Dunc
XS650 Addict
I checked mine before fitting them, first one was spot on, but the second was 3mm lower.No, probably another thing i assumed was ready to go. I'll check when i get them off again
I checked mine before fitting them, first one was spot on, but the second was 3mm lower.No, probably another thing i assumed was ready to go. I'll check when i get them off again
I had that a few times last year before i got my new ignition and timing straightened out. Any help on what to look at first with the backfiring through the carb problem? Right now that is my biggest problem and I just don't want to keep going around in circles because i am doing something out of order. And if the answer is "nothing that specific", that is okay, I know by now these old bikes are tough.Specified idle speed is 1100-1200 rpm, and that's where you want to run it. Any lower and the bike can (and will) randomly just stall. Any higher and the ignition can start into it's advance curve. That can cause the idle speed to increase even more which will cause more advance, more speed increase, more advance, etc. It's a self-feeding problem. The bike could end up sitting there running at 2000 or 2500 rpm, without you even touching the throttle.
I've worn out carb threads chasing electric issues.Never underestimate an ignitions ability to fool you into blaming the carbs.
We had done those things back in December, but not in the last few weeks. guess the reason I sound so puzzled is i rode it fine with the 185 mains, and only problem was the engine sputtering after 3500. When i changed to 180 is when the current carb problem started, but the function of the bike overall seems okay when i ride it. I would assume that any or all of those things being off would make it not run good as a whole. Right?valve clearances checked, compression tested (recently) timing checked again recently. timing chain tension checked.
those carbs CAN be swapped side to side.
The mike's xscharge e-edvancer model. when i checked both sides with timing light it was consistent, so i assume it was working properly.Remind me what ignition do you have?
I note that WideAwake (he's ~ sea level too) suggested 35 pilots (2.5 slide) and 5twins also suggested going richer (~27.5). What pilots are you at currently?Ran at a nice idle, but Air screw at 1 1/2 turns and 1 turn no change, still backfiring about every 45 secs.
I know, have seen many different posts against that ignition. My current pilots are 20, down from 22.5. I missed that from 5twins and most of my research and un-education about backfiring through the carb led me to believe if all of the fuel is not combusting early, maybe smaller pilots will help. A few recent test rides has it running through all of the gears and rpms properly, just maintains that carb spit about every 45 seconds at idle. After the rides, plugs were still coming out dark, which typically means rich.I note that WideAwake (he's ~ sea level too) suggested 35 pilots (2.5 slide) and 5twins also suggested going richer (~27.5). What pilots are you at currently?
If too lean, you can get a misfire and incomplete combustion and the plugs will read dark and cause popping in carbs (and also exhaust on decel)- just a theory ATM.
I'm trying not to let the presence of an XSCharge Ign. prejudice me - but, they will play games and don't like low voltage (really don't like capacitors). So, have you checked voltage at the ignition coil (+)?
If you're referring to the mix screws, there's a rule of thumb for bike carbs.... Mikuni'sThis idea of lean in / rich out is what has had me so confused.
might be the "spit", that's one cylinder fire that didn't ignite. So the next firing has extra unburned gas from the previous miss hanging around,the plugs would darken if running lean