Stuff my dog says; on second thought I'll just build a race car

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These have seen better days
 
Donor junk front axle housing and carrier. It had been sitting for who knows how long without fluid in it, the picture of the carrier shows it was sitting stationary with fluid for a long ass time too with the clearly visible rust/no rust line.
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Here are the internal parts I'm swapping. Needed a cross shaft, the two spider gears and their shims. They're actually in good shape, especially compared to the ones I'm taking out.
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The two ends of the cross shaft from the carrier in my axle. The spider gears ride on those sports of that shaft and there isn't pressurized lubrication to them obviously. There isn't supposed to be prolonged high speed rotation of those spider gears, when body wheels are turning the same speed those gears are completely stationary. It's only when the vehicle turns that they move at all and then there really isn't that much movement of them. However if you happen to be 12 years old and think doing a burnout with only one wheel actually turning is cool, then those spider gears are spinning twice ring and pinion RPM and quickly become unlubricated and just eat themselves alive.
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This is a comparison between the worn out cross shaft and the new one. There really wasn't visible wear on the spider gears themselves where they ride that shaft (childish snicker at that). What there was, was an enormous amount of wear on one of the shim sides of a spider gear. I'm thinking the one tire fire was a death celebration. It looks like it burned the oil out of one side and then sat hot without turning back into the oil so it rusted the back side of the gear a good bit and that shim was a total loss. Unfortunately there was also a decent bit of rust on the carrier itself where that spider gear sits. I cleaned it up with a Dremel and a Scotch brite, but not expecting miracles from it.
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Didn't take any pictures of any of the rust, you've all seen rust before. I went ahead and put the thing back together and back into the housing because if nothing else it'll last long enough to get the car built and tested. At some point I'll probably just buy a Torsen carrier and replace the whole thing but that's money better put to other things at the moment and literally all I've got in this thing to this point is a five dollar cover gasket.
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Carrier loaded back into the axle housing. At that point I replaced the pinion yoke. One slight bit of aggravation is that obviously I needed the axles out of the housing to remove the carrier, and I put them back into the housing after putting everything together. I didn't replace axle seals yet though because welding the new link perches onto the housing would just burn the seals anyway. So I'm going to have to pull the axles again to replace the seals once that's done. Not the end of the world but the kind of thing you'd rather just do once.

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So I put a little bit of gear oil into the housing to keep things from rusting back while we're working on things and sealed the cover back up. Then I worked on actual shop stuff for another three hours.
 
So with Uncle Joe sending everyone money I figured I'd go ahead and fill up a shopping cart at Summit Racing. Everything has gone up in price which isn't too big a shock, but I am shocked at the expense of gauges and sending units. Granted I'm not going with the cheapest options for things as I want them to be nice and look correct in the car, but I'm going to end up spending nearly three times what I expected just on the gauges for this thing. $1250 for gauges revises my budget a not inconsequential amount and makes me wife even less happy and understanding, I'm still hoping I can come in under ten thousand though.
 
Government money came in and it's gone now, ordered a ton of stuff. Ended up having to mix and match gauges because for some reason people don't make matched sets of Tach/Boost/AFR/Volts/Water Temp/Oil Pressure. Ended up with Stewart Warner everything but the AFR which was Autometer. I'm disappointed but the Classic Instruments stuff I realized was half cream face and half tan face. Plus side is the stuff I did order was cheaper.
Also got a clutch kit, steering column, MSD 6AL and coil, draw through carburetor, a fuel cell and pump. Ordered some metal from a different place, seamless tubing for the control and trailing arms and the stuff I need to make the transfer case stand in. Order the rear brakes and front brake pads from a third place. And the big one....I ordered the supercharger. I'm going to need a bigger garage.
 
Ended up having to mix and match gauges because for some reason people don't make matched sets of Tach/Boost/AFR/Volts/Water Temp/Oil Pressure. Ended up with Stewart Warner everything but the AFR which was Autometer. I'm disappointed but the Classic Instruments stuff I realized was half cream face and half tan face.
My guess is mix and match would be more period correct. :rolleyes:
 
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First package received from my spending spree last week. Ordered three of these, they sent this from one warehouse and the other two are coming from somewhere else. The pedal bracket which is also a Wilwood piece is apparently being shipped directly from Wilwood.
I figured I'd relay too that the place who said they had NOS rocker arms now says they're out which sucks. Suppose I should have jumped on that sooner, but had no inclination that there would be anyone else in the market for those.
 
Got more boxes today. The other two master cylinders were said to be out for delivery this morning so I was sort of half expecting them, being a Sunday I wasn't convinced it would happen. What showed up though was a handful of rear brake parts: shoes, wheel cylinders, and adjusters. Shipping is a train wreck right now and I've got stuff coming from all over the place.
 

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Stuff!!
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Other two master cylinders
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Carbon Ceramic brake pads
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Supercharger! and it's only a little bit broken. Plastic hose adapter has a couple nipples snapped off it. Hopefully it's an easy piece to find new, haven't checked yet. It spins freely, and even just turning it by hand you can feel the air being moved by it.

On the negative side of things I realized I have the wrong caliper brackets. My own fault there, I should known looking at the pictures they were wrong. I definitely should have known reading the description they were wrong since the description pointed out they were for rear calipers. So I gotta do something else there.

Oh yeah, I also got some rear axle seals in, but don't figure anyone needs a picture of those.
 
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Finally a picture of the goofy intake side of the cylinder head with the intake off. The actual intake ports are the roughly square openings, the elongated openings below and between the intake ports is coolant that goes up through the factory intake manifold. There are vacuum ports either side of the intake ports, the port on the right has a line going to the vacuum advance on the carburetor (anyone's guess why they chose to go to the port that was farther away). The pipe adapter up at the front of the head that looks like a heater hose adapter is actually another passage that goes into the coolant passage in the intake manifold and then out to the radiator, the heater hose comes off the exhaust side of the engine.

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It's really hard to hold the supercharger and get the phone far enough away to take a picture that makes much sense. The gist here though, this is ideally how I'd have the supercharger placed. Looking through things it would probably package better completely upside down but you lose the cool look of things if you do that. It requires relocating the alternator but that was already assumed to be the case. The vacuum advance line is obviously going away, manifold pressure gauge adapter going in it's place.

One of the great things about the Eaton is that the gear train is sealed so you can orient the thing however you want without worrying about it losing all it's lubrication. Just have to make sure all the associated plumbing will work, and ideally be close to equal length between the supercharger and intake ports. Barring that will have to do a log style with a good sized plenum between the ports to even out the flow. Need to get stuff built though to see exactly how much room I'll have.
 
Not sure what your are going to do to design and build the manifold for that supercharger but I would be tempted to mockup something using plywood and maybe some chunks of two by four or what ever to get a visual on how it is going to fit.

Now if your a wiz with CAD software that might be too old-school!

But that's how I designed the mounts for the sidecar I had on the old XS650 and the modified lower front mount on the first Sportster. Funny thing is after the sidecar company saw what I did they made it their design because I ran into a guy a couple years latter and he commented on my mount by saying "Oh I see you have the updated lower front mount!" I had to correct him and tell him it was actually the prototype mount! Someplace I still have the 1/4 plywood patterns I used to check the fit.
 
Haven't got there yet, the nice thing is that being as the engine is solidly mounted I can bracket off the frame to take the weight of the supercharger which will make things easier. Supercharger manifolds for generally speaking pretty simplistic too and don't seem to be subject to the same kind of harmonic tuning of a naturally aspirated engine, or at least not to the same degree. Will cross that bridge once I get to it.:thumbsup:
 
More parts in today. Also got the rear brake drums and rear brake hardware kit in but didn't see the point in taking a picture of them. Got heims in for the control arm mounts as well, but heims are heims in pictures and there is already a picture of heims. Carburetor and rear arm heims tomorrow probably?
 

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More parts today, and some wild weather. Clutch kit and draw through supercharger calibrated carburetor. I was expecting the second set of Heims since the two sets came from the same place and were shipped on the same day but that didn't happen for whatever reason. Areas of town had 60mph wind gusts this afternoon and golf ball sized hail. No damage where I haunt but quite a bit down in East Nashville near where the tornado tore things up last year. We had quarter sized hail at the shop.
 

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Getting started on the transfer case bypass today after getting the metal yesterday. 5 inches of 6 inch outer diameter .250 wall seamless pipe for the extension and then .375" plate for the front and back flanges.
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12"x12" piece for the back flange even though I only need a 6" diameter circle because that's the smallest piece I was allowed to buy. So I took the gasket I bought a while back and scribed the inside and outside edges of it, the drilled hole is a starting place for the plasma cutter to knock the inside circle out.
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There is the back flange rough cut with a little bit of cleanup on the edges.
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Took my piece of pipe back to the lathe, dial indicator to make sure it's square enough to start machining material off it. Was able to get it down to .008" of wobble and felt like that was more than straight enough to start cutting.
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My piece of pipe was actually still not quite large enough on the inside to clear the bolts from the output housing so I opened the pipe up a bit on the inside. I also machined the end of the pipe as true as the situation allowed so that I could weld the back side flange as a cap and have it straight enough to no affect the driveline angle much.
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Inside of the pipe machined out enough that the output housing bolts can live happily inside.
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Had tacked the flange to the pipe and started truing everything up. Went ahead and checked the face, everything seemed pretty straight still. I had pulled some material off the opening at this point but it still needed a decent bit of work.
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After getting the edges cut down to something closer to flush I finish welded the cap onto the pipe. I haven't done anything with the TIG in months so I was plenty happy with this. After getting it welded on and giving it a good long cool down period it went back onto the lathe. Surprisingly it barely warped and getting the face back flat was a dawdle. It took a bit but I eventually got the inside cut enough that the output housing is a nice tight slip fit. There shouldn't be any need for that kind of precision on this piece, it's not like there will be any real side loading or twist force on the housing.
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The piece is done now, got the mounting holes drilled and tapped and everything. It'll need to be cut to length eventually but I need the front flange made first.
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And there is the extent of my progress on the front flange. I've got another larger piece of .375" steel and that's the gasket that goes between the transfer case and transmission. Got one hole partially drilled and that's it. Getting the other piece done took five hours of the Sunday and I was got doing actual for pay work part of Saturday and I figured I'd be in trouble with the missus if I stayed out any longer.
 

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