The Norda

My measurements all work together. Triples fitthe frame.
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In preference to welding front brake stay mounts to the fork tubes have you thought about making some clamps. The clamps could possibly incorporate mounts for the front guard.

If the brackets don't work or look hideous you can always try and weld some mounts.
Pretty cool project by the way.
 
So I mentioned this idea in a different thread, but I found a key component today. This will be a slow build, some parts are spendy. The plan is to stick a CB750 SOHC in a slimline featherbed frame. I've had the frame for years, and today I found a CB750 basket case for $200.

I gotta say honda made sure the motor was all there, it makes the XS motor seem light.

So plans are 1. Strip the motor, then clean/vapor blast. 2. Use the bare cases to figure out the motor plates. 3. Fit the cbr600f4i forks to the frame. And finally 4. Save money for all the rest.View attachment 333459View attachment 333460View attachment 333461
Love the Idea, I'm an Inventer aswell.
 
I'm in Cortland NY, I have a ton of parts if you need anything. 607 345 5338 i'm glen.
I'll probably be getting some parts from cycle x. It's definitely getting new tensioners and chains. Haven't decided on a simple over bore or going up to 836cc. Pipes will be custom since they'll have to fit the norton frame.

I did weld a brake stay/fender mount to a fork leg. I'll check if it distorterld this weekend when I get my dial bore gauge.
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Have you been talking with 1/2 mile? :rolleyes:
Lol, no. There's surprisingly little info on venting the conical hub. I can find pictures, but no posts where someone showed the hub and pointed out the hole size. From rough guessing I went with a 1.75" hole saw. I think I could have done 2", but mine seems to fall between the smallest and largest holes I've seen. So I'll probably call it good.
 
I'll try to take a picture of the setup the guys use as work for drilling centers in long shafts before they go into the CNC lathe. It's basically a vise hung sideways off the table on the Bridgeport, and the other end of the shaft can go all the way to the floor. It's pretty ingenious actually.

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As promised. Vise hung sideways and the head kicked over.
 
Just checked the test leg with the bore gauge. It did surprisingly well. Less than .0005" from the top to a little below the weld. However it did get about .020" bow from the heat. So I'll try welding a lug just for the brake stay. It'll put less heat into the leg, and I have some practice now, then I'll recheck the bow. Depending onhow that goes will determine if I weld or make a clamp on.

I did work out a pattern for one front motor mount. I'll make it a bit more rounded and nicer looking, but I know where the holes have to be.
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Just checked the test leg with the bore gauge. It did surprisingly well. Less than .0005" from the top to a little below the weld. However it did get about .020" bow from the heat. So I'll try welding a lug just for the brake stay. It'll put less heat into the leg, and I have some practice now, then I'll recheck the bow. Depending onhow that goes will determine if I weld or make a clamp on.

I did work out a pattern for one front motor mount. I'll make it a bit more rounded and nicer looking, but I know where the holes have to be.View attachment 344023
would it help avoiding the warpage to have the fork tube incerted during welding? Still wondering how you are goiing to fill that cut-out in the frame tube and restore rigidity of it.
 
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