Take a look at my basket case engine

[fox23]

Hey Guys, I need a little help with these engine parts I picked up quite a while ago. The PO never claimed it was a complete engine, so its missing quite a few parts but most of the basics are there. I just have a few questions regarding condition and compatibility, just looking for some direction on what to look for to help ID what year these parts came from. I can get more pictures of anything if required. Thanks for taking the time to have a look, it is much appreciated!

1. engine cases are a 5V4 number, so from an 81-82.
2. crank/rods weren't installed in the cases, one of the bearings (alt side) seems a little rough but otherwise the rest looks ok. the rods are stamped 447 but were they ever changed through the model run/can they be ran with these cases?
3. the cylinders seem like they used to be black and someone has done a half assed bead blast job on them. any way to tell for sure what year they are? or does it not matter/were they ever changed through the model run?
4. starter gear cover and sump plate are NOT black, so I'm assuming not originally from the 5V4 cases I have, any issue with using these with the cases I have?
5. the head and rocker box cover are NOT black (but stamped numbers do match), so also assuming they are not originally from the 5V4 cases, were they ever changed in the model run/can they be ran on these cases/cylinders?
6. cam shaft, I actually have 3 but this one pictured below is the one that to me looked to be in the best shape. It's a 447 camshaft as per the markings on it, the other two have no markings on them. Can it be ran with this head/rocker box cover?
7. transmission gears were installed in the 5V4 cases when I got them, but that doesn't mean they were from there originally. They also look to be pretty worn, is there anything worth saving about these gears?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Just off the top of my head, I'd say that those parts are compatible. The Trans looks like the 77-on version, but the tensioner looks like the straight body mid-run type 'C'.

Of course, the real inspection is done with the service manual and a micrometer...

 

[azman857]

On the tranny gears, as long a the engagement dogs and matching holes are not bent, cracked or badly worn I'd use em. Also check that the gears are not too loose on the shafts. Bearings should be not sloppy.

 

[XSLeo]

The early engines were the 256 series. They were used from 70 -73, In 74 they did a reconfigure of the engine to the 447 series. This same series was used till the end of the XS650.
In Europe they had a 533 series engine. It was very similar to the 447 but used longer rods and shorter pistons.
All you parts appear to be 447 parts.
They did some changes over the years but mostly external. The cam chain adjuster went through several changes. On the 447 engines they changed the angle of the adjuster screw. They changed the cap style, From the earlier long cover to a shorter cover, they also tried it with and without a lock nut. I'll post a chart on these. If you look at the chart you will se yours has the short cover with no lock nut. The type D used 76-79.
They also changed the breather housing. Early two hose, later one hose. You have the later one hose on your head.
On the tranny, they changed the way the gears rode on the shafts. I'll post a chart.
Leo

 

[5twins]

The 447 cams were all the same as far as the lobes go but '74-'79 versions will have bushings pressed into the ends to support the advance rod. '80 and newer cams won't have the bushings. If you're going to use a Pamco ignition, it utilizes the advance rod to mount the Pamco rotor so you'll need the bushings. You can add them to a later cam but if you had an earlier one with them already installed, that would be easier. The bushings are easy to see just by looking in the ends of the cam. The outer one on each end will have grooves in its I.D. to retain grease .....

That cam chain tensioner is difficult to I.D. without seeing the rest of its parts. The housing, acorn cap nut, and adjuster screw were the same on the D and E types. The E type has a longer plunger with a thicker head and the addition of a lock nut w/ copper sealing washer. Other than that, it uses the same parts as the type D.

 

[fox23]

Thanks everyone for the replies. Glad to hear that it all can be meshed together into hopefully one working engine. As far as the tensioner goes, since half of it is missing I will probably search out a complete new one. I checked all of the cams I have and none of them have bushings in place for the advance rod. The trans gears seem to be the "new type" as per the sheet Leo posted up.

 

[5twins]

Complete tensioner assemblies are pretty readily available for under $20 if you keep searching. Go for the later E type with lock nut and longer plunger. Obviously, the D type was a failed experiment by Yamaha. All earlier assemblies had a lock nut and they returned to using one on the E type. With no lock nut, there's no way to know if final tightening of the acorn cap nut is changing your tension setting.

 

[fox23]

Yea i've been searching a little bit already and even found a few on eBay. I just finished assembling an engine with an E-type tensioner so I'll probably try and grab one of those since I'm already familiar with them.

 

[5twins]

I just scored one a few weeks ago for $16, so the deals are out there if you're not in a hurry.