That's pretty normal not being able to easily roll the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in. That's kinda just the way they are, lots of clutch drag. As long as it doesn't lurch forward and stall when you drop it in first with the clutch pulled in, you're fine.
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The Patience build.
- Thread starter Wingedwheel
- Start date
I bumped the starter and it lurched in gear so I’m not 100% convinced however without filling the engine with oil and starting it is there no other test? I checked my ‘72 and yes it behaves the same way so I’ll just give it a shot.
I guess it’s time to start it and see
Yes, the dry clutch plates are probably sticking together more than they will once bathed in oil. Even filled with oil, I still find the bike will "tug" ahead sometimes when dropped into first for the first time after starting. Guess the plates are sticking a little from sitting still. So, I'll raise the revs slightly as I drop it in gear so it won't stall.
Got power to the points, doesn’t seem to be a very strong spark. I’ll check the coils and wires however I ordered a few last items today and still have a tiny list of odds and ends. I’m going home Fri and everything is coming with me. I know I won’t have the time to dedicate when I get home thanks to a growing list of spring chores but I am very close.
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Back home and after a couple of days of “honeydo’s” I’m thinking on my next move. Now that things can go back to a normal to me pace I will do some of the things I should have in the first place, namely checking the electrical components and replacing anything that fails the basic tests. I did look in the box of replaced parts and with exception of a few gaskets and or seals that I threw out most everything is just basic maintenance items.
I guess I’ll throw this box out because I do this to kinda keep track but at this point I don’t think I need to worry about what’s in that box as nothing is salvageable or wanted. I’m still looking for the rubber parts and I found some at Geoff’s but do they sell any stateside? I did find that Cruznimage sells the intake and air box boots very reasonable but that’s the only rubber they carry.
I guess I’ll throw this box out because I do this to kinda keep track but at this point I don’t think I need to worry about what’s in that box as nothing is salvageable or wanted. I’m still looking for the rubber parts and I found some at Geoff’s but do they sell any stateside? I did find that Cruznimage sells the intake and air box boots very reasonable but that’s the only rubber they carry.
Funny, that’s the one thing I thought about keeping, thanks for the suggestion. I also pulled everything apart in the HL bucket that I already had plugged up because I was totally not happy with it. I printed out a copy of the bucket layout and wiring diagram and am going to do this properly.
I also noticed this grey wrap on the group from the main switch. I know there are some bullets with a grey shrink wrap so I’m assuming they will be the ones plugging into that set. If that’s the case and it’s something that I should have known just hang on, Im not done with dumb questions.
I also noticed this grey wrap on the group from the main switch. I know there are some bullets with a grey shrink wrap so I’m assuming they will be the ones plugging into that set. If that’s the case and it’s something that I should have known just hang on, Im not done with dumb questions.
That single top hole in the bucket gets pretty crowded what with the instrument, ignition switch, and both handlebar switch looms stuffed through it. I re-route the two handlebar switch looms through the lower two holes, one through each hole. There's lots of room down there because each hole only has one loom coming through it.
Everything in and no issues once I actually just sat down and looked at it however I have one black wire left that attaches to the underside of the top triple clamp. I’m thinking it doesn’t go in the bucket.
Checked the coils and the readings were within tolerance. I pulled 4.4(L) and 4.5(R) on the secondary, primary was 8.8K(L) and 9.2K(R). Plug wires read 9.9K. Seems a little high but IDK on this model. I had 12V at the points with a test light but I’m going back with the meter just to be sure.
I'm pretty sure that black wire to the upper triple tree is a ground to insure the handlebars get grounded (so the starter and horn buttons work). I think it does run into the bucket and connects to one of the multi-plug ground wires in the main harness.
If your plug caps are originals then that reading sounds about right. Original plug caps had a rather oddball rating of like 9K ohms. But they do go bad and when they do, their resistance starts climbing, kinda like yours are. It's cheap to replace them so I would just do it. You can go with 5K ohm NGKs or if you still run points, zero ohm caps. With less resistance, you may get a bit stronger spark.
Starter works fine but no horn. I haven’t got to that point yet. I do have another question though. When I’m checking voltage at the points there is a time when they are both hot? There is a spot in the engine rotation where that occurs. I appear to have a good spark on the right but nothing on the left. It was kicking and wanted to start but it would be on one cylinder. I checked spark with an in-line tester to come to that conclusion..
On a good note my Airbox connectors and a couple of spare carb kits came in from Cruzinimage.
I went to Sumo rubber to try and order rubber parts but the two hardest things to find appear to be OOS. That figures. Maybe I’ll have to try Geoff’s but aren’t their rubber parts supposedly similar to the stuff you get from Mikes?
I have checked for an internal short on the coils and everything appears to be fine. All components are within spec and I’m getting 12v to the coils from the points. Gaps are correct and everything seems to be right. Anyone got any suggestions as what to check next? I hate to just start changing out parts but I might start with new wires and caps.
Before replacing stuff, I think I'd swap the coils side to side, see if the issue follows. You can leave them mounted up where they are, just swap the points wires and switch the plug wires side to side. This would indicate if it's a coil or plug wire and cap problem. But, with your plug caps and wires reading close to 10K ohms, I think it would be a good idea to replace them, at the very least the caps anyway.
Have you tested the air box connectors for fit? Curious….
I planned on trying that but left the key on last night and am changing the battery now. On another note I finally spun that valve in a drill and yep, wobbler…
The Airbox side is snug and the carb side is a tiny bit loose. When I get the spring installed I should know better about that side. How should it fit, snug both sides?
