The Norda

[Ratranger]

I think the middle mount on the frame will have to come off. But it looks like it'll be pretty easy to get the motor in.

Gotta wait for sprockets, swingarm pivot bolt and make a rear axle to figure out the final location.

 

[Ratranger]

Rear axle has been fabricated. It'll be captured by the bearings so it will stay in the wheel. It's also made of stainless so I shouldn't have to worry about it.

 

[Ratranger]

Hub is on the axle, with custom right side spacer, and front sprocket is narrowed for 520 chain.

 

[Jan_P]

Cannot see .. are there any radius at the diameter changes on the axle
If it is sharp I don't think it is best practice . No idea what it is called in English
Stress concentration ? .with higher risk for cracking there .Can be a safety factor

 

[Ratranger]

Cannot see .. are there any radius at the diameter changes on the axle
If it is sharp I don't think it is best practice . No idea what it is called in English
Stress concentration ? .with higher risk for cracking there .Can be a safety factor

.032 radius in the corners. It's easy when the cutter has the radius on it.

 

[Ratranger]

I think this is about where the motor will sit front to back, side to side will be dictated by the chain. The output shaft is pretty close to even with the swingarm pivot height wise.
Any further forward will require a remote oil filter, it's already going to need a spin on conversion. The stock filter housing is too wide to fit between the down tubes.

As you can see I made some spacers the same length as the cylinder height. It lets me put the head "on", while keeping with weight down.

 

[Ratranger]

I did some reading and found that on average the front sprocket on a triton sits about 7-9" ahead of the swingarm pivot. The variance is due to pre unit vs unit and long vs short chain case. The cb750 puts it about 5 1/4" ahead of the swingarm pivot. So front to back distance is pretty good, still waiting on a swingarm pivot to set side to side.

 

[Ratranger]

Got the new pivot. Now that the chain is aligned next step is to start fabricating mounts.

 

[Ratranger]

Working on the motor plates. It was a very high tech process that started with notebook paper, transferred to foam board, and finally 1/4" MDF. This works well since next will be 1/4" aluminum. I'll probably add some speed holes for looks in the final piece.

 

[JesseeS]

That MDF really ties the bike together, man

 

[Ratranger]

That MDF really ties the bike together, man

LOL, only partially. I like to make templates out of material the same thickness as the finished part will be. That way I know it'll actually fit.

 

[zrx1100]

LOL, only partially. I like to make templates out of material the same thickness as the finished part will be. That way I know it'll actually fit.

You think that 1/4” is thick enough? Those are some long plates and the motor will be flexing them

 

[Ratranger]

You think that 1/4” is thick enough? Those are some long plates and the motor will be flexing them

I've got the templates for a preunit triumph into a featherbed, they recommended 1/4" and those are way longer and skinnier. Once I have it mounted I can always add bracing, but with the front, and middle mounts I don't think there will be much room for flex.

 

[Ratranger]

Rear motor mounts modified. To get the plate on the right side to sit even with no spacers I had to take a little over .6" off.

 

[Ratranger]

Aluminum plates in place, and the chain still lines up.

 

[atom4488]

Keep it coming, love to see creative fab work evolve. Like the surface plate on top of the frame!

 

[Ratranger]

Keep it coming, love to see creative fab work evolve. Like the surface plate on top of the frame!

The granite is on there so the frame doesn't fall backwards when I pull the cases out. The rear hub is heavy enough to tip the whole thing back.

 

[atom4488]

The granite is on there so the frame doesn't fall backwards when I pull the cases out. The rear hub is heavy enough to tip the whole thing back.

Suspected that it was there as ballast of sorts. Wouldn't want it to fall though! Just acquired a very similar surface plate from a friend whose FIL was a machinist with a whole hoard of interesting tooling and whatnot.

 

[Ratranger]

Lol, yeah. That was a fairly cheap surface plate though. I think it cost me $25 back in 2015.

I modified the OEM rear mount bolts. They were too long, so now they aren't.

 

[Ratranger]

Well I can finally really start working on this. Got the paperwork straightened out and it's now titled in my name. I didn't want to do too much until I had that taken care of.