I painted that car a few years back. It's now part of the Brumos collection, Jacksonville, Fl.
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Stuff my dog says; on second thought I'll just build a race car
- Thread starter NashGTI
- Start date
Had a day completely away from work yesterday for the first time this calendar year taking my older boy out of town for a Tae Kwon Do tournament. Then followed that day off with today away as well but worked on the seat cover at the house. I've been dreading the work on that for so long I decided that for the blocks that make up the bottom and back, at least on the outside where it won't be seen, that I can just stick with stapling those seams. Those should be low stress areas of a seat that won't exactly see a ton of long term use or foul weather use anyway
So I got the blocks done not which was the part I was completely dreading. Doing those is just time consuming and it doesn't make it look any more seat like so there is low short term reward. I can move forward with it now though and cut some sew foam to add as a backing to the pleats and then attach those to the pieces of plastic to make forms for the bottom and back. I still need manifold flanges cut to proceed there.
So I got the blocks done not which was the part I was completely dreading. Doing those is just time consuming and it doesn't make it look any more seat like so there is low short term reward. I can move forward with it now though and cut some sew foam to add as a backing to the pleats and then attach those to the pieces of plastic to make forms for the bottom and back. I still need manifold flanges cut to proceed there.
More terrible MS Paint imaginings
Adding sump capacity, or damaged pan?
Capacity and baffling, plus raising the sump a touch and shortening the pickup tube correspondingly. Doing some math I have to raise the floor about a third of a quart, it'd be nice to add say an additional two quarts one way or another. Luckily I've got room on three sides of the sump to do whatever I want. Unfortunately I've got room on three sides of the sump to do whatever I want.
Last edited:
So if I don't kick out but elongate the sump forward I can add nearly three quarts of capacity. I'll have to bring the pickup forward to the new center but I was planning on modifying that anyway and the weird ass way it's made moving the screen forward is dangerously easy. The question left is one of is it better to elongate than widen and I suppose that's dependent upon the way the car is driven.
Moving the sump and pickup to the middle seems like a no brainer, in theory the oil drains back evenly front to back so the most consistent way to keep the sump full is to have it in the middle. From there though I'm not sure. Will there be more consistently high lateral or longitudinal accelerations and does the difference even matter... Also I've drawn an inclined front to the sump, should that be flat to minimalize the amount of oil trying to climb out of the sump under braking. There will clearly be a baffle to try and control that. Can the skinny bias ply tires generate enough G force in any direction to make all this anything more than a waste of time?
I have no answers to these questions and more.
Moving the sump and pickup to the middle seems like a no brainer, in theory the oil drains back evenly front to back so the most consistent way to keep the sump full is to have it in the middle. From there though I'm not sure. Will there be more consistently high lateral or longitudinal accelerations and does the difference even matter... Also I've drawn an inclined front to the sump, should that be flat to minimalize the amount of oil trying to climb out of the sump under braking. There will clearly be a baffle to try and control that. Can the skinny bias ply tires generate enough G force in any direction to make all this anything more than a waste of time?
I have no answers to these questions and more.
Got the new bottom made and the bungs welded in, need to mate the two pieces now
Got a lot done today, wish I'd have got more done yesterday. If things have worked out better yesterday I'd had probably finished today. I put a half assed paint job on it and 4 bolts to see how it looks.
Boy could not find motivation today. I got the pickup tube modified and ended up having to mess with the rear main seal cap because of a broken bolt there. Earlier before lunch I went through and zapped some spots under the floor with the MIG as well. That's it though, I thought I'd get the pan done and then regasket the front of the engine and just didn't have the work ethic to accomplish all that.
I took a main cap off to get to the seal cap easier and we much pleased with the condition of the bearing too. Also learned the upper half of the factory rubber rear main in 65 is held in an aluminum carrier which registers up in the block which is super weird to me. Also the main caps are all pinned plus the bolts which is a neat thing. Looking down there it also struck me that the rod journals are abnormally wide so a lot of bearing area there. Really the main bearings are pretty wide as well but not to the point it stands out like the rods.
I took a main cap off to get to the seal cap easier and we much pleased with the condition of the bearing too. Also learned the upper half of the factory rubber rear main in 65 is held in an aluminum carrier which registers up in the block which is super weird to me. Also the main caps are all pinned plus the bolts which is a neat thing. Looking down there it also struck me that the rod journals are abnormally wide so a lot of bearing area there. Really the main bearings are pretty wide as well but not to the point it stands out like the rods.
Today wasn't really that much better...
I did get the hinged baffle thing made but not finished.
The flaps flaps and all, but i need to cut a hole for the oil temperature sensor because I wasn't thinking when I put the adapter in the pan so the baffle assembly side is in the way. It shouldn't interfere with a flap luckily, just the baffle side. Looking up in there with an inspection cam the pickup needs raised a touch still too, it's just off the bottom without gasket thickness and I'd like something between and eighth and a quarter inch there.
I did get the oil changed in the wife and I's daily drivers so at least that's done.
I did get the hinged baffle thing made but not finished.
The flaps flaps and all, but i need to cut a hole for the oil temperature sensor because I wasn't thinking when I put the adapter in the pan so the baffle assembly side is in the way. It shouldn't interfere with a flap luckily, just the baffle side. Looking up in there with an inspection cam the pickup needs raised a touch still too, it's just off the bottom without gasket thickness and I'd like something between and eighth and a quarter inch there.
I did get the oil changed in the wife and I's daily drivers so at least that's done.
Did make this Saturday
Seat back in the car to weigh it now that the body is there
I feel like this is good, is this good? Holy crap I didn't even dare dream I could make that happen. This is with 3 gallons of fluid sitting on the hood to stand in for the missing coolant and oil plus with me sitting in the drivers seat. So in theory the helmet will add a couple pounds to the back left and the new intake and carb will add a couple pounds over the current setup to the front left. So this could get even better.
This is where it was when I first sat it on the scales so even before specifically trying to corner balance it.2
It's been 25 years since I cornerweighted a car. I remember that it was a lot of work.
This was so close to begin with it was no trouble. It's already on threaded coil overs so just drop and raise opposite corners a couple turns.
We raced a '71 510 Datsun, PITA to get to any of the shocks.
I keep saying it here at work, fenders are the devil. It's amazing how easy everything is to get to without stupid fenders in the way.
Engine apartness time. You can't replace the oil pan gasket without taking the front filler piece loose, you can't take the front filler piece off with the timing cover and motor mount plate installed.
Also found a couple whoopsies whoever had the engine apart before left me. The tight side timing chain guide was nearly off its bolts, they had the chain a tooth offend had to do that to compensate. Also the dowl pin for the cam gear wasn't really in the cam but maybe a half millimeter. There was also a bolt that is too long for its hole on the motor mount plate and a through bolt for the timing cover they over tightened and stripped the nut/bolt so that had to be cut off.
Some people amiright?
Also found a couple whoopsies whoever had the engine apart before left me. The tight side timing chain guide was nearly off its bolts, they had the chain a tooth offend had to do that to compensate. Also the dowl pin for the cam gear wasn't really in the cam but maybe a half millimeter. There was also a bolt that is too long for its hole on the motor mount plate and a through bolt for the timing cover they over tightened and stripped the nut/bolt so that had to be cut off.
Some people amiright?
Attachments
Yes, you’re right!
