Flash1977
XS650 Addict
Does anyone know whether I can remove and install new tappets without removing the rocker box? I'm hoping I can just remove the tappet covers and get to them threw there.
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Valve adjustor screw (tappets)
- Thread starter Flash1977
- Start date
Bob Wegman
XS650 Addict
I say yes, Remove the valve cover, remove the chrome Philips cap on the side of the rocker box for the rocker arm, thread in a 6mm puller to the rocker pin and remove pin and rocker arm. Hope this helps you.
Yes you can remove the adjuster screws up and out of the rocker arms without removing the rocker box.
Edit: I posted incorrect information earlier to this thread. I said the rocker arms could be removed from the engine without removing the rocker box. That is only true if you are able to remove the outside cylinder studs first. That would be very difficult to do if they weren't slotted for a screwdriver already.
Edit: I posted incorrect information earlier to this thread. I said the rocker arms could be removed from the engine without removing the rocker box. That is only true if you are able to remove the outside cylinder studs first. That would be very difficult to do if they weren't slotted for a screwdriver already.
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Why are you replacing tappets you haven't seen yet??
Tappet and valve stem chipping is a thing in XS motors but they live on "just fine"
It does make setting valve clearance more art than science.
Tappet and valve stem chipping is a thing in XS motors but they live on "just fine"
It does make setting valve clearance more art than science.
As I have mentioned in the past, I have installed "Big Foot" swivelling valve adjuster screws from Air Cooled Specialties (I think they are now sold by Mid-America Motorworks.com) in my XS650s and they seem to run quieter with no ill effects.
Given the full coverage of the tip of the valve stem, I doubt there would ever be any denting or chipping of the stem.
Bob Wegman
XS650 Addict
I posted incorrect information earlier to this thread. I said the rocker arms could be removed from the engine without removing the rocker box. That is only true if you are able to remove the outside cylinder studs first. That would be very difficult to do if they weren't slotted for a screwdriver already.
I guess I used the EMPI Adjustors so likely the same as you Kevin.
Ah ok, the EMPI ones are different to those in your picture you posted, those look like you would have to remove a lot of material on the rockers.
I think so Kevin, but it wasn’t a great deal of material. I had that work done by a local shop.
Flash1977
XS650 Addict
I just saw this . I'm not sure if I understand this correct. I have seen them, infact I put them back in the bike when I had it apart. They were worn so I polished them. At this point they seem to be ok. But I am being told that they will be constantly moving on me. I ended up buying a set of ball foot or feet maybe out of the EU. But I think I will put a set of elephant feet in next spring if I decide to put a shell cam in it.
And here I am with a head all apart, ran into an "elephant in the room" in the SOIR
Hey enough for TWO bikes. beat up valve ends and tappets is thing.
Has anyone got a lot of miles on elefeet?
any; wow! this is great? OR OMG STOP don't do it?
There are a few different types the captive ball type;
and these where the whole end swivels.
I'm a bit leary of having to grind the threaded bore in the arms back for clearance, leaving reduced thread length.
optional question;
How do you hide an elephant in a strawberry patch?
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I’ve got close to 2k miles on mine since my rebuild, they seem to be holding up. I do notice after longish highway runs that they get pretty noisy, I may not have them set correctly though, I’ve been experimenting from .003”-.006” on both
Usual is 3 intake 6 exhaust.
After reading through a bunch of cam/ramp discussions I may experiment with 4/8 mebby even 5/10 If I can stand the noise....
Edit; rethinking this, keep a .003" difference tween intake exhaust, no matter the gap...
ie .004/.007 .005"/.008"
After reading through a bunch of cam/ramp discussions I may experiment with 4/8 mebby even 5/10 If I can stand the noise....
Edit; rethinking this, keep a .003" difference tween intake exhaust, no matter the gap...
ie .004/.007 .005"/.008"
Flash1977
XS650 Addict
Have you actually looked into order the first type(captive ball type)? I believe they look like the same ones that I came across and tried to order,but the company didn't seem to exist. I thought maybe it was a scam or something. If you find out that they are available is be interested.if I'm not mistaken they fit the stock holes and threads where as the elephant feet (the second option) require drill and tapping.And here I am with a head all apart, ran into an "elephant in the room" in the SOIR
View attachment 364293
Hey enough for TWO bikes. beat up valve ends and tappets is thing.
Has anyone got a lot of miles on elefeet?
any; wow! this is great? OR OMG STOP don't do it?
There are a few different types the captive ball type;
View attachment 364294
and these where the whole end swivels.
View attachment 364295
I'm a bit leary of having to grind the threaded bore in the arms back for clearance, leaving reduced thread length.
optional question;
How do you hide an elephant in a strawberry patch?
At first I tried the CB Performance brand but noticed the threads were quite loose, I informed them of it and they refunded me. Then I ordered some EMPI ones off eBay and they fit much better. I mentioned it in this post on my thread,
https://www.xs650.com/threads/kevins-1980-xs650-g-restoration-thread.68684/post-894966
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And here I am with a head all apart, ran into an "elephant in the room" in the SOIR
View attachment 364293
Hey enough for TWO bikes. beat up valve ends and tappets is thing.
Has anyone got a lot of miles on elefeet?
any; wow! this is great? OR OMG STOP don't do it?
There are a few different types the captive ball type;
View attachment 364294
and these where the whole end swivels.
View attachment 364295
I'm a bit leary of having to grind the threaded bore in the arms back for clearance, leaving reduced thread length.
optional question;
How do you hide an elephant in a strawberry patch?
Hi Gary:
I put them in Lucille and since then I've put about 15,000 km (nearly 10 K miles) on them without problems. The need for valve adjustments seems to be reduced.
As for the reduced thread engagement - the rule of thumb is that anything over one diameter of thread engagement in steel (like the rocker arms) is OK. If the rockers were a softer material like brass or aluminium, you'd want about two diameters.
Anyhow, I looked at it and concluded that it is fine.
Pete
Paint its toenails redAnd here I am with a head all apart, ran into an "elephant in the room" in the SOIR
View attachment 364293
Hey enough for TWO bikes. beat up valve ends and tappets is thing.
Has anyone got a lot of miles on elefeet?
any; wow! this is great? OR OMG STOP don't do it?
There are a few different types the captive ball type;
View attachment 364294
and these where the whole end swivels.
View attachment 364295
I'm a bit leary of having to grind the threaded bore in the arms back for clearance, leaving reduced thread length.
optional question;
How do you hide an elephant in a strawberry patch?
