Sparkyduc
XS650 Addict
You can get a classic tag in Oklahoma. I think a 10 year tag cost $87. it just has to be over 25 years old.
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The Norda
- Thread starter Ratranger
- Start date
Yeah, but you are only supposed to take it to shows or exhibitions with classic tags. Regular tags are cheap enough that I'm not worried. Plus once it's don't I'll commute with it, just likeI've been doing with my XS.
Sparkyduc
XS650 Addict
I understand, it’s going to be nice
Should be a fun one. And hopefully a little better on the highway than the XS. It'll definitely confuse some people.
Similar here... vintage tags for 25 year-old motor vehicles. L:icensed for use on secondary roads limited to 70 kph (42 mph) and allowed to cross 90 kph (55 mph) roads. That makes it very limiting for the intended use of my bikes, although it is very tempting from a fee standpoint.
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bazz
XS650 Enthusiast
Just a couple of things to note if you run without a cush drive it's a bit like being kicked up the arse every time you select first gear
I used to run a 750 honda without a cush drive when I fitted CMA mag wheels
Also incase you don't already know the head steady on a feather bed frame is part of the frame structure
It needs to be minimum 6 mm thick
It bolts from the top of the headstock to the lug on the cross tube and to the engine
This stabilized the headstock and stops it from cracking
bazz
XS650 Enthusiast
Part of the problem is people not using JIS screwdrivers
I've read about the head steady, and seen plenty of frames for sale that had bent down tubes from no/or too weak a brace. I'm going to get the motor fully mounted then work on a brace. That'll let me know better what I'm going to tie into.
If the no cush drive gives me problems I'll end up switching wheels. I've got a full cb750 roller in my shed I can steal a wheel off of.
bazz
XS650 Enthusiast
The early Manx Norton's had an adjustable head steady turn buckle to adjust the rake very slightly
Riders were said to "know" if the adjuster had become loose because of handling
Some modern featherbed copy's have a tube welded in at that point ,It's selecting first especially from cold that's not good
Also going down through the box ,
It stripped the threads out the hub on my CMA wheel in the end
Rear motor plates version 2 are in progress. Raising the rear of the motor 1/2" to get a little more clearance between the chain and top of the swingarm.
Got the front wheel I'm going to run, gt750 4ls. It'll fit the look better, and should still be decent.
Starting on my triple clamps, and planning the steering stem.
Saved by the welder. The chain adjusters had broken in the swingarm, luckily I was able to weld nuts on and turn them out. It did take a couple tries, and what worked best was to build up tacks on the end, then really burn the nut on. Sprits a little kroil on while hot and they came out smooth. I'll run a tap through before putting new adjusters in.
Nice save!
It really was, I was trying to figure how I'd mount it on the mill if this failed. I tried it because I've seen an engine machining channel on YT do it. I figured if it works for them, it might work for me.
Heat + lubricant has a wonderful effect on seized fasteners, bushings and the like; hence the oxyacetylene torch is a key shop tool. In my shop, there are now candle stubs in the toolbox to melt into/onto heated seized items, which works really well.
At work I normally deal with 8-32 or smaller fasteners that are broken. Plus they are near heat sensitive items, so drilling and helicoil are the norm.
Starting on the steering stem for this one.
...so the lathe picture triggers lathe questions:
- what make / model / swing and vintage?
- tool holders AXA or larger?
- I like the small chuck; what diameter is it?
- what tooling do you use for parting-off operations; carbide bit in a dedicated tool holder or HSS blade-style?
Lathe is an Atlas TH54. So 10" swing, 36" between centers. Best guess on age is 50s-60s.
Shars AXA tool post.
Chuck is 5" diameter.
I avoid parting on it. It's just not rigid enough to do a good job.
Shars AXA tool post.
Chuck is 5" diameter.
I avoid parting on it. It's just not rigid enough to do a good job.
Sounds very similar to mine, with similar issues (rigidity / parting-off). I have tried carbide parting tools, different size HSS blades, and dedicated parting tool holders that eliminate the QCTP without really achieving satisfactory results, The greatest improvement was came from using the smallest possible chuck to hold the workpiece. I learned that it is not a function of chuck diameter, but more a function of chuck overhang (jaw to spindle-nose distance).
