Tachometer Cable - Crankcase End Fitting

YL82

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Pictured are three tach cables showing the crankcase ends. The 2 outer ones with male fittings are off my two '76C's and the middle one is a new OEM tach cable (447-83560-01-00) with a female fitting. My goal is to replace one of the old stock cables.

Can the male threaded end of the stock cable simply be unscrewed from the cable and installed on the new cable?

Do I have the wrong part? At some point, did Yamaha change change the part, but not the number? Do I just need to buy a threaded fitting to connect the new cable to the fitting on the crankcase?

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I bought a 447 cable for my 72 and found it was 1.5" too short and also the threaded part on the old cable was not remove able so I had to make do with a repair on the old one.
I don't think the cable in the middle is going to fit your bike.
 
I'll have to agree with you, yellowdog. Neither of my stock cables are damaged, just old, so I'll just clean em' up and use them.
 
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It appears you have the newer style which started being used in about '74. That threaded sleeve should come out of the cable and should be screwed tightly enough into the fitting in the case so it stays there. There is a screwdriver (or flat bar) slot on top of the threaded sleeve so you can screw it in .....

TachDrive.jpg


Here's a link to the '73 diagram that shows both the old and new style drives .....

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1973/TX650/TACHOMETER GEAR/parts.html
 
5twins,

Thanks, kindly!! I appreciate your research and time on this to solve my mystery.

Using pliers to hold the outer section, I put a wrench on the threaded section (not enough to damage threads) and tried to unscrew it. Didn't budge. Knowing that it CAN be removed is vital information. I had just assumed that it was a 1-piece deal.

I had pulled up the parts diagram for the meters/cables, but not the tach gear....

I haven't measured the threads, but I may try a big ass metric nut with left-handed threads to remove the sleeve - unless of course you have a better suggestion.

Thanks again!
 
It may be rusted to the knurled cable end. It's just a hollow threaded sleeve. Maybe some soaking in penetrating oil then the right size EZ-out will break it free. A little heat (heat gun) may help as well.
 
It's weird that you have two of these where the insert came out. Since you only need the insert I would just hold it in a stove flame for a few seconds. I would use my trusty minivicegrips with a piece of thick leather on the threads. Similar kind of thing on the knurled part.
 
Thanks for the ideas!

I'll report back on results and effective removal methods - busy drinking beer at the moment.

:cheers:
 
Other alternatives (see image).

I noticed that one eBay seller also had NOS tach adapters (256-17848-00).
 

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^It's likely available through dealers as well. You have two of them though (If not more :)). Would be a shame not to use those. Seriously, it should be pretty easy to get it out, especially since you don't need the cable it's on.

Heat will work wonders - it just sort of turns whatever is holding the thing to ash.
 
Thus far I haven't had much time to devote to removing the inserts aside from soaking them both in PBBlaster. I will definetely try heating them and I do have some diamond wheel Dremel bits as well for the Final Solution. I like the leather idea too, which I will try first. Those fuckers will be coming out one way or another. Just need time....
 
I was thinking a minipipewrench on the knurled part will be a good companion to the leather and minivicegrips on the threads. Gettin fancy though.
 
Using any kind of monkey wrench or grip pliers on the thread will damage it. using leather may work but a pipe or monkey wrench has to grip the threads to work, May get away with a thread file to clean up the damage...........

find a nut that will screw onto the thread. Cut it in half, clean up the threads, then use them as a lock nut then remove the barrel. No damage
 
Both adapters were successfully removed with minimal thread damage. Both can be used with new cables.

I used a Wagner Heat Gun (high setting) for 5 minutes or so per cable. To protect the threads, I used a semicircular copper bracket that I have supply of. Brass was recommended to me as it softer, but I didn't have any.

I did use two pairs of pliers to hold the outer fitting and the protected threaded adapter.

Heating was the key as both broke loose without a great deal of effort. Despite a tight grip on both of the outer portions with pliers, they were not noticeable distorted (out of round) like I thought they might be.

Aside from the judicious use of heat, I'm not necessarily advocating the method I used.
 

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I would anti-seize the heck out of that threaded collar (the whole length) so this doesn't happen again. Your tach drive rod looks rather rusty too in one of the above pics. You should take care of all that. To insure a leak-free install, replace the o-ring on the sleeve and the little seal inside it that the rod spins in. I can send you some o-rings if you like. They're not red silicone like the originals but seem to work fine. I think yours may already have been replaced from the looks of it. It's not a red silicone one.
 
If you didn't take the special precaution when you took the part with the o-ring out, then it's important for you to take the case cover off now. If you don't know what special precaution I mean then you didn't take it :)

I used a black o-ring from napa, which lasted about a year and a half. The red ones are available from some dealers. But you can't beat free. Unless you're in a hurry, replace the little seal too, while you have that part out. Mike's has it, prob. dealers do too.
 
That's a good idea, 5twins.

Yes, that tach drive rod looks like Ass. You don't know the 1/2 of it. The more I tear into my latest '76C, the more I'm finding that its in deplorable condition. I've already posted a few pics on the thread entitled Carnage from Previous Owners or something like that. The attached image doesn't have jack-shit to do with tach cables, but....

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I may take you up on your gracious offer of o-rings. Let me check to see what I have first and I'll PM you.
 
If you didn't take the special precaution when you took the part with the o-ring out, then it's important for you to take the case cover off now. If you don't know what special precaution I mean then you didn't take it :)

YL76, Instead of a smart arse answer that confuses more than helps, i will clarify in-case the problem has arisen

When you took Part 1 out, there is a good chance part 7 got lifted and part 8 slips off part 7 and falls into the side case. Very important and needs to be checked
 
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