Testing Regulator/Rectifier

unfinished_projects

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My brother-in-law bought a basket case of parts a few weeks that included a new, in the box, combined regulator/rectifier from Electrosport, ESR350. Instructions still included says it for the older XS with points ignition.

I have a 78, with a Pamco, can I use it?

Here's the kicker, box had bad water damage so I don't know if it even works. Should I test all the plugs and connections with a voltmeter? I am not sure which wires I need to test and what kind of resistance I should be seeing. Two plugs, one has 3 white, 1 red and 1 black and the other has only 1 green and 1 brown.

Thanks for any advice.
 
unfinished...,

The PAMCO will work with any regulator / rectifier that is working properly. If this regulator is made for the XS650, then no problem.

If the regulator / rectifier is a sealed unit, then it should not be affected by a little bit of wetness.

1. Electronic voltage regulators are difficult to test except by actually running the engine with the regulator connected.
2. Try that with a voltmeter connected to the battery even before you start the engine.
3. Check for no more than 15 Volts @ 3,000 RPM after the battery has completely regained its charge after starting.
4. A regulator should work with a low current load as well, so do the same test with the headlight disconnected or turned off.
5. If the voltage starts to creep above 15 Volts, shut the engine off immediately to avoid frying anything electrical or boiling the battery.
6. Should have said this first...make sure you have a 10 Amp fuse installed going to the regulator from the ignition switch and a 20 amp fuse in the output of the rectifier going to the battery.
 
unfinished...,

The PAMCO will work with any regulator / rectifier that is working properly. If this regulator is made for the XS650, then no problem.

If the regulator / rectifier is a sealed unit, then it should not be affected by a little bit of wetness.

1. Electronic voltage regulators are difficult to test except by actually running the engine with the regulator connected.
2. Try that with a voltmeter connected to the battery even before you start the engine.
3. Check for no more than 15 Volts @ 3,000 RPM after the battery has completely regained its charge after starting.
4. A regulator should work with a low current load as well, so do the same test with the headlight disconnected or turned off.
5. If the voltage starts to creep above 15 Volts, shut the engine off immediately to avoid frying anything electrical or boiling the battery.
6. Should have said this first...make sure you have a 10 Amp fuse installed going to the regulator from the ignition switch and a 20 amp fuse in the output of the rectifier going to the battery.

------------------------------------

Hey Mr. Pamco sir,

I have your ignition system with the EAdvance installed on my '81 heritage special and im having a bit of trouble with my charging system similar to this post. I followed Curly's charging system troubleshooting guide and got these results.

"3. On the solid state regulator models all you need to do is locate the green wire at the regulator plug and make a jump from it to ground. That bypasses the regulator and allows full battery current to flow through the brushes out of the rotor through the green wire to ground. That causes the rotor to make a stronger magnetic field which in turn causes more current to flow in the stator. If your battery terminal charge voltage jumps up to 14.5VDC when you rev the engine then the regulator or the ground connection for the regulator is your problem."

Across battery terminals:
Key-off - 12.3v
Key-on - 11.8v
Idle - 12.4v
3k RPM - 12.8v
3k Green wire on regulator jumped to ground - started off at 13.5v and built up to 16.5v so I killed it

I don't think its the ground to the regulator. Any way of checking the functionality of the regulator before replacing it. If i need to replace it, any advice on what to replace it with? Im considering swapping over to a permanent magnet system. Might have cooked the regulator as it did not have good airflow where it was mounted.

I think that it might be related but my blinker is also behaving strangely.
- Bike off with a fully charged battery blinker works fine
- Beginning of a ride with a fully charged battery blinker works fine
- After a bit of riding, I might get one or a few blinks and then the flashing unit no longer triggers
- At high RPM I might get a few solid blinks but as a slow the RPM the blinker will go but then if a pull in the clutch the blinking will come back
- After a bit more riding, the blinker does not function at all
- Even if the flashing unit is not operating, pressing the blinker cancelation bottom will cause a single "click" of the flasher unit
 
So you proved the alternator and diodes are fine, the voltage regulator has failed. A quality replacement should have you back in business. Cheap regulators are no bargain, they often fail quickly.
 
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