The Patience build.

I got the bike back in the frame and almost done with incidentals however while it’s being worked on there are two other items I need to address. My horn doesn’t work so I need to test that and is there a replacement for that massive flasher relay under the tank that’s not the size of a coke can lol. Being facetious but I wondered if someone had come up with an off the shelf replacement that can be bought at an auto parts?
 
It’s all back together and I took a little time fine tuning. Started right up, no smoke and running and idling like a dream. Sent Matsuo at Cruznimage an email about the issues I had with those rings and explained I understood they were way beyond return or credit policy but would just like to let him know. I haven’t heard anything yet but I doubt I’ll be getting more rings from him.Tried an automotive flasher and it blew the fuse. Since it was the original glass fuse holder I replaced it with a blade fuse holder. Still blew the fuse so I plugged the old flasher back in and it worked! Makes a noise occasionally but working. What should I have been looking for with that flasher? I’m guessing you can’t just use any three prong.
 
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One of the things I learned and I searched but couldn’t find a mention of it here but the cam goes in quite easily from the points side of the engine when the chain is not broken and there is enough slack in the chain to easily adjust the position before putting the bearings back on. The raised edge of the cam gear keeps you from getting it in from the other direction. I don’t think leaving the chain intact is typically done but in my instance where it was new and I just needed to get to the rings it was quite easy once I figured that out.
 
I don't think you "get" how the sync adjustment works. Both butterfly plates are adjustable with the screw on the linkage between the carbs. Turning the screw one way closes one plate and opens the other. Turning the screw the other way does the opposite, closing the other plate and opening the closed one. You play with the screw setting, turning it one way or the other, until both plates are closed. You do this with the throttle speed screw backed out as shown above. Then, after you get both plates closed, you turn the idle speed screw back in until both plates crack open a hair.
Hey 5Twins, I have a question on this subject. I put a new throttle cable on. But when I put it in the cable arm on the carbs it wont shut all the way. It's like it needs another 3/8" or so. I had to take it loose because I am firing it up first time since cleaning and resetting the carbs w/a 145 main and 45 pilot. I'm missing one side of factory airbox so I McGyvered some homemade uni pods and I cut 6" off end of factory exhaust.,one was damaged. Oh yea, I replaced needles w/the notched ones and set on 2nd from the top. Both slides had very slow drop time when tested w/thumb over port. NO LEAKS!! But battery was too weak so charging now. I might not be getting fire because bothe plug caps have just pulled right off and I haven't gotten a Honda m108 (I think that's the#) ignition coil yet.
 
BS34 carbs? Well, your new jetting is probably "in the ball park" but only actually road testing it will tell you for sure. That 145 main may be a bit too big. I've never been able to run one that large. But again, only road testing will tell you for sure.
 
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