TCI issues? Gonzo? what to do?

DB90

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In search of a working TCI Box.

Went to wire my bike up this weekend and I am getting no spark. Tested the coil. Only thing I can thing of is the TCI.
 
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ohm out the pickups?
Did you weld on the bike with the TCI still installed?
was it working before the wiring?



TCI wiring.png

unplug the pickup connector 650 to 700 ohms either gray or orange to black. If it's not check wires near the sprocket for breaks.
TCI pickup measure.JPG

Is the battery charged?
An 8 wire pick up is plug and play to your 6 wire connector you may neeed to trim a bit of plastic off the connector
tCI wiring detail.jpg
 
ohm out the pickups?
Did you weld on the bike with the TCI still installed?
was it working before the wiring?



View attachment 218662
unplug the pickup connector 650 to 700 ohms either gray or orange to black. If it's not check wires near the sprocket for breaks.
View attachment 218663
Is the battery charged?
An 8 wire pick up is plug and play to your 6 wire connector you may neeed to trim a bit of plastic off the connector
View attachment 218661

I tested the coil and it gave me a 4 ohm reading.

I didn't do any welding on the frame with the TCI connected and it ran beautifully before I tore it down. I also just checked the pick up coil and it gave me multiple different readings but the final one.i got was 746 across the orange wire and 733 on the grey.

I haven't dug into the TCI itself yet, I was really just trying to do some presumptive hunting for one just in case it turns out to be that.

I'll do some more testing later tonight when I'm home from work.
 
Must be 6 PIN.
No, a later 8 pin will also work. You can get a new 6 pin connector for it or you can use the one off the old one. The extra (7th) wire is the sidestand kill switch. Cut it off and use the 6 pin connector.
 
No, a later 8 pin will also work. You can get a new 6 pin connector for it or you can use the one off the old one. The extra (7th) wire is the sidestand kill switch. Cut it off and use the 6 pin connector.
Thank you! I wasn't aware that they were interchangeable like that!
 
and it gave me multiple different readings but
If by multiple you mean it was jumping all over, it's possible a wire has broke where it enters the molded case. Wiggle it one way and it's open... wiggle it the other way and it reads good. I have one just like that. I've thought about cutting into the plastic and see if I can save it, but haven't tried yet.
 
If by multiple you mean it was jumping all over, it's possible a wire has broke where it enters the molded case. Wiggle it one way and it's open... wiggle it the other way and it reads good. I have one just like that. I've thought about cutting into the plastic and see if I can save it, but haven't tried yet.
I gave it a few good tests and the orange jumped from 716 to 746 and the grey stayed right around 733
 
You do have a rotor that has the magnet for the pickups?
Yes I do. It's the stock rotor. The bike was running perfect when I tore it down 2 years ago. All the parts have been hanging out in a box in my garage until now. The brushes, pickup and rotor never left the engine.

I'm thinking it's either something super simple in the wiring that I'm missing or the TCI box. Could be the coil but it seems to be testing within the right range, or very close to it.
 
@gggGary @Jim

Probably a very dumb question but if by chance my motor itself isn't getting proper ground through the frame then would that cause no spark?? I'm just trying to think of the possibilities until I can actually get home and get hands on.
 
The coil has a floating secondary. So no, it only needs the plugs grounded to each other through the engine.
The pickup has it's own center tapped ground... so at least "theoretically", engine grounds shouldn't be a problem. :cautious:
You will need a good frame to engine ground if you want the alternator to work however.
 
The coil has a floating secondary. So no, it only needs the plugs grounded to each other through the engine.
The pickup has it's own center tapped ground... so at least theoretically, engine grounds shouldn't be a problem.
You will need a good frame to engine ground if you want the alternator to work however.
Ah Ha! That may be where my issue is. The frame is freshly painted and clear coated with 2k clear (pretty heavily around the motor mounts). I never sanded off a spot on the motor mounts.

I will send off some paint on the front motor mount and see if that helps at all.
 
Ah Ha! That may be where my issue is. The frame is freshly painted and clear coated with 2k clear (pretty heavily around the motor mounts). I never sanded off a spot on the motor mounts.

I will send off some paint on the front motor mount and see if that helps at all.
Also I have a Rick's regulator. Does that need grounded to the frame?? I've read mixed opinions.
 
So I fiddled with it more. Made a solid engine to frame grounding point. Added proper connectors to the ends of some wires. Tried a couple different batteries, put in new plugs.

Still zero spark:umm:

I'm starting to lean towards a bad TCI or bad coil.

However I don't think I have properly tested the coil. Everything I've read on here about testing the coil confuses the hell outta me :doh:

Just to be clear on what I'm working with.

1980 with all stock ignition besides the regulator that I swapped out for a Rick's.

I am using the TC Bros wiring harness and a 4 position key switch.

I am only trying to get it started. I haven't wired any lights in or anything yet.

Here's a pic of the bike :)
 

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