Van Go

I thought long and hard about gas cooking, but then you need a big assed propane tank... and more stuff to tend after. I'm gonna eventually include a Coleman kerosene camping stove so I have (cooking) options...

My neighbor, Jeff (of Great Lakes fame) just gave me a Coleman camping stove. Needs a bit of cleanup, but it works.
Now I can cook with electricity or gas kerosene... Good enough.

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When it comes to small stoves like that I prefer propane. Had an alcohol stove once. Hated it, the flame was so clear you couldn't hardly see it and wasn't sure it was burning.
Actually picked up the previous version of this a few years back and love it. Pellet smoker that runs on 12 VDC. Came with a 10' 110 VAC adaptor block and cord, 10' cigarette light plug cord and 10' alligator clip cord so you can take it tail gating.
https://www.greenmountaingrills.com/products/grills/prime-2/trek-prime-2/
 
Yeah white gas, unleaded as a sub. There's some rumor that unleaded has some nasties released in this type of combustion. I bought a "backpacker" white gas stove for MC camping, figured I could run it on gas from the bike, never out of fuel. But propane is SO simple, clean, convenient. A two burner propane our van camping stove. My criterion is burner BTU for fastest coffee boiling. ;^) lotta newer RV's going to convection cook tops now. Is that what you have there? They can be run from "bigger" house batteries, solar etc..
 
OK.... diggin' way back into the grey matter... the last one I had we burned unleaded exclusively, for years. I don't think we ever tried kerosene. Maybe that was a lantern I was thinking of with kerosene... :umm:
I think the one I had used unleaded gas too
Or at least that's what we would use
 
I still have my Coleman “duel-fuel” lantern. It’s up in the attic because why would I want to take a lantern, fuel, extra mantles and everything along those lines when I now have rechargeable LED lanterns that are half the size and twice as bright. I can get ambience from the campfire…
 
Cool beans! Just needs a cup holder peekaboo in the back?
Better?

Added some foam sound deadener and insulation to the inside of the door (no insulation pic, sorry).
Removed the offending cup holder and made a replacement panel from the glue on foam and some leftover grey vinyl from the tear outs...
installed it and reinstalled the door card.... done.



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Prolly not the most elegant fix, but it'll be mostly hidden 'tween the closed door and the kitchenette... good enough.

Removed the door card from the forward side door to fix a recalcitrant door handle. Turned out the cable (outer) is broke. On order from Rock Auto. Won't be here 'till next Sat.

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Better?

Added some foam sound deadener and insulation to the inside of the door (no insulation pic, sorry).
Removed the offending cup holder and made a replacement panel from the glue on foam and some leftover grey vinyl from the tear outs...
installed it and reinstalled the door card.... done.



















Prolly not the most elegant fix, but it'll be mostly hidden 'tween the closed door and the kitchenette... good enough.

Removed the door card from the forward side door to fix a recalcitrant door handle. Turned out the cable (outer) is broke. On order from Rock Auto. Won't be here 'till next Sat.

View attachment 358054
Actually for very little money you can get machined aluminum replacement ferrule ends on ebay that last forever. Discovered that when I refurbed my 2000 F250, the rear quarter door cables ends rotted and had to be replaced. Bought one new cable from Rock Auto, later I saw a You Tube video about how to fix them and went the end replacement route when the other side door cable went out.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2353249703...xBB2j2sL3q9QCu8NPVPjLs8o0=|tkp:Bk9SR-Tpg5OuZg
 
Actually for very little money you can get machined aluminum replacement ferrule ends on ebay that last forever. Discovered that when I refurbed my 2000 F250, the rear quarter door cables ends rotted and had to be replaced. Bought one new cable from Rock Auto, later I saw a You Tube video about how to fix them and went the end replacement route when the other side door cable went out.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/235324970388?_skw=ford+door+cable+ends&itmmeta=01K5RK0YK6ZD08K96WQRAGXJPN&hash=item36ca761594:g:dt4AAOSwurBlanPG&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fkNeeWYl3Q/yHj5pty9soWyN6qoSjpkyUHUUzXpN1H0GI7dGFBMJIeX38mmUZNElFByLsjPK85JpZ/WC0YKR5Xn2K305rjfxXwuXKilT6+owygUtDlmFrYafL30G6LMC8TZ6bzTmeDQ0USLFD2xxGLmH12iWmNCFnBkawlBlb0auvjbKr6PtLiuOeCcUaJDT6ZyBRKYBZpdf48JoWshCfIUE/N06gKVmJZsspDG8xBB2j2sL3q9QCu8NPVPjLs8o0=|tkp:Bk9SR-Tpg5OuZg
I'll keep that in mind for future fails.
 
I'll keep that in mind for future fails.
Yeah, for me it was the difference between an $80 cable, that I then had to figure how to fish through the narrow window frame, to an under $10 purchase that I could just pull some cable slack out and break off the remainder of rotted plastic and slipping on a metal ferrule replacement, squeeze it a bit to hold and hooking it back up and go.
Believe me, eventually it will happen in your other doors.
 
Put the top on the kitchenette. 3/4" ply... my one concession to weight.
Went and picked up some formica from Phil over the weekend.
He also gave me a few boards of walnut... beautiful stuff, eh? Ripped 'em down to 1-1/2" for edging.
I'll need to let the glue set up overnight and then I can sand it down and put the formica on top.

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Sanded the top to a good flat surface and glued the formica in place. Then took an Ogee bit in the router to make the edges.

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Made the cutouts for the sink and cooktop...

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As you can see in the last few pics, the wall outlet will need repositioning. Other than that, it's time to figure out how I'm gonna mount it.
 
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