They! followed me home, I swear.

Hmm new idea??

Drill a hole and weld in a tube at 90deg like in the pic???

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IMG_9910.jpeg
 
If you use a slug, use a hollow (tubular) one.
A solid piece of bar is just too rigid, you'll probably get more cracking issues.
That's a nasty crack in a nasty place.
Suzuki should have known better than to design it like that.
Method 1 would probably make a better repair if you design it right, even if it looks terrible

I do think I could make plates to cover it that would look “factory”
 
Anyone got ideas for best practices for fixing this frame??
View attachment 330434

My ideas so far are 2 different options.

Option 1 - cut a notch in it and weld it, then cut some plates to weld over it on both sides to reinforce.

Option 2 - cut a window and drop in a slug, drill some holes, weld in the slug, then cover the window with a plate and weld it up.

And I guess option 3 would be both…

I’m leaning towards 2 but getting a curved plug may be difficult as I don’t have a way to heat and bend it, although I’m sure I could figure something out if need be.

It would seem the crack in this area was common enough that by the following year they added reinforcement in this area (like option 1).

Ideas? Thoughts? General ramblings about my wasting of time on this frame?
Me, I would ask a welder. 🤔
 
Option 1 - cut a notch in it and weld it, then cut some plates to weld over it on both sides to reinforce.

That would be my choice if I were working on my bike. When I was a welder in a fleet garage and doing heavy equipment repair, I welded many a cracked truck or trailer frame and the method was always the same, V the crack out and weld it, grind it smooth and plate it. If you want you could drill a few holes in the plate and plug weld it, and if you wanted to go a step further you could even add a triangular gusset near the frame intersects. Repairs are stronger than you think, I’ve never seen one fail. Usually it’ll break somewhere else before a repair fails. Keep it simple! 😉
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Regarding welding .. The crack appears have started at the top side an continued downwards
If possible it would help to reinforce the top fibers having the highest bending stress
Probably
The internal pipe slug helps A weld without patch a la Mailman can crack, again and in one pop
Which is dangerous.
Dont know if this can affect the straightness of the frame
 
Well yes, and then again no.
I'm a coded welder.
I work with 22 other coded welders.
Only about three or four of us would know how to make a strong and durable repair to that frame.
Some of them would be absolutely clueless believe me
I’m not a welder, so I have been chastised….
.. 😔
 
That would be my choice if I were working on my bike. When I was a welder in a fleet garage and doing heavy equipment repair, I welded many a cracked truck or trailer frame and the method was always the same, V the crack out and weld it, grind it smooth and plate it. If you want you could drill a few holes in the plate and plug weld it, and if you wanted to go a step further you could even add a triangular gusset near the frame intersects. Repairs are stronger than you think, I’ve never seen one fail. Usually it’ll break somewhere else before a repair fails. Keep it simple! 😉
View attachment 330445

I very much appreciate that reply! I really like the gusset as an addition.

I was going to cap/plate it on the back side as well.

I will check to see and confirm but I believe I can run a gusset on the back side as well.
 
Suzuki should have known better than to design it like that.

I’ve never seen any other 70s Suzuki but the 2 I have acquired, in terms of the frame and the frame construction(welds) all scream “I was welded with a stick out in a dirt field” haha.

If compared to say an SX2 or even a cb350, the welding looks like garbage and the frames are flimsy.

Definitely a “working man’s” motorbike.
 
Regarding welding .. The crack appears have started at the top side an continued downwards
If possible it would help to reinforce the top fibers having the highest bending stress
Probably
The internal pipe slug helps A weld without patch a la Mailman can crack, again and in one pop
Which is dangerous.
Dont know if this can affect the straightness of the frame

My guess is the crack came from trying to take it off some sweet jumps, rather than it’s intended purpose of just riding.
 
Yeah, I'd go with option 1 and add the gussets like bob suggested.
You using TIG or MIG? TIG would be my choice for that.
And I wouldn't bother V-ing the crack. There's just enough gap as it sits. Just run a bead around it and add the gussets.

I have a multi process machine and about as much experience with mig as I have with tig, which isn’t a ton, but the experience I do have was in a formal setting with great teachers.

Probably time to get some tubing and dial in my skills a bit before goin at this frame.
 

What I find the most interesting is the lack of consistency with Vin numbers haha.

For example - the above example has matching number.

My T350 (70 - later production number) also has matching number, but a different vin tag that just states the vin number and no federal mumbo jumbo.

My TS250 (built Jan of 70) does not have matching number (they are about 50 off of sequence) but it does have the same vin tag as the 71 350 you posted. Which I would add must have been some sort of after thought as the vin tag pretty much completely covers the stamping on the frame. I had to peel it up when I took it to chp for inspection.


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Well…

Motors apart

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Crank bearings are gonna need to be replaced BUT the crank is all good.

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Crank has some minor pitting on the outside of the web but nothing to cause concern. Majority of the rust wiped right off and the rod bearing has no issues.

Measured deflection on the rod and well within spec and I got an NOS over side piston and rings to clean up the bore.

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Clutch basket needs some love! Haha.

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Kind of expected on a bike you’re constantly riding the clutch/shifting gears and revving.

Rims came in but still waiting on hub bearings before I can build them. I am not sure what is on there now as the rims don’t seem stock (much wider). I believe these will be a significant reduction in weight. We’ll see how long aluminum rims last off road.

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How's that T350 compare to your baby RD?

It feels like twice the bike - if you dropped a tooth on the front or added on the rear sprocket I think it would pull like crazy, it having a sixth gear would still let it run quite low in the rev range at speed. I also think a set of chambers would make it quite a fun bike to ride.

I’m still trying to keep it under 5k at the moment and I am a little suspect of the tires (a little hard) so I still haven’t really pushed it.
 
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