My Atlas is the same. For parting I'll either use the tool post grinder and a cutoff wheel or throw the part in the chop saw and face off the rough...
Yep, parting is the bane of any small lathe. I did manage to finish 90% of the steering stem today. I'll take it to work where the lathes have a big enough through bore to drill and tap the end, as well as face the bottom.
WOW on finding a complete NOS lever!
Got lucky, it was on ebay for $140. My hub has a ways to go before it looks that nice.
Sounds like you got a somewhat better deal I got on my Logan; $500 with a 3 jaw, a scrap 4 jaw, lantern-style tool-post and a full complement of Armstrong tool holders, a turret tailstock, no motor but a mechanical hacksaw came with the lathe as a package.
How are you doing the metric threading; does your lathe have a set of suitable change gears or are you using a die?
It doesn't have a quick change, it's open the side and read the chart to see what gears go where. I had to buy a few extra gears and a hub to actually set it up for metric. Biggest thing to remember is don't turn the feed off when doing metric threads. Back the cutter out, switch the motor to reverse, and repeat.
For what this is worth, I saw in one of your earlier posts you had a knee mill. You could always bolt a 3-jaw chuck to the table and use that to hold round work.
I avoid the manual impact wrench and use “air gun” impact wrench, it seem to work much better for me
I've got a rotary table and manual indexer for the mill. Both useful for doing hole patterns. But long parts can be a real hassle on the mill.
The M18 impact gun has been a game changer for me.
I've got a m12 impact. Very useful, but when I'm dealing with already half stripped stuff I prefer the control of the manual impact. Plus I bought a 10 pack philips bits for the manual, so I can grind the tip down to get the best engagement possible. That probably helps as much as anything.
I'll try to take a picture of the setup the guys use as work for drilling centers in long shafts before they go into the CNC lathe. It's basically a vise hung sideways off the table on the Bridgeport, and the other end of the shaft can go all the way to the floor. It's pretty ingenious actually.
Just riffing, derailing... When forced to mess with a fubar phillips (JIS #2) reforming the head with a center punch between the slots then hammering in a bit before turning often does the trick. As always alternate tighten loosen efforts til it breaks free.
Manual mills are really flexible. I've done similar to drill new holes in a mount stand. It was actually tall enough to sit on the floor and the vise just held it in place. It just gets to be a hassle to move the head, then move it back and re square it.
Yeah, there's a lot of different tricks out there. Some of the screws on the cb750 engine were pretty bad.
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