Upgrade ignition?

I sent a message to tri spark, here is the reply:

Q: Hi, can you share the advance curve vs rpm for the Yamaha XS650 system (not rephased)?

Also, do you offer a Firebox equivalent for XS650?

A:
Thanks for your inquiry.

Our Compass system for the Yamaha XS650 (not rephased) follows the same advance range as the original factory system, but with more subtle transitions. The advance begins at approximately 1400 RPM and reaches full advance by 3500 RPM, with most of the advance occurring before 3000 RPM. Half advance is achieved at 2000 RPM. This design provides excellent low-end throttle response, a stable idle, and reduced risk of pinging or knocking.

While I don't have a specific drawing to share, I hope this description gives you a clear idea of the advance curve.

Unfortunately, we do not offer a Firebox equivalent system for the Yamaha XS650.

How much for postage to the US?
 
I got around to Jim’s suggestion of wiring the weights and seeing if it affected anything and I will report that with the weights wired, no revving issue. Removed the wire and it came back pretty quick. I also saw something I was unsure of. Looking down at the spinning weights as I gave it throttle and the advance unit sped up I could see an outward movement as if there was side to side slop in the shaft. Anyone know if that’s normal? IMG_8609.jpeg
 
No I didn’t.check it with a timing light but here’s what I’m finding. With the weights wired I could play with the idle screw and adjust it to exactly where it would idle nicely. Pulled the wire off and engine speed shot up right away. Kinda hard to do any checks with the runaway revs. So annoying!
 
They are NOS OEM springs with a loop cut off each one. Weights appear to snap back with no issue. That’s what has made this issue so annoying and why I floated the idea of going electronic. I think I ruled out any Carb issue today.
 
I did start with stock springs and there was no affect on the revs. The suggested fix was shortening a spring for more tension. One side didn’t do it so I snipped the other to not much change as well. Timing is spot on, carbs are vacuumed synced and advance unit was cleaned and greased. Even @gggGary took a look at the weights in Arkansas and gave them an approval stamp for snapping back but there’s something amiss and it’s very elusive.
 
I got around to Jim’s suggestion of wiring the weights and seeing if it affected anything and I will report that with the weights wired, no revving issue. Removed the wire and it came back pretty quick. I also saw something I was unsure of. Looking down at the spinning weights as I gave it throttle and the advance unit sped up I could see an outward movement as if there was side to side slop in the shaft. Anyone know if that’s normal? View attachment 360504
Lug on the right hand weight isn't sitting in the groove properly. To me it looks like the weight pin is not straight . Something is off

This is the same as another poster who is having ignition problems.

mikes advance rod was to long and needed to b shimmed.

Are the rod and weights original?
 
Lug on the right hand weight isn't sitting in the groove properly. To me it looks like the weight pin is not straight . Something is off

This is the same as another poster who is having ignition problems.

mikes advance rod was to long and needed to b shimmed.

Are the rod and weights original?
I am with skull here.
 
OK, my options for electronic iggy.
Boyer Bransden shipped to me around $300
Tri-Spark, shipped to me $380.
From what I’ve read I’m leaning toward the Tri-Spark.
Either will be a fine choice. I would choose the Tri Spark if they're both available.

I bought the BB kit. It has it's foibles but works really well once set up. At the time it was much less expensive here in the UK than the Tri Spark. And the UK distributor wasn't especially interested in supplying one. Shipping from Tri Spark in Australia was too expensive. The BB kit has increased significantly in price since I bought it.
 
Still on the fence. Did my research on installation procedures and they are both pretty cut and dry. The Tri-spark uses the advance rod while the BB systen supplies a piece of all thread. Santa will bring me whichever I choose as I talked to Ms Claus and got the OK
 
I set a couple of bikes up with these. Very simple to set up, programmable and reliable. I liked them so much I bought 5 for my own spare parts shelves and have installed in 2 of my bikes. Made by an XS specialist for his own bike they're not always available. He also makes good starter wheels that throw into the crank. The problem is that as a Euro sole trader production runs aren't that big, how reliable is future supply/support and post. But then, I'm not going to last another 100 years either and now is NOW.
 
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