both stand up guys.
 
Not questioning anyone's commitment or the quality of the product.

Can't compare to Pamcopete, He has never posted a comparison of another product to his.

If another manufacture butted into this post advancing his/her product over posplayr's then fair game on them.

Not interested in a shit fight. It is my opinion wright or wrong, but mine, and that is based on post 24.

Not interested sorry guys.
 
Yours seems to be a good product.
Finding competitors and posting/boasting how much better yours is makes me not want to have anything to do with any of this.

@ Skull, Sooo you were thinking of purchasing this till post#24?
I think. . . . . . . not. You just needed a pot to put your paddle in.

@posplayr
Your product is way beyond my understanding but with all the bitchin and hatin going on with the original fused system you will find some interested parties I'm sure.
Good luck with your venture.
 
I see nothing wrong with posplayr's post, that compares a competitors product to his own. We live in an information age.................the more you have, enables the customer to make a better choice.
 
I see nothing wrong with posplayr's post, that compares a competitors product to his own. We live in an information age.................the more you have, enables the customer to make a better choice.

Thanks but I will admit to having selfish reasons for not posting a more detailed comparison. For now at least as a Fusebox replacement the PDM60 is a non starter because of excessive current draw. As a junction box you can put it on a 60 amp toggle switch and stop it from drawing which is workable although not very elegant. Might be something else you can do to it but I'm not going to put out $199 to do a compare. :bike:
 
@ Skull, Sooo you were thinking of purchasing this till post#24?
I think. . . . . . . not. You just needed a pot to put your paddle in.

@posplayr
Your product is way beyond my understanding but with all the bitchin and hatin going on with the original fused system you will find some interested parties I'm sure.
Good luck with your venture.

Weekender, thanks for the words of support. I'm sorry if the information I'm providing is still a little confusing but on the other hand I have posted a lot of information and I'm still trying to figure out the best/easiest presentation.

Typically this product would be intended for anybody that is looking at rewiring their bikes by adding in an aftermarket fusebox and relay or two. If you are not prepared or planning to do that then this may be out of the question. However given the benefits, taking this on should be a primary consideration and I've tried to make it as easy of not simpler than doing a aftermarket fuse box replacement. :)
 
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Posplayer is the real deal Skull. He has done as much for the GS community as PamcoPete has for the XS. He has shared a wealth of info with all of us over there, gratis, and will be an enormously positive contributor here as well, as you will see in time. Maybe he'll even catch the XS bug. Sure, he's selling something, so is Pete. They're both stand up guys.

Thanks MacMcMacmac,
Yes I have done a whole lot of how to's and various analysis for GS charging systems.

I only started riding motorcycles at the ripe age of 50 and as I got more into my GS's I was appalled at the various electrical issues almost everyone was seemingly dealing with. Some were just maintenance issues and others design issues aggravated by lack of maintenance. So as an systems/electrical engineer I took it upon myself to look for effective solutions to chronic electrical problems.

With PM alternator systems reaching a virtually ideal level of efficiency once fitted with a Series R/R and with the increased availability of these new Series R/R's there was really a new era for motorcycle charging systems. Despite this, the GS Charging Health write up I did was still probably overly complicated and generally more work than anybody wanted to do and beyond that generated quite a bit of discussion as it diverged from "conventional wisdom".

So while I was pondering this next new challenge the notion of a SSPB began to emerge. The original intent was a redesigned fuse box that "built in" the various recommendations of "charging health". The solid state functionality only came after I found automotive grade parts ideally suited to the task. But as I pursued the concept further it became clear that it would be too much work for any type of DIY and that the design needed to ferreted out sufficiently that simply doing a one off was not worth all of the design/test effort. And so as they say a product "was born". :thumbsup:
 
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Shipped three more SSPBs today for a total of 12 which includes one for a custom XS650 for Street Tracker.

I still have a few more before having to order more parts. $150 plus shipping/insurance for a 2 year fix or replace warranty.

Shipping/Insurance is $9 for US and $13 to Canada; email me at solidstatepowerbox@gmail.com if you are else where and want to order.
 
Those series compufire regs are the tits! I run one on my versys. To many stators getting toasted on new bikes because of shunt regs keeping the thing at full output all the time....off topic i know
 
Those series compufire regs are the tits! I run one on my versys. To many stators getting toasted on new bikes because of shunt regs keeping the thing at full output all the time....off topic i know

I agree any PM alternator system should use a SERIES R/R. The CF55402 is the smallest 3 phase R/R commonly available in the US.

I have a buddy that is restoring a 1970 Honda CB350 that has a single phase split coil PM alternator. Just picked up a used CF single phase R/R (on the cheap from ebay) for that rather than muck around with the other upgrades that have been popular for the CB350.

Do the aftermarket PMA upgrades (for XS650) have problems burning stators? If not it might be that the cooling with a smaller 650 engine is sufficient to keep the stator temperature down despite using SHUNT R/R's. Most bigger bikes have issues as you mentioned.
 
Probably not enough miles under the belt yet of pma on the xs. Time will tell. Only problem with the compufire on my versys is it the positive lead is always hot to it...so it has a draw, which isnt problem unless i let it sit for a few weeks. I generally dont use it to much anyways unless i plan to tour so the battery gets hooked up again when i re register it.

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Probably not enough miles under the belt yet of pma on the xs. Time will tell. Only problem with the compufire on my versys is it the positive lead is always hot to it...so it has a draw, which isnt problem unless i let it sit for a few weeks. I generally dont use it to much anyways unless i plan to tour so the battery gets hooked up again when i re register it.

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Interesting, are you sure it is from the Compufire? I have not measured any draw on mine
(CF55402) but I know if it does have any it is much less than an analog voltmeter I have.

You would need to measure current through either the plus or minus wire coming from the R/R. A load anywhere else could draw the battery down.

The unit could also be damaged (i.e. a shorted MOSFET). I would suspect that when off all MOSFETS are turned off meaning virtually zero current (uAmps) draw from the battery.
 
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