Spoke wheel rebuild

Some clarification for my comments above.

"Magnesium can be anodized but its applications are very limited. Titanium is perhaps the second most commonly anodized material, though still nowhere near as popular as aluminum. Some materials simply should not be anodized. Carbon steel will simply corrode if it is brought through an anodizing process"

"Anodizing is an electrochemical process that converts the metal surface into a decorative, durable, corrosion-resistant, anodic oxide finish. ... This aluminum oxide is not applied to the surface like paint or plating, but is fully integrated with the underlying aluminum substrate, so it cannot chip or peel.
Anodising is an electrolytic conversion coating – it transforms aluminium on the surface of components into aluminium oxide. Since aluminium converts rather than deposits, some of the thickness of the coating is ingress into the material and some of the thickness is growth out of the material. For most alloys, the anodised coating is approximately 50% ingress and 50% growth. The growth of coating from the original surface is therefore half the stated coating thickness. Internal diameters will get smaller by approximately the coating thickness and external diameters will grow."

Typical coating thickness is only .002" for a heavy application so that translates to 001" penetration and an additional .001" on the surface. For most areas this is negligible but for pin and bearing fits can cause you problems. It also makes the surface harder, and extremely thick applications are sometimes referred to as "Hardcoat Anodize"

With that said I love what WIllis is doing with his wheels, very nice contrast and look. I also like the early discs and have purchased a couple extra to use for my build.

It's a good process for stock fork lowers. The fork oil won't get full of aluminum near as quickly.
 
WIllis,
After reading about your search for new hardware for your disc, I had to go out and look at mine. I honestly couldn’t remember what I had. I did replace a lot of old and corroded nuts and bolts with new stuff along the way. It turns out that I did replace those carrier bolts with new ones, I probably replaced all of them for less than the cost of one factory bolt. The ones I used are not shouldered and they do not have a thin head, but clearance, while it is tight going by the fork leg and caliper, the clearance is not a problem.
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I then rummaged through my metric bolts, because I don’t throw them away, and I found 6 of the original 8. I must’ve used the other two somewhere along the line.
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There are more photos from when I assembled my front disc, here in my XS2 thread, if you’re interested.

Post#1838
http://www.xs650.com/threads/mailman’s-xs2-a-full-on-restoration.51520/page-92#post-577547
 
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Bobs Pic shows the missing bolts? Well then, using the pic I found 4 of the originals maybe ?
:umm:
14mm head?
-R
Edited... cant be. They must be 6mm that appear similar.
 
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Sounds like I need to pull one off the bike and make a run to the hardware store.
 
I didn't have it at the time I sent the other parts out. I acquired it after I had already received the powdered parts back. Plus I donn't think the coater would have taped off all the parts i wanted to remain polished. It's really a quick easy job to do yourself though.
 
Ahh, explanation makes sense. I didn't know if there was some other reason re: fitment or something. Agree there's a good chance they don't tape everything they should on that one. In any case, paint looks great!
 
I'm using All Balls fork seals and the tapered rollers in the head. Very satisfied with both.... so I'm not a hater. I'm reworking some XS1 wheels for the speed twin, so I started looking for wheel bearings. That's when I started seeing those reviews. So... I don't have any first hand experience, but for something like wheel bearings on a bike... I'm just gonna stick with Timken's. I'll save the money somewhere else.
Timken is in general awesome high quality bearings, problems of shifting from the original once is that the bearing dimensions are not mentioned anywhere i have looked, consequently need to measure the old bearings - which i do not like to much as they will be measured with the wear (if any), do you know where to look for size comparison ?
 
The difference between ball bearings for wheels and tapered rollers for steering heads is a completely different service duty.
And again the service duty comparison between using tapered rollers for steering heads or trailer wheel bearings likewise.
Wheels which are constantly turning and taking direct suspension impacts are much more highly stressed than the comparable duty in a steering stem which never rotates much more than 90-120 degrees of rotation max their entire life.
For steering stem I have absolutely no qualms about using Chinese bearings offered by All Balls. They used to have a detailed tapered bearing dimensional sheet offered on their website but I have recently noticed it is no longer there and the one they now have is much less detailed. They do have pretty extensive experience with wheel and steering heads replacement bearings though and I've never found a problem with their offerings personally for fit, wear and completeness in providing both bearings and seals as a package.
 
Hardware problem solved. My local hardware store has a great selection. Found some metric stainless Allen buttonhead bolts and nuts there. It calls for M6 x 18mm, but they only had 16 & 20mm. I grabbed the 20mm and will just cut them down a tad. Cost was about $12. The stainless was actually much cheaper than chrome. They even offer a Black Chrome, which was interesting, but at 4.50 per bolt I will pass. The stainless button heads actually sit flush with the rotor surface. It’ll do !
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Hardware problem solved. My local hardware store has a great selection. Found some metric stainless Allen buttonhead bolts and nuts there. It calls for M6 x 18mm, but they only had 16 & 20mm. I grabbed the 20mm and will just cut them down a tad. Cost was about $12. The stainless was actually much cheaper than chrome. They even offer a Black Chrome, which was interesting, but at 4.50 per bolt I will pass. The stainless button heads actually sit flush with the rotor surface. It’ll do !
View attachment 170421

Ooooh! Nice. I like that a lot! :cool:
 
I’m leaning towards the thought that the drilled rotor that’s on the bike now will look better on these black wheels and this undrilled one will fit better with the polished wheel set.
 
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