Tire Recommendations? Daily Functionality, Vintage Look. 83 Heritage Special

Yes, it sounds like you're not charging. When you rev the bike, voltage should climb to the mid 14's. Yours isn't doing anything, lol.
 
If your battery is really bad, don't expect it to do much charging. I bet a good number of alternators have been killed by running a bad battery.
 
The XS is not a super performance machine. Probably in tires, you get what you pay for like anything else. Just because a tire pattern like the Dunlop K 70's may be a 40 year old pattern, today it's made out of modern composition. It's a better tire than yesteryear. Are roads any better? I don't know but it's the same bottomless pot holes! I like the K70's on the XS. Mailman runs them and I think he likes them on his XS also.
 
Even made of modern rubber, the K70 tread pattern and overall tire shape (profile) isn't that great for cornering. It's a "square" profile. For cornering and a vintage look, the K81 would be a better choice. We ran them all the time years ago but now that they're classified as "vintage", they're expensive, lol.

Here's a knock-off that might be worth a try .....

https://www.midwesttraction.com/sto...rm-081-universal-motorcycle-tires-4565--6477/
 
I have been using Michelin Pilot Activ tires on my Standards - they wear well, handle great and don't cost the earth.

Perhaps I am a bit of heathen, but I have never understood the whole notion of "vintage" tires and what the tire looks like. To me, a tire is a safety item and a core component of the bike's handling, braking and load carrying capacity. I really don't care what they look like.... :yikes: ....only how they work.

Pete
Bingo on that, and another thing I don't understand is the passion for effin' Safety Mileage tyres. S-M Skid Masters we used to call 'em back in the day.
Now, it's quite possible that new versions of them have much better rubber compounds, but I was put off them for life a long time ago.
 
Yeah, there's a leak. Working on it. Cleaned under LH crankcase cover, and under engine as it was too grubby to track the leak. I was going to run it then then get back under cover and check the source, but alas, not starting, so no leak chasing. Clutch pushrod seal looks like at least one likely source though. What that means for repairing I have no idea yet.
As for the starting, I plan on putting up a build/rebuild thread tomorrow where I go over the list of things to be addressed, and what makes sense considering the build plans. But in short, from what I've read and seen so far, my money is on a stator issue or bad battery issue. It used to start okay, then it seemed to only be on second start it'd go. Electric start--I hear it trying but no final turn over. Then the other day, I could only get it started with the kick, same next. Now nothing either way, and no headlight action as of today--charged battery between attempts. Battery doesn't seem to hold a charge as long as it should, even when bike isn't being used. PO said battery was new (but who knows if he actually kept it on a tender--I doubt it); it's not OG acid batt. Mechanic who changed the tires actually tested the voltage before test riding it--12.5V at idle, and then 12.4V@ 5k RPM. So from what I understand sounds like it's not the regulator otherwise the voltage would be flying away way high at that 5kRPM; sounds like it's actually not charging the battery. I just bought a multimeter today so I can go through the system tomorrow; going to look up how to test stator; so far only seen rotor tests for OHM. In the meantime, the battery is on the charge tonight.

Hi Marie,
start & test run the bike by boosting it's battery with a car battery.
Later XS650s headlight turns on automatically when the alternator starts charging at start-up & stays on if the engine stalls until the key is turned off.
Alternator STATOR is usually OK.
Check the alternator ROTOR for resistance between it's slip-rings. 5 Ohms is good. 4 Ohms is marginal. Below 4 Ohms it's hooped.
Check the rotor's slip rings are clean and it's carbon brushes are OK & in contact with them.,
Check the rotor has a magnetic field with the ignition on. (Should grab a steel tool to it's aluminum cover casting)
 
Now, it's quite possible that new versions of them have much better rubber compounds, but I was put off them for life a long time ago.
Supposedly, it is a modern compound and it just looks right on your Harley-Davidson flathead or another bike you want to resemble the period.
 
Back
Top