The Norda

[Ratranger]

Please tell how you use it I have not had great success over the years
Possibly via using the wrong method
Better when I apply torque counter clockwise on the wrench before hitting
The latest I have was higher priced and can be better
Are you tapping it or smashing with force ? Large or small hammer ?

Should be outlawed those screw heads

Make sure it's set to loosen, find the bit that fits the screw the best, insert it in the screw and give it a little preload by hand, then give it a good hit with a 2-3lb hammer. Make sure to reset the bit in the screw if it doesn't work on the first try. Light hits don't work, it needs to be a solid hit and deadblow hammers don't seem to help. I use a 3lb brass hammer.

 

[Dunc]

Cylinders aren't terrible. Measure at 2.403" which is in spec, but it'll probably need to go 1st over to clean up everything. Wear isn't bad, nothing that will catch a nail, mostly staining from sitting most likely.

Upper chain roller shows some wear, lower looks fine and front guide looks fine.
View attachment 333642View attachment 333643

Punch it out to 836 cc, not too high lift cam & a set of good valve springs that aren't too stiff or it'll pull the rocker cradles out of the head.

 

[Jan_P]

Make sure it's set to loosen, find the bit that fits the screw the best, insert it in the screw and give it a little preload by hand, then give it a good hit with a 2-3lb hammer. Make sure to reset the bit in the screw if it doesn't work on the first try. Light hits don't work, it needs to be a solid hit and deadblow hammers don't seem to help. I use a 3lb brass hammer.

Thank You Sir the Preload hammering is New to me .And I have used a lighter final hammer. This Sounds good. Thanks
Maybe something for the Tech section
Assuming not JIS bits

 

[Ratranger]

Thank You Sir the Preload hammering is New to me .And I have used a lighter final hammer. This Sounds good. Thanks
Maybe something for the Tech section
Assuming not JIS bits

I always grind the tip of the bit down a little at a time until there is no slop. Some brand bits fit well as they come, some need a little grinding to fit better.

I just checked, it's a 2lb hammer, not a 3. So for preload I mean turn the body of the driver by hand a little so that the bit is already fully in contact with the side of the screw it'll be pushing on. You don't need to really twist or lightly tap or anything, just firm pressure for full engagement.

Also make sure the driver doesn't get stuck between tighten and loosen. Some of the cheaper ones don't always reset properly and need a little help.

 

[Jan_P]

Yes Sir this is where I lost it. These are Good advice
Using the Standard bits in JIS Heads . Not even Knowing there was such a thing as JIS standard back in the day Not twisting Counter Clockwise Smashing on -- An ruining the head more Swearing and start --.Drilling the Scrap out ... Operator Error
Maybe everyone else knows this but otherwise it can still be something for the Tech section

Could have been a Paper Note in the box when sold the wrench to Motorcyclists. If Japanese bike do this.. and not that
For heaven's sake the seller of the wrench could have provided not only the note but also the Short Nosed bits or told about it.
Perhaps should have noticed the poor fit. but did not do it.

At least .Do not smash on the Impact wrench with the Wrong bits Can save many Hours ..work. Most people have Japanese Bikes
here So most wrenches are sold with the wrong bits

Appreciate this thanks.
As mentioned never had great success must admit I don't read a lot of instructions but I don't think it was included.

If it fails I can see the Possibility drill a small center hole and try över again

 

[Ratranger]

Yes Sir this is where I lost it. These are Good advice
Using the Standard bits in JIS Heads . Not even Knowing there was such a thing as JIS standard back in the day Not twisting Counter Clockwise Smashing on -- An ruining the head more Swearing and start --.Drilling the Scrap out ... Operator Error
Maybe everyone else knows this but otherwise it can still be something for the Tech section

Could have been a Paper Note in the box when sold the wrench to Motorcyclists. If Japanese bike do this.. and not that
For heaven's sake the seller of the wrench could have provided not only the note but also the Short Nosed bits or told about it.
Perhaps should have noticed the poor fit. but did not do it.

At least .Do not smash on the Impact wrench with the Wrong bits Can save many Hours ..work. Most people have Japanese Bikes
here So most wrenches are sold with the wrong bits

Appreciate this thanks.
As mentioned never had great success must admit I don't read a lot of instructions but I don't think it was included.

If it fails I can see the Possibility drill a small center hole and try över again

No worries, I destroyed my share of fasteners before I learned. I didn't know JIS screws were a thing for a long time. Getting some JIS screwdrivers really helped, then learning how to use the impact driver helped even more. I still mangle a fastener at times, but I'm better equiped to deal with it now too.

 

[Ratranger]

Punch it out to 836 cc, not too high lift cam & a set of good valve springs that aren't too stiff or it'll pull the rocker cradles out of the head.

I'm probably going to go 2nd over and call it good. Spend the money upgrading chains and tensioners. Rims, spokes, and a tank are probably going to be the high budget items on this build.

 

[drgonzo]

Cheese head screws. They're the worst!

 

[halfmile]

So I mentioned this idea in a different thread, but I found a key component today. This will be a slow build, some parts are spendy. The plan is to stick a CB750 SOHC in a slimline featherbed frame. I've had the frame for years, and today I found a CB750 basket case for $200.

I gotta say honda made sure the motor was all there, it makes the XS motor seem light.

So plans are 1. Strip the motor, then clean/vapor blast. 2. Use the bare cases to figure out the motor plates. 3. Fit the cbr600f4i forks to the frame. And finally 4. Save money for all the rest.View attachment 333459View attachment 333460View attachment 333461

Have you got room for 2??
https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...icks&referral_story_type=top_picks&__tn__=!:D

 

[Ratranger]

Have you got room for 2??
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1566412400638357/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks&__tn__=!
View attachment 333696

Too far away to be a good deal. Almost 4hrs each way according to google maps. It would need to be extremely rare or an extremely good deal to go that far.

 

[Ratranger]

Getting close to being able to split the cases. Just ordered a flywheel puller, and need to disassemble the clutch, then all that will be left are the case bolts. I also printed the shop manual so I actually know how it's supposed to go.

 

[atom4488]

Too far away to be a good deal. Almost 4hrs each way according to google maps. It would need to be extremely rare or an extremely good deal to go that far.

maybe tempting but . My absolute limit would be 5 hours total... unless it was something otherwise completely unobtainable locally. That said, I did drive 17 hours or so (total) to retrieve a particular boat that I had searched for for several years!

 

[Ratranger]

maybe tempting but . My absolute limit would be 5 hours total... unless it was something otherwise completely unobtainable locally. That said, I did drive 17 hours or so (total) to retrieve a particular boat that I had searched for for several years!

If it was running, but no title it would be tempting. But straight out of a shed, unknown condition? I'll pass.

They aren't rare enough to go that far yet. The boat sounds a bit more rare, having looked for years. But you are right I balance cost with time. A full day of driving would make a closer one at $500 in the same condition a better buy to me.

 

[halfmile]

Too far away to be a good deal. Almost 4hrs each way according to google maps. It would need to be extremely rare or an extremely good deal to go that far.

Yeah. I looked at the Google Map too and it is closer to Denver than it is to me in Topeka.

 

[Ratranger]

Yeah. I looked at the Google Map too and it is closer to Denver than it is to me in Topeka.

Whole lotta nothing in western kansas. I70 from denver to salina is BORING. I'd rather drive the same time and pick something up in dallas, atleast there are places to go do stuff around there. Turn it into something other than just a day in a truck.

 

[Ratranger]

Cases are open, a little more disassembly and it can start going in the parts washer.

 

[Ratranger]

Whoever painted this engine did zero prep work. Everywhere it had caked on dirt and oil has no paint. And a lot of the paint started coming off when the solvent touched it.

 

[Jan_P]

Nice Thread -- Perhaps got lucky a $ 200
If everything is there carburetors and so
What is the standard procedure on the bearings ?
Inspect surface leave alone
Plastiguage check reevaluate
Replace as standard Procedure

Is there any chance honing and new rings does it ?
Any theory why it has been opened before ?

 

[Ratranger]

Nice Thread -- Perhaps got lucky a $ 200
If everything is there carburetors and so
What is the standard procedure on the bearings ?
Inspect surface leave alone
Plastiguage check reevaluate
Replace as standard Procedure

Is there any chance honing and new rings does it ?
Any theory why it has been opened before ?

Carbs are in one of the boxes that came with it.

From the manual is inspect and plastigauge.

It's only got .002" on the cylinders before it hits the wear tolerance. I'm not sure it would fully clean up with that little removal.

My guess is the last owner or maybe the person before them decided to rebuild it, but never managed to get far. The output seal is bad, the primary chains have definitely stretched as you can see where they touched the case. According to the speedo it has 30k miles, so it was most likely tired.

 

[Ratranger]

Not fully clean, but clean enough to figure out engine mounts. I'm going to need to get new glass beads and change the water in the vapor blaster.