The Patience build.

[5twins]

I take a bunch of pics and notes before I tear a wheel down, also measure the rim offset. If I'm using the old rim again, I like to mount it up in exactly the same way it was, so I mark the hub in line with the valve stem hole .....

There is usually some writing or stampings on either side of the valve stem hole so I'll note which side that was with the brake side of the wheel facing up .....

Measuring the rim offset so you get the rim properly centered on the hub is much easier beforehand than having to figure it out using math afterward. For a rear drum, I lay a straight edge across the drum and measure down to the rim. On the flanged alloy rear rims, there is none, their outer edge aligns with the brake drum. I'm not sure if your steel rim will do that, not sure it's width matches the alloy wheel. The wheel in the pic below is a TX750 rear. It does have a slight offset (about 4mm) because it's drum is a little wider .....

For the front, I have the disc mounted and lay the straight edge across that. It gives a better, wider surface to hold the straight edge against compared to the much smaller diameter disc mounting bolt circle on the hub. The important fact you need to know if using math to figure this out is that the rims get centered over the spoke flanges, not the hub, at least on the rear. On the front, the hub is symmetrical so the rim ends up centered on both. On the rear, the hub sticks out more on the sprocket side so centering the rim on the spoke flanges doesn't center it on the hub itself.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Thanks 5T and noted. I marked my wheels and hubs where they matched up and took notes about direction, height and spacing. I am just on the fence about those lighter spokes.

 

[gggGary]

I've built a lot of wheels with SS spokes they all tend to be the "necked down" variety. No issues in a lot of miles on a lot of wheels. I managed to nail a large rock in the road one night, hit rear wheel hard enough to bend/kink the rim, no probs with the SS spokes.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Problem is Gary I didn’t get the SS spokes. They weren’t available anywhere I looked. I had to get the zinc coated and I get what you’re saying, but I just have to get it right in my head.

 

[Wingedwheel]

I’m not sure when they started putting Aluminum wheels on the XS but what a pain to clean up! I spent a day on the hub and today on the rim and replacing spokes. Tomorrow I’ll build a truing stand and see how good my eye is.

 

[Wingedwheel]

FYI, I guess I should have taken better notes as it took me three tries. Mainly because I started one side in the wrong hole and once I figured that out things went pretty well.

 

[5twins]

Yes, the start is all important. Get that wrong and you're doomed, lol. I should have shared this pic with you earlier .....

 

[Kevin Werner]

I’m not sure when they started putting Aluminum wheels on the XS but what a pain to clean up! I spent a day on the hub and today on the rim and replacing spokes. Tomorrow I’ll build a truing stand and see how good my eye is.View attachment 201171View attachment 201172View attachment 201173View attachment 201174View attachment 201175View attachment 201176

I worked in a bicycle shop in highschool. I relaced a rim there once. Worst 7 days of my life.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Made this stand and tried getting to this all day. Weather was nice so people kept dropping by then one kid came over for dinner so I’m literally doing this right now.
I made a pointer with several different places to allow for different height wheels. When the spokes got too snug to use a flathead I actually switched over to a 7/32 wrench. It was actually more comfortable and allowed easier access than the spoke wrench. I ordered the axle and spacers off Amazon for super reasonable. The whole setup was like $15.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Last night it just wasn’t happening so I left it until today. This is the set-up that worked the best for me. I got it as close as I possibly could which was within 1mm or so then using a small screw driver I started on one side then the other and “tuned” all the spokes because I just can’t justify spending the money for a spoke torque wrench. I was surprised to find only a few out of tune but once I did all of the spokes I was amazed at how true the rim was at this point.

 

[5twins]

Yes, I don't see the point of using a spoke torque wrench. In order to get the rim true, especially an old used one, some spokes are going to need to be tighter than others. Just as long as none are loose, I think it's fine. The only thing I could see using the torque wrench for was to check if all the spokes at least meet some minimum torque spec. But from there, you would end up tightening some more to get the rim true. I just check them all by tapping them and making sure they "ring". Obviously, they won't all "ring" at the same pitch, but as long as I don't find any that just give a dull thud (loose), I'm happy. I do the majority of my spoke tightening and wheel truing using a screwdriver on the bottom of the nipple. Once done, besides tapping them all, I will then go around the wheel and check each spoke with the wrench to insure they are all tight enough and I didn't miss any.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Next step was a pain. The new tire was a bear to get on while still being careful of my rim. I then static balanced it and was happy to note that the two weights that came off were exactly what I needed. I gave them a good cleaning and I’ve got one in the books.
This is the axle I ordered off Amazon for $16. It worked perfect.

 

[Kevin Werner]

I spooned on a front tire 41 years ago and was casual about balance. Don't do that, it hurts.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Got a new sign for the shop.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Got word my other spokes are on the way. Looks like rain all day tomorrow so it would be a good day to be in the garage, heater going and tunes playing but the wife informed me I’m her labor tomorrow. I suppose it’s in my best interest…….

 

[Wingedwheel]

Back at it. My front spokes showed up today.
I hate cleaning all the factory clear coat off Aluminum to polish it so I tried a little something different today. I went and picked up some stripper(as opposed to A stripper) and it took about 70% off for me, yay! I also sound some very fine sand paper with hook and loop backing so I cut pieces for my multi-tool detail head. It worked awesome!
I went up to 1000 grit, then two passes with a tight wheel and black compound, the two passes on a loose wheel with green compound. I was very happy
Laid everything out after a good clean-up and headed in for dinner. Tomorrow I have my assignment.

 

[Mailman]

That came out great! Cant wait to see the finished wheel!

 

[Wingedwheel]

Thanks Bob, I cant wait to see it finished also……

 

[Beags64]

 

[Wingedwheel]

I must have a serious need to do things several times. I made the same mistake with the holes as I did on the first rim and the second side was one hole off again! Oh well at least I’m not in a hurry and only 2 tries on this one so I must be improving. The biggest PItA with these spokes is dropping them in the holes and flipping the hub over. Everything spews around like I’m playing pick-up-sticks. once everything was together and snugged up it went OK. These rims being almost 50 years old adds a little bit of fun as well. I can see spots where the wheels were hit and I’m sure aluminum that’s been banged around would not be in perfect shape. I know the hub should be centered on the rime but once I had it back together I checked it with a laser and I appear to be off 1/16”(1.5mm) anybody know if that’s an acceptable tolerance? If not I’ll have to loosen them again.