Thanks to the Forum

yamimoto

All torque no action!
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Because of the forum I have successfully, among many other things, rewired my 75 (below) using a posted simplified wiring diagram by Jayal and input from others' posts. It was something I wanted to do for a long time. Recently, I started having arcing issues with the points, replaced them with new OEM points which did not resolve the issue. I decided then that it was time to rewire the bike. It now starts instantly, runs really well and is charging as it should. Replacing the original ignition switch was very helpful, it had high resistance and was causing the voltage to drop and was missing the keyslot anyway, you could use anything to turn it. Replaced the coils with original types, caps and wires, replaced the rectifier with a $20.00 amazon special and the regulator with a VR115. Replaced the original stator & rotor with a newer used spare I had on hand, All new soldered bullet connectors, LED tail and turn signals. Next project is converting turn signals to stop, tail, turn using 1157 LED. On that note, I also replaced the flasher unit to use with the LED turn signal bulbs. Interestingly, it works fine on the battery only but when the bike is running, the activated signal flashes randomly and at different speeds. At first I thought I'd attempt to fix it but have since reconsidered with the thought that this is much more attention getting than just a normal flashing signal. I also ordered and just recieved a "SparkBright" to monitor the charging system. I have not yet installed it as I want to replace the mini speedo with XS instruments and a somewhat customized dash.

Many thanks to all who contribute to the forum. This is such a great place.

75 XS Gold.jpg
 
Because of the forum I have successfully, among many other things, rewired my 75 (below) using a posted simplified wiring diagram by Jayal and input from others' posts. It was something I wanted to do for a long time. Recently, I started having arcing issues with the points, replaced them with new OEM points which did not resolve the issue. I decided then that it was time to rewire the bike. It now starts instantly, runs really well and is charging as it should. Replacing the original ignition switch was very helpful, it had high resistance and was causing the voltage to drop and was missing the keyslot anyway, you could use anything to turn it. Replaced the coils with original types, caps and wires, replaced the rectifier with a $20.00 amazon special and the regulator with a VR115. Replaced the original stator & rotor with a newer used spare I had on hand, All new soldered bullet connectors, LED tail and turn signals. Next project is converting turn signals to stop, tail, turn using 1157 LED. On that note, I also replaced the flasher unit to use with the LED turn signal bulbs. Interestingly, it works fine on the battery only but when the bike is running, the activated signal flashes randomly and at different speeds. At first I thought I'd attempt to fix it but have since reconsidered with the thought that this is much more attention getting than just a normal flashing signal. I also ordered and just recieved a "SparkBright" to monitor the charging system. I have not yet installed it as I want to replace the mini speedo with XS instruments and a somewhat customized dash.

Many thanks to all who contribute to the forum. This is such a great place.

View attachment 173665

Bike came out great! Congratulations :cheers:
 
Thanks for the comments.
Yes, I also replaced the condensers with after market car condensers, 2 of, can't remember exactly which but I have the information (which I got here) if anyone needs it. They were only $6.00 each from Carquest. You may be able to see them in the picture, they are just behind the front amber side reflector.
Can't wait to get into the next phase.
 
Just been researching flasher relays for LEDs, one supplier mentions that the ignition system can interfere with the relay. Your bike is very nice.
 

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Thank you Rasputin. It's interesting that you say that, I have wondered if it's an ignition emf (?) because of the irratic way the signals "flash"? it might be good at night with the right music.
 
If you're not using them, maybe 5K ohm spark plug caps will clear up the issue.
 
Thanks 5Twins. I used to run the 5K caps but I am not currently because I thought I read somewhere on here that if you are running points ignition you're better off not using them? What do you think?
 
Well, non-resistor plug caps may give you a bit better and stronger spark with points and the wimpy stock coils, but if you're getting interference with the turn signals, you may have no choice but to use resistor caps. The stock bike always had them so I suppose they don't hurt the spark that much. The stock caps were even higher resistance too, some oddball amount like 9K ohms or something. NGK 5K ohm caps might be a nice compromise, enough resistance to quell the turn signal issue but less than the original caps.
 
But if you have resistor caps do not combine them with resistor plugs. One or the other.
 
No resistor plugs either but thanks for mentioning it. I'll give the 5K caps a try per 5twins suggestion and see how it goes. Will update with results. Thanks again.
 
Thanks Downeaster. You might not love the seat after you've been on it for a while. It's not stuffed with high grade foam or gel. I'm currently remodeling another cafe seat pan for the bike, it fits original hinges and lock mechanism and is somewhat wider and longer, it should be much more comfortable. I will likely also be changing the tank back to an original tank instead of the current "Special" tank. Have to see how everything looks together? The original tank needs to be repainted. A couple of years ago during winter the bike ended up on it's side in a storage garage and I didn't know for sometime after. The gas leaked out the top of the tank and ruined the paint on that tank so it needs new paint. I'm hoping to get to that this year, time will tell. How it ended up on it's side is a bit of a mystery, nobody had access to the garage so my theory is the front tire went flat and changed the angle of the bike on the side stand and over it went but I'll never know. On that note, has anyone ever modified their side stand. I don't like how far over the bike leans on it. My intention is to either lengthen it or make it adjustable.
Lakeview, I'm not yet sure if I have resistor plugs on hand but I know I have the 5K caps so I'll likely try that first. FYI, I'm in Huron County so likely not far from you.
 
Yes, I've modded the sidestands on both of mine. After installing longer than stock rear shocks, the bikes leaned over too far. The Special actually leaned over almost too much when it was stock, don't know why, bent stand maybe? Anyway, the mods I did were simple and consisted of nothing more than welding some pieces of plate to the bottom of the foot .....

ysS4Ymj.jpg


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I have an assortment of scrap steel plate in various thicknesses (1/4, 3/8, 1/2). I stack a few under the stand and determine just how much I need, then cut proper pieces (just slightly larger than the foot) and weld them on. Then I grind it all down smooth and I think they come out quite nicely.
 
Thanks 5twins. That looks really good and is easy, best kind of fix. I have the same tall shock situation and RaceTech straight springs on the front which have raised the bike significantly. In the garage there is a chunk of 2" x 4" with a piece of 3/4" plywood attached to the top of it (total 2 1/4") under the foot of the stand. That's too straight up for anywhere but the garage. When riding I carry a 2" square piece of 3/4" plywood with me and often place that under the foot when I park. I think for a permenant addition to the foot I'd go with something about that thick.
What's the most material you've added to a foot?
 
Probably about the same, about 3/4". On my '78, I ended up adding another 1/4" to it later as it still leaned a bit much. Or maybe because I changed shocks again? The 2nd pair of aftermarket shocks I think were a bit longer than the 1st pair I was running. I originally "fixed" the stand while the shorter 1st pair was on there.
 
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