Sump oil leak?

[Djfknwoo]

Hey guys I've tried searching the forum about this issue and I have a couple questions. I just got my bike running and I'm finding after it's parked i have a few drips of oil coming off either the sump bolts or from the 2 acorn nuts from the bottom of the engine.

I'm pretty sure it's not from the sprocket or the starter gear cover as the only place I see the oil coming from is below. There is normally just a couple droplets after it's been run.

A bit of information about my bike is when I changed the sump filter I had my torque wrench set wrong and might of over torqued one of the bolts but I'm not entirely sure as I noticed pretty quick and the bolts never snapped (stock bolts) and the treads on the engine seem to be okay as the bolts still go on snug and don't just spin. I have installed a new sump filter and gasket and new crush washers. Does anyone know what it could be or if I should take the sump back off and potentially look for the raised aluminum around the threads? Or if I should add grease to either side of the sump gasket and if so what grease would be recommended?

Thank you all in advance

 

[Its been a long time]

There's copper washers under the acorn nuts on the underside of the crankcase. I had to fit new ones due to drops of oil forming on the end of the acorn nuts.

 

[jetmechmarty]

Yes, replace or anneal the copper washers. I recently made the screw-up myself. Make sure the sump cover and the mating surface is completely free of old gasket material. Mine was leaking from the back side and dripping from the acorn nuts.

 

[Djfknwoo]

There's copper washers under the acorn nuts on the underside of the crankcase. I had to fit new ones due to drops of oil forming on the end of the acorn nuts.

Just changed those out thank you

 

[Djfknwoo]

Yes, replace or anneal the copper washers. I recently made the screw-up myself. Make sure the sump cover and the mating surface is completely free of old gasket material. Mine was leaking from the back side and dripping from the acorn nuts.

That's the next thing I'll check. What about me stripping the threads do you guys think they are okay based on the bolt not snapping like it was designed to do?

 

[Niels B]

What do you mean by snapping? You should know if the tread is stripped as you wouldn’t be able to tighten it. Do you self a favor and use a torque wrench so you can tighten to recommended torque.

 

[Djfknwoo]

What do you mean by snapping? You should know if the tread is stripped as you wouldn’t be able to tighten it. Do you self a favor and use a torque wrench so you can tighten to recommended torque.

I read on here that the sump bolts are designed to snap if they are over torqued and mine didn't. They will still torque down to the 7.2 ft lbs so I think im okay and didn't strip the threads in the lower case

 

[zrx1100]

Those acorn nuts are the lowest point and collect oil from other leaky places. Since you did not touch them, if I understand you correctly, I suspect the sump screen gasket.

 

[gggGary]

That's the next thing I'll check. What about me stripping the threads do you guys think they are okay based on the bolt not snapping like it was designed to do?

I always hesitate to say this.
Doesn't hurt to use a fine flat file and check for a raised surface around the bolt holes both sump and cover. a small slight raised ring around the bolts is what you'll usually see.
OK: Yah can't just saw away with a file here!
The file must be sitting flat on the flange no angling or biasing which is going to round edges and fuch the flatness of the flange, a bit of paint thinner or other light solvent helps with chip build up. You are carefully and constantly checking for any bright (high areas) on the flange, work just enough to bring those down flush. Practice first on the cover it's easier to see and watch how it should work. Light finger pressure on the back of the file, sliding it across flange changing to stroke in several directions. Do NOT use the file handle. Some wet or dry on a FLAT backer will work also.
a NEW 8" synthetic stone will work also.
But most of the time oil is from these:

push rod seal and loose sprocket are #1 and #2

 

[Djfknwoo]

I always hesitate to say this.
Doesn't hurt to use a fine flat file and check for a raised surface around the bolt holes both sump and cover. a small slight raised ring around the bolts is what you'll usually see.
OK: Yah can't just saw away with a file here!
The file must be sitting flat on the flange no angling or biasing which is going to round edges and fuch the flatness of the flange, a bit of paint thinner or other light solvent helps with chip build up. You are carefully and constantly checking for any bright (high areas) on the flange, work just enough to bring those down flush. Practice first on the cover it's easier to see and watch how it should work. Light finger pressure on the back of the file, sliding it across flange changing to stroke in several directions. Do NOT use the file handle. Some wet or dry on a FLAT backer will work also.
a NEW 8" synthetic stone will work also.
But most of the time oil is from these:
View attachment 347113
push rod seal and loose sprocket are #1 and #2

I removed the left cover and checked to see if I had any oil running down from those locations and they were bone dry. I'm almost certain it's from the sump itself and will be taking the cover off this weekend to check for high spots around the bolt holes on both the cover and engine side. If I see any I'll use a file very carefully and make sure not to round any of the edges. I'll also install another new gasket (the new one i have may be an issue?) Just to be safe. Thank you very much for the detailed reply I appreciate it alot.

 

[Jim]

I always hesitate to say this.
Doesn't hurt to use a fine flat file and check for a raised surface around the bolt holes both sump and cover. a small slight raised ring around the bolts is what you'll usually see.
OK: Yah can't just saw away with a file here!
The file must be sitting flat on the flange no angling or biasing which is going to round edges and fuch the flatness of the flange, a bit of paint thinner or other light solvent helps with chip build up. You are carefully and constantly checking for any bright (high areas) on the flange, work just enough to bring those down flush. Practice first on the cover it's easier to see and watch how it should work. Light finger pressure on the back of the file, sliding it across flange changing to stroke in several directions. Do NOT use the file handle. Some wet or dry on a FLAT backer will work also.
a NEW 8" synthetic stone will work also.

+1 on that. I'll just add that a wide tip black or blue sharpie is about the cheapest machinist dye you'll ever find. Darken the mating surfaces and you'll have a visual guide on what the file is doin'.

 

[jetmechmarty]

Doesn't hurt to use a fine flat file and check for a raised surface around the bolt holes both sump and cover. a small slight raised ring around the bolts is what you'll usually see.

I did precisely what you said but used a stone.

 

[Djfknwoo]

I did precisely what you said but used a stone.

I'll order a stone is there any you'd recommend?

 

[jetmechmarty]

I'll order a stone is there any you'd recommend?

I don’t know where I got mine. It’s just a piece of coarse knife sharpening stone.

 

[gggGary]

 

[jetmechmarty]

View attachment 347125

Yes. What’s in my toolbox is a piece broken off of that as if it were broken into four pieces. I think It’s more versatile than the big piece.

 

[5twins]

Although 7.2 ft/lbs is a legitimate value for M6 fasteners, we're dealing with 40+ year old machines here and going into alloy, so I use less. For years I used 80 in/lbs and it worked fine. Things sealed up fine and nothing ever came loose. But I've started using even less now, about 72 in/lbs (6 ft/lbs). So far this lesser amount is working fine as well, no leaks or things coming loose. And if you don't have a small in/lb torque wrench, I highly recommend you get one. I use it the most out of all mine.