The latest coil out da box was bout 4.7 ohm on the primary. Bad box was my initial thought when the second coil shit. I bought another new GN ignitor and coil and boom third coil cooked. The strangest part is that the first coil lasted for several test rides and suddenly shit...however looking back i put a new replacement reg/rec on..... the oem one was bad and was proved to be causing a mid range sputter as i previously posted about in here. Is there a chance that the replacement reg/rec could be causing coil failures? Unfortunately i have not been able to get a multimeter on during the short periods of run time.
Again no expert ..But I do know and suspect it to be an issue in some of the problems with the Gonzo project
as well as with other electronic ignitions
When it comes to electronic ignition there is a Quantitative aspect if to high or to low Voltage there is problems
8 V wont make the bike fire 15 V can also cause problems
But the problem with controller ( Computer ) ignitions can be a Qualitative aspect
Inside the boxes there are small on chip computers that are operating with ridiculously low currents at
ridiculously short time intervals / periods
There are Design considerations .In those electronic designs
Words like separated ground and signal planes Decoupling of components .
Radio transmitted signals with wiring as antennas .. and Circuit boards as antennas.
So a box from a working setup ..might not work in another installation according to these well known issues.
And requires as I understands some testing
So a regulator / rectifier can of course insert current spikes into the wiring ( As well as Over voltage ) that can affect that controller in the ignition.
We had a dutch gentleman that had a central ground point on the bike as he had been doing on Commercial trucks. State of the art..
Contrary to a separate ground as per recommendation sometimes with controllers . Separating ground via en extra wire made that bike run
Most likely not because the Quantitative aspect but by the Qualitative the central ground point had all that ripple and spikes that the sensitive controller could not make sense off.
As Rusty Pyles put it ..There are some tweaking and Know how ..experience needed to adapt other parts into an existing one
In this case a wiring designed pretty much before any Controller even was on a drawing board.Most of them with no electronics at all to begin with.
I am no expert but I was contemplating designing and programming my own ignition but these aspects seemed to dangerous and time Consuming.
Shielding / Separating / Decoupling seems to be the Keywords.
Again I am mo expert there are those that knows more .here I suppose
But I do know that a separate ground wire .Have solved problems on my Boyer setup as well as on more than Half a Dozen bikes last 6 months
Unknown to me if it was a Quantitative aspect --- or Qualitative
I just appears to be a solution.
Finally I have not done the read up But why not consider pulling separate + and - outside the harness to the ignition setup with a switch so it can be turned
off
Correct 12 V and correct ground and away from the rest of the " Ripple " so to speak
And of course the right things on the secondary side
