We want to see your project progress HERE!
... we're not brand-biased. I'll speak for myself but a good build thread seems to be welcomed and of interest in the readership at large.
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The Norda
- Thread starter Ratranger
- Start date
... we're not brand-biased. I'll speak for myself but a good build thread seems to be welcomed and of interest in the readership at large.We're even interested in following aircraft builds, like @Jim's!
Great minds, was just checking Jim's engine progress and wuz think'n exact same.
Reminds me a lot of my air-cooled VW builds, looks very similar
Small aircraft engines haven't changed much since the air cooled VWs were in production. I remember seing kits to convert VW engines for homebuilt aircraft. I mean most small planes are running flat4 or flat6 air cooled engines that only turn 3k rpm max. If there wasn't so much regulation on every single part the cost would be lower. I bought crush washers for my XS drain plug from an aircraft parts supplier for 30 cents each because they were out of their certification date, regular price was like $19 each.
A little more progress on the seat. It's not perfect, but so far so good for a first time.
Changed the angle a little bit, but it's getting closer to finished.
Perhaps already straight
Remember in School school crafts ..For copper a depression like a cup was used in a cut log
Gradually forming the item -- a ladle
From the outside in step wise. Hammering.
Dont know how thick that aluminum is and it is welded. From 3 pieces But getting a piece of wood and make the depression can help. Perhaps next time.
Sometimes one can use a leather bag full with gravel. Mostly for smaller dents and so .
Depending on thickness but Aluminum can be pressed against a steel pipe . In steps
Per hand -- Pipe sitting in a vice or so
In this case with variable radius could be an alternative
In air condition ducts we used to stick in the hammer handle into the pipe hammerhead outside then
Rotate the hammerhead around and then getting the end of pipe round circular and also a bit outward conical which made it simpler connect.
Dont need to be a hammer ..It can be wood also
The forward edge of the seat would maybe loose the waves
Maybe need a wooden block inside also to get the right angle
Remember in School school crafts ..For copper a depression like a cup was used in a cut log
Gradually forming the item -- a ladle
From the outside in step wise. Hammering.
Dont know how thick that aluminum is and it is welded. From 3 pieces But getting a piece of wood and make the depression can help. Perhaps next time.
Sometimes one can use a leather bag full with gravel. Mostly for smaller dents and so .
Depending on thickness but Aluminum can be pressed against a steel pipe . In steps
Per hand -- Pipe sitting in a vice or so
In this case with variable radius could be an alternative
In air condition ducts we used to stick in the hammer handle into the pipe hammerhead outside then
Rotate the hammerhead around and then getting the end of pipe round circular and also a bit outward conical which made it simpler connect.
Dont need to be a hammer ..It can be wood also
The forward edge of the seat would maybe loose the waves
Maybe need a wooden block inside also to get the right angle
It's 16 gauge 5052, so it started at .063". I formed the hump using a shot bag and english wheel. There's actually 7 seperate pieces as it sits, the wired edge will add one more. It still has a little shaping to go before it's ready for clean up and polishing.
OK you are well equipped will be fine
It's taken a long time to get well equipped. I also watched a lot of videos from Wray Schelin and Ron Covell. Thankfully the internet has a wealth of knowledge if you look for it.
My English wheel came from harbor freight on clearance, bead roller is the basic one you can find for cheap with a winch motor powering it. I'm not great at tig welding, but the welds always look better by the end of a project.
I got a set of Koni shocks to replace the no name amazon specials. I made the upper bushing adapters, and ordered rebuild kits for them. I'll make the lower adapters once the rebuild kits and new lower bushings get here.
I also made a small bulls eye pick so I can make the seat polish up nice.
I also made a small bulls eye pick so I can make the seat polish up nice.
Would you mind explaining the purpose/use of the "bullseye pick"?
Yes, the top has a flat piece with a hole in it, you line it up on a small low spot and pull the handle to tap just that spot up. Here's a video that shows it better than I can explain it.
Ah, thanks. I forgot you're building a metal seat cowling, couldn't figure how it would be used on leather or vinyl...
Very Interesting Would such a device be able to push out tank dents the size of about 2 --3 inch diameter
Perhaps modification .. Screw as force ? other ?
I think it would be hard to use through a filler hole. The better option would probably be the paintless dent removal tools. They have different shapes and tips for reaching hard to get spots and pushing.
I made a pin spanner for the Koni shocks. Now I can tackle the rebuild before I install them.
Man that looks robust! What is that, 1/2" plate?
Lol, yep. 1/2" 304 stainless. When I die someone will be trying to find out what it fits.
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