Timing help!!!!

[JammitJames]

I wanted to share my photos of assembly because what is happening beyond this point has me stumped. All while at TDC.


Valves have been adjusted for cylinders. Cam chain tensioner is flush. New cam chain installed. Everything has been aligned every specific detail followed to a T while assembling.
Once I place points screws into plates and use feeler gauges to gap to .15 thou
It’s all down hill from there.
I currently do not have a running engine. This is a complete rebuild. Okay that being said I’m utilizing a battery powered continuity tester with light bulb.
I’ve watched every single video and that’s how I know this isn’t normal.
I have no clue if what I’m about to say will make any sense. When I rotate engine at around 10 o’clock (not fire not TDC) 10-11 o’clock on the flywheel light comes on and shuts off as soon as I hit fire mark. Close at 10 and open at 6 (fire).
Thumb hole trick is being utilized to tell compression side. Upper is right and left is lower.
Something is not adding up here.
My plate could never move far enough to advance or retard the 10 o’clock all the way to 6 o’clock fire timing marker gapping gap on the timing marker on the fly wheel.
If you need more photos just ask.
@Jim

 

[JammitJames]

This is what it looks like when Timing Mark is at 10-11 oclock

 

[JammitJames]

Points begin to open once TDC is aligned with timing marker
This is for right cylinder compression

 

[Jim]

Is it possible the points cam is inside out/backwards?

 

[JammitJames]

And the cam is installed proper with engine at TDC during install

 

[JammitJames]

Is it possible the points cam is inside out/backwards?

Just saw your message. I posted pics of the cam. Lemme know what you think

 

[Jim]

We looking at the left or right side in ths pic?

 

[JammitJames]

Is it possible the points cam is inside out/backwards?

Unless you mean the cam rod. I’ve flipped it and it make no difference. I’m totally lost at this point. Do you think I need to replace anything?

 

[JammitJames]

We looking at the left or right side in ths pic?

View attachment 376481

Left side

We looking at the left or right side in ths pic?
Left side

 

[Its been a long time]

Is the PMA rotor keyed to the shaft? Have you validated the timing marks with a timing disc? Is the camshaft timing correct?

 

[JammitJames]

Is the PMA rotor keyed to the shaft? Have you validated the timing marks with a timing disc? Is the camshaft timing correct?

Pma rotor is keyed to the shaft. I haven’t validated the timing marks but they do match TDC when the pistons are at TDC the marks on the flywheel are lined up.
The camshaft timing question has me a little stumped I didn’t change anything on the cam shaft during rebuild it looked to be in proper working order.

 

[JammitJames]

Is the PMA rotor keyed to the shaft? Have you validated the timing marks with a timing disc? Is the camshaft timing correct?

I read the cam timing post that you had written. I will check everything again today but my cam locating pin in the very first picture is when engine is on right cylinder compression stroke at TDC if that helps any.

 

[Its been a long time]

I read the cam timing post that you had written. I will check everything again today but my cam locating pin in the very first picture is when engine is on right cylinder compression stroke at TDC if that helps any.

OK. I couldn't time my 77 650C with the stock points assembly. Not enough adjustment available on the points plate. Having also had issues with new (Chinese) points and condenser, at the point of not being able to time the ignition I gave up. I never really found why I couldn't get ignition timing with the stock set up. It wasn't as far out as you seem to be but I swapped out the points set up for a Boyer Bransden kit. I don't regret that decision at all.

 

[JammitJames]

OK. I couldn't time my 77 650C with the stock points assembly. Not enough adjustment available on the points plate. Having also had issues with new (Chinese) points and condenser, at the point of not being able to time the ignition I gave up. I never really found why I couldn't get ignition timing with the stock set up. It wasn't as far out as you seem to be but I swapped out the points set up for a Boyer Bransden kit. I don't regret that decision at all.

Okay with that kit I wanna make sure everything have should align properly.
I have an xscharge Pma system with regulator/rectifier no battery running kick only battery eliminator I purchased from tc bros
I’m running 2 single output coils. Does that sounds like it would be okay?
I’m gonna go get a degree wheel and piston stopper to check the marks. As this was marked prior to my purchase of the bike by the former owner. I know I should’ve done due diligence and checked before but it seems so far off idk how this could be.
I placed an order for new points and new contact point cam. I cleaned the ones I had but my goodness I’ve feel absolutely insane.
Is there any way at all that I’m miss reading these. I know it’s hard to understand from just pictures and my jabberings but I’m at a loss as to how to explain better.
Thank you for all your time!

 

[JammitJames]

I think I might be an idiot!
All the videos I was watching were utilizing a light bulb with ignition on.
I’m gonna double check but I think I might have just lost my mind.
I’ll keep you updated.
Yes I googled for dummies but that’s how I feel.

 

[Its been a long time]

Okay with that kit I wanna make sure everything have should align properly.
I have an xscharge Pma system with regulator/rectifier no battery running kick only battery eliminator I purchased from tc bros
I’m running 2 single output coils. Does that sounds like it would be okay?
I’m gonna go get a degree wheel and piston stopper to check the marks. As this was marked prior to my purchase of the bike by the former owner. I know I should’ve done due diligence and checked before but it seems so far off idk how this could be.
I placed an order for new points and new contact point cam. I cleaned the ones I had but my goodness I’ve feel absolutely insane.
Is there any way at all that I’m miss reading these. I know it’s hard to understand from just pictures and my jabberings but I’m at a loss as to how to explain better.
Thank you for all your time!

If you have a battery on the bike it will run the Boyer Bransden kit. The BB kit replaces the entire ignition system including the coil, plug wires and plug caps. I agree you need to check your timing marks before doing anything else.

If you're considering an electronic ignition kit, I would also look at Tri Spark as well as Boyer Bransden. Either of them will work just fine as long as you have a battery installed.

Edited - I just saw you don't run a battery. That's beyond my experience. Sorry.

 

[JammitJames]

I think I might be an idiot!
All the videos I was watching were utilizing a light bulb with ignition on.
I’m gonna double check but I think I might have just lost my mind.
I’ll keep you updated.
Yes I googled for dummies but that’s how I feel.

Okay yes I’m officially in need of a dunce cap!
I really appreciate everyone’s help! Yall are the real MVPs of this game and I wouldn’t have gotten this far without you!
@Jim @Its been a long time