The Norda

Made some paper cones so that I can have a visual of 4-4 vs 4-2 exhaust.
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If it wasn't $1k for the mufflers I'd love a set of the hydroformed megaphones from Rayson's in the UK. But I guess 4 mufflers from cone engineering isn't much less. If I do 4-2 I'll have a crossover/ X-pipe after the merges.

I made a little progress on shortening the stator cover for the upgraded charging system. It's a little over an inch shorter, which isn't much but it's at one of the widest points of the engine.
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If it wasn't $1k for the mufflers I'd love a set of the hydroformed megaphones from Rayson's in the UK. But I guess 4 mufflers from cone engineering isn't much less. If I do 4-2 I'll have a crossover/ X-pipe after the merges.

I made a little progress on shortening the stator cover for the upgraded charging system. It's a little over an inch shorter, which isn't much but it's at one of the widest points of the engine.

I have been pondering the same on my RD350, as the Powerdynamo PMA/ CDI is a lot narrower than the stock alternator/ points setup.
 
If it wasn't $1k for the mufflers I'd love a set of the hydroformed megaphones from Rayson's in the UK. But I guess 4 mufflers from cone engineering isn't much less. If I do 4-2 I'll have a crossover/ X-pipe after the merges.

I made a little progress on shortening the stator cover for the upgraded charging system. It's a little over an inch shorter, which isn't much but it's at one of the widest points of the engine. View attachment 366683View attachment 366684
I was unaware the H750 used a PMA. In that case, I'd recommend getting a series reg-rec.
 
I was unaware the H750 used a PMA. In that case, I'd recommend getting a series reg-rec.
Stock the cb750 does not, this is an upgrade using a modified r6 flywheel and the matching stator. The kit is from an SOHC4 forum member who goes by anders288. He sells it as a bolt in kit, I'm going the extra to shorten the cover.

I will be using a SH775 regulator with it, same as I run on my XS with a PMA.
 
I suppose you have seen this but if you haven't this is the best how to hydroform I have seen.
Yep, that's definitely a better video than most. A lot of the videos people just lay the pieces together and weld the edge, rather than the extra work of rolling the edges to get a butt weld.

I did learn you need to be consistent on the amount you roll the edge or you end up with some twist. I might switch to a roundover die on the bead roller if this works. That way it will be the same on every piece.
 
So a few lessons learned.
1. With the pump I'm using you need a really heavy wall pipe nipple for it to seal. The normal pipe nipple I used ended up cutting the seal.
2. The shape at the end partially determines how round you can get the end with just the hydroforming. So a rounded end will let it get round better, or enough extra length for it to not matter.
3. Pipe dope or teflon tape is needed for the ball valve. All the leaks I had were due to fittings, not welds (surprisingly).

Overall I'm pretty happy with it. I think I'll be able to use the DXF as is and just have extra material on the connector I weld on. There will be a reverse cone added on the end so I think the overall length and curve look good.
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