$@@/$$/$"$ Starter!

Gcraay

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:banghead: Im missing something here. I have a starter that won't react at all. It worked a couple times then nothing. I did all the usual stuff even rebuilt it. I did the car battery thing, but squat!
Heres the odd thing. I get no reaction with the car battery. Not even a little spark. The reason I say this is I tried it on another starter I knew was bad, and I at least got a spark.
Any ideas?
Can A starter be unrebuildable?
There's only the two brushes. What could screw up?
 
when that's happened on my workbench the problem was open cables...or a dead short between my ears...

it's not rocket science, but it is science...simply state no more than you know and then test the hypothesis - write down the numbers - repeat - in time the machine will obey.
 
When you rebuilt the starter did you cut the stuff between the contacts on the armature to a bit below the contacts. If not the brushes may not touch the contacts. Also did you test the starter before you installed it?
On the bench use jumper cables from a know good battery. Hook the ground to starter body, touch hot to the stud.
If it's on the bike Use the jumper cables and good battery, hook ground to good ground on bike. I use a front peg mount nut. Put a large screwdriver in the hot clamp. use the screwdriver as a probe. Reach under the bike and touch the stud. If the starter spins the starter is ok, if not pull the starter and check things out.
If it spins go up to the starter relay, touch the screwdriver to the stud on the cable to the starter. Does the starter spin? If so cable to starter is good.
Now remove the cables from the battery. hook one red clamp to the stud where the starter cable hooks on, touch the other red clamp to the other stud, if your bikes battery is ok, and the cables from the battery to relay and ground are ok the starter should spin.
If it does it may be the start button wiring. On the relay is two small wires, with the key and kill switch in the run positions the red/white wire should have battery voltage on it. If so unhook the blue/white wire and ground it, this should spin the starter, if no voltage ore low voltage on the red/white wire you need to trace it back to where the voltage gets lost.
If it spins you, hook the b/w wire back up. Take the handle bar switch off the bars. With the switch open Check for voltage on the blue/white wire, again should be battery voltage. If you have voltage jump the b/w to ground, this should spin the starter.
If it does you need to remove the push button and clean up the connections.
At this point the pushbutton has two different ground paths, Early bikes the button grounded to the bars then through the bars to risers, on the bottom of one of the risers was a black wire that ran around to one of the top tree clamp bolts, then through the top tree, steering stem, bearings to the frame, back to battery.
On the later bikes the switch grounds to the bars, through the bars to left side switch housing to a black wire down into headlight bucket where it hooked into the harness ground. A better ground than earlier bikes.
On either system the contact in the housings should be clean and touch clean bare metal. If you swapped the stock bars for black bars you need to clean off the black where the housing contacts touch the bars.
Leo
 
Does the button work? How about the solenoid? Probably time to get a multimeter if you don't already have one.

I have it on a test stand. I'm just getting frustrated. The voltage reads 12 volts at the starter, but nothing happens. Do you think the starter can be unrebuildable?
 
Sorry if I seem ignorant, I am, but dead short between the ears? I unsoldered the old brushes, soldered in the new, and reassembled. I even moved over the little bit of covering from the old one suspecting it insulated the wire. The issue started before the rebuild. I had the bike kicking over on the stand, thought my battery was low, and it didn't start. Ever since, notta!
 
It's very rare but an armature CAN go open between the segments. a "stuck on" starter that was running after the engine started or sustained cranking over could cause that. "Threw the solder" is an ancient mechanic's diagnosis. Ohm between the starter + bolt and ground it should read very low ohms, haven't looked up the spec but 2 ohms maybe?
In the USA working used starters are dime a dozen, buy one.
 
Remember the term, and that it is an armature tester, but the details are sketchy. Used to rebuild a 6 volt Delco starter, brushes, commutator clean up, bearings, on a forklift every couple of years.
 
After re-reading this thread I'm going to go with stuck brushes or a worn out comm in the starter if it's not working on the bench.

Not saying it doesn't happen, but I've never seen an open winding on an armature in close to 15 years of playing with engine driven toys.

A Gcraay, not trying to frustrate you, just trying to give you enough information to teach you how to fish...
 
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