So I was about to put the new roller bearing set in today, I had been debating as to whether to put in the "notch" that will allow the race to be driven out after I'm dead someday. I decided to go ahead and put it in, sure as shootin' if I didn't I'd screw up somehow and need to remove the race. Plus, karma- Dad always insisted on anti-seize "for the next guy". So, the question becomes, how? I started out with the Sawz-All, and determined quickly I couldn't control it enough. Next move is a Dremel metal grinding bit, but I still think it'll take forever (there should be 2 notches, ideally). How have other folks approached this?
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Steering bearing upgrade lower race "notch"
- Thread starter Pat D
- Start date
I used a metal file in a die grinder. Only took a few minutes to do 2 of 'em.
Also, the notch doesn't need to be as big as mine, a smaller file will work quicker. It only needs to be as wide and deep as an 1/8" (or so) punch.
Jim, got a pic of that bit? I don't think I'm familiar with a die grinder metal "file" bit. But maybe I am, just thinking of it as being called something else?
Maybe rotary file?
I’ve always heard them referred to as “burrs”
OK, I Googled it, lol. They're called a "burr", and I think I've got some, just never used them before.
Yeah, I've heard 'em called burrs before. In the airplane world we called 'em metal files or rotary files. Guess it's that dialect thing...
Carbide burrs have become much more affordable since the Chinesium stuff has flooded the market. If one decides to invest in a set, I’d recommend carbide, double cut burrs. I’ve used them in a drill before on soft matetial but a high speed die grinder would be preferred. Be sure to wear good eye protection (I usually wear a full face shield) when using these bit as the very fine shards of metal fly everywhere.
Two cents: If you don't notch, a small hole drilled at an angle in the neck will allow you to start moving the race down with a drift. 3/16" or so is plenty. One hole is enough once a crack is opened you can catch the edge with your drift. If you are OCD a hole on each side will completely remove it evenly. I no longer worry about making a notch the race is hard, you won't drill through it. A small dab of silicone wil seal from water intrusion.
For those wondering the tapered bearing race has a larger iD and doesn't protrude into the neck, offering a ledge to drift it out. Note that races and bearings are different top and bottom, keep the sets together!
For those wondering the tapered bearing race has a larger iD and doesn't protrude into the neck, offering a ledge to drift it out. Note that races and bearings are different top and bottom, keep the sets together!
Last edited:
I surely have mentioned this before, but someone may have missed it. So:
An alternative way to remove an outer bearing race, is to run a weld bead around the inside surface. Once the weld cools, it shrinks the bearing race and it just drops out, or can be removed by hand. I have mostly used 2.5 mm electrodes for this, but MIG/ MAG/ InnerShield should work as well, but access may be a bit more tricky.
An alternative way to remove an outer bearing race, is to run a weld bead around the inside surface. Once the weld cools, it shrinks the bearing race and it just drops out, or can be removed by hand. I have mostly used 2.5 mm electrodes for this, but MIG/ MAG/ InnerShield should work as well, but access may be a bit more tricky.
Good explanation of why it's done and whether you need to.
Last edited:
Didn't miss it, just don't have the skillset to manage electricity and molten metal!
