Static timing problem

[steveheim]

I have done the following things.
Timing chain adjusted.
Valves set to 0.002 on the intake and 0.006 on the exhaust.
The static timing marks for both cylinders set to specifications.
Full advance mark lines up.

Some questions I'm not sure about.
Can accidentally grounding out the points with ignition on cause anything like a fuse to blow.

I have verified that I do have spark on both cylinders and I have fuel to the carbs.
I did start to take off the points cam lobe and was unsure if it was left hand or right hand threads . could this have caused any issues?
When I crank the bike over now absolutely nothing.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

 

[AUTOMAN]

No, closed points/grounding powers the coil. At 6 ohms or so it has no ill effect.
Keeping it on, without running just heats up the coil and points.

 

[Melnic]

Not sure if I'm interpreting what you are saying but static timing is NOT set to Full advanced, its set to the Ignition fire marks (see below)

You have watched the preferred video right?

you can use volt meter instead of the light. You want the voltage to go from 12V (abouts) to 0V as you cross the timing mark to the 2 marks each side of the F. I set mine pretty much in the middle for when I was doing static timing. good enough to get the bike to idle, then dial it in while idling with a timing light.

when you get your timing dialed in, and using a timing light, then when you throttle up, the weighted advanced mechanism on the right side of the valve cam shaft will advance the timing up to the C mark.

You use a dwell meter to dial in the points gap or use a gap measuring tool to measure the peak gap prior to dialing in timing. Of course, I gave all that up this year and went to a Boyer Bransden circuit.

 

[Jan_P]

When I crank the bike over now absolutely nothing.

Is that no spark or still spark ..
My first suspicion would be ignition 180 degrees off
The ignition spark at the right time according to timing marks but on the Exhaust stroke -- valve open

 

[steveheim]

Sorry for the vagueness but yes I tied the advanced Total advanced ( weights held out) in the total advance position) when I lined up that timing mark. And yes I set the bike up as per the video.

 

[Melnic]

Sorry for the vagueness but yes I tied the advanced Total advanced ( weights held out) in the total advance position) when I lined up that timing mark. And yes I set the bike up as per the video.

Was that confirmation after you set the timing to the F marks? Cause setting the timing by pushing weights out and using total advance is not typically how its done.

If you don't have spark, make sure you have 12V going to the points when open and 0V to the points when points closed.

 

[steveheim]

No the weights tied open was just to verify the advance mark.

 

[steveheim]

When I crank the bike over now absolutely nothing.

Is that no spark or still spark ..
My first suspicion would be ignition 180 degrees off
The ignition spark at the right time according to timing marks but on the Exhaust stroke -- valve open

Yes I agree with the 180° out but not sure how to verify that I'm setting it up at the right point. What would be the best way to verify that I'm at the right 180 or 360°.

 

[Its been a long time]

Yes I agree with the 180° out but not sure how to verify that I'm setting it up at the right point. What would be the best way to verify that I'm at the right 180 or 360°.

At TDC, the cylinder that's sparked has clearance in both rocker arms, it's at TDC compression. The other cylinder will be on valve overlap, no clearance in the rocker arms.

 

[steveheim]

Thank you , after lunch I'm heading back to the garage and try again.

 

[Jan_P]

Yes I agree with the 180° out but not sure how to verify that I'm setting it up at the right point. What would be the best way to verify that I'm at the right 180 or 360°.

Sorry 20 years since i had points .. Someone else come in
But guessing that from the points are coming wires flipping those perhaps And kick start

 

[GLJ]

Valves set to 0.002 on the intake and 0.006 on the exhaust.

.002 is a little tight for intakes. Set a loose .003 or even a little looser than that. Then take a compression test and post the results.

 

[steveheim]

Thank you , after lunch I'm heading back to the garage and try again.

Okay the right cylinder at top dead center. light goes off just as f mark lines up and with slack in the right cylinder rockers. All the details are the same for the left cylinder at F mark and slack in left rockers also.

 

[AUTOMAN]

it should fire on full advance.
breaking starter gears or kicking you off the bike, but it should lite up.

 

[steveheim]

.002 is a little tight for intakes. Set a loose .003 or even a little looser than that. Then take a compression test and post the results.

Okay right cylinder I have 92.2 PSI and the left cylinder I have 103.1 PSI.

 

[Jan_P]

Okay the right cylinder at top dead center. light goes off just as f mark lines up and with slack in the right cylinder rockers. All the details are the same for the left cylinder at F mark and slack in left rockers also.

Dont know this thing with the light .I would set it to correct position in retarded " Idle " and then with a strobe light check the advanced
once started

 

[steveheim]

Dont know this thing with the light .I would set it to correct position in retarded " Idle " and then with a strobe light check the advanced
once started

That's the problem it was set up in the fully retarded position but the bike will not start so that I can use the strobe light. I have spark and fuel.

 

[Jan_P]

Any starter fluid in the garage I dont like it but it is Working sometimes
Any attempts starting at all bang in exhaust or kickback
Are the Plugs wet or dry

 

[Jim]

Okay right cylinder I have 92.2 PSI and the left cylinder I have 103.1 PSI.

The compression stroke starts when the intake valve fully closes. With too small a clearance, the intake valve stays open longer... that cuts into the compression stroke. Try doing as GLJ suggested and set the intake looser, then check compression.

 

[Jim]

Okay the right cylinder at top dead center. light goes off just as f mark lines up and with slack in the right cylinder rockers. All the details are the same for the left cylinder at F mark and slack in left rockers also.

First off, the easiest way to check if you're on the compression stroke is to remove the plugs and put your thumb over the hole. When you come up on compression, it'll try to blow your thumb off the hole. Quickest easiest way I know of.

What you're describing is backwards of what's supposed to happen. When you come up on the fire mark, the points will open and the test light will come on... not go off.