Any feedback on the quality of these headers? There is a new pair for sale locally. Just curious if it's worthwhile.
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Van Islander's TX650A - Quest for a Daily Rider
- Thread starter TX650A Van Islander
- Start date
Really like that! A few years ago I had a late 2006 Triumph Tiger 955i...great running bike, great riding bike, took a couple of ~5 day trips on it, converted me to loving panniers for touring; previously I objected to the looks, but easy practically won me over.
Enjoy that Tiger, looks to be a very nice one!
I don't have any experience with those, but I did buy a set of these...
https://yamahaxs650.com/product/replica-headpipe-set/
... which are probably the same thing. I checked the fit when they came, and they fit correctly. They look excellent, but I haven't used them yet.
Well it's been a long time since I posted on the old girl here. Last weekend I finally installed the new rotor I purchased last fall from Jim. What a difference! The ignition/idle seems a lot more consistent than before however I also had recently cleaned the float bowls and checked jets and replaced a leaking sinking float. That made a big difference of course. I hadn't run the bike in over 6 months. Crazy.
Some photos of the rotor change out. The old one was pretty rusty and likely original.
Thanks to Jim for some tips and of course his stellar work! We are fortunate to have this resource.
Some photos of the rotor change out. The old one was pretty rusty and likely original.
Thanks to Jim for some tips and of course his stellar work! We are fortunate to have this resource.
Just glad I could be of service.
I've ridden the bike about 65 miles since last weekend. I've got a few questions to raise and am open to suggestions.
This '74 has '76/'77 carbs. Boyer ignition and non original pipes. Everything else is stock including air filters.
Carbs have 127.5 main jets and 27.5 pilot jets. It works pretty well and pulls nicely but a lot of popping on deceleration in gear. The I'm thinking of changing these out. The carb guide recommends 122.5 main jets and 25 pilot jets.
Using the dead cylinder tuning method I have the fuel screw settings at about 1.75 turns out counterclockwise. The bike smells a bit rich, which seems likely given these combinations.
I'm looking to reduce the rich smell and still have the bike run well.
Suggestions?
The other issue I'm looking for ideas on as many people have gone in many directions, is the charging system. I've got this new rotor but still original rectifier and voltage regulator. I'm considering replacing those although the system works.
Thanks as always and hope everyone has a great and safe riding season!
This '74 has '76/'77 carbs. Boyer ignition and non original pipes. Everything else is stock including air filters.
Carbs have 127.5 main jets and 27.5 pilot jets. It works pretty well and pulls nicely but a lot of popping on deceleration in gear. The I'm thinking of changing these out. The carb guide recommends 122.5 main jets and 25 pilot jets.
Using the dead cylinder tuning method I have the fuel screw settings at about 1.75 turns out counterclockwise. The bike smells a bit rich, which seems likely given these combinations.
I'm looking to reduce the rich smell and still have the bike run well.
Suggestions?
The other issue I'm looking for ideas on as many people have gone in many directions, is the charging system. I've got this new rotor but still original rectifier and voltage regulator. I'm considering replacing those although the system works.
Thanks as always and hope everyone has a great and safe riding season!
Pntyrmvr
XS650 New Member
Top it up with all the newest, quality parts you can find and install. None of the originals were expected to last this long.
Popping on decel is normally a sign of running too lean. You have non original pipes, which usually require richer jetting. Your mix screw at 1.75 turns is set on the rich side, indicating that it might be trying to compensate for lean jetting. I think you need bigger jets. Just how open-flowing are your non-original pipes? And, when was the last time you synced your carbs? If the popping is only on one side, you might merely need to sync.
What do your plugs look like? In general, white electrode and ground electrode indicates lean. Light brown is good. Black is rich.
Thanks DogBunny. Will advise on plugs condition tomorrow.
Popping on decel also caused by blocked or partially blocked pilots. Worth taking the float bowls off, ensurng they're clear - see how that goes before swapping jets.
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Thanks Raymond. They sure looked clear but can check again. The bowl passageways were clear. I cleaned the bowls in a borrowed ultrasonic cleaner and ran carb cleaner and compressed air through them, BUT I am a hack by comparison to your esteemed Bullet restoration capabilities!
I ordered the VR115 regulator from Rock Auto last night. This rectifier looks like a good solution - there might even be two on this package? $31.00 CAD delivered right away on Amazon.
I need to find a good source for genuine Mikuni jets to Canada. Fortnine has some, mixed in with offshore copies.
Attachments
And just recalled, I have the commando mufflers, which would have been new about 2018 or 2019. Found a good thread on tuning '76/'77 carbs through the carb tech section, will read up on that.
Left side plug seems ok (1st photo). Half of right side plug seems ok but other half not? (2nd and 3rd photo). Perhaps this is left over from my sinking float, but I didn't note which carb had the sinking float.
On the topic of plug choices, I have NGK BP7ES in the bike now, with new ones in stock. Perhaps install the new ones when I get some different jets.
On the topic of plug choices, I have NGK BP7ES in the bike now, with new ones in stock. Perhaps install the new ones when I get some different jets.
I was going to say 27.5 pilot in the '76/'77 carbs on a mostly stock XS motor might be rich a step. My BBK 750 with very open muffs and 1.75 pipes runs good with 130 mains and 30 pilots...
One shot of that right plug looks like oil?
dry the plugs with a propane torch you can't really overheat them, burn off the deposits. install, do a ride, A plug chop is gold standard.
Bring along a plug wrench, do a full throttle run in top gear pull in the clutch and hit the kill switch, then pull the plugs at the side of the road. Inspect and take pics...
Mark the plug with some paint see if that black area is pointed at the intake valve.
dry the plugs with a propane torch you can't really overheat them, burn off the deposits. install, do a ride, A plug chop is gold standard.
Bring along a plug wrench, do a full throttle run in top gear pull in the clutch and hit the kill switch, then pull the plugs at the side of the road. Inspect and take pics...
Mark the plug with some paint see if that black area is pointed at the intake valve.
Report coming next weekend following the high speed plug condition trial 
Let me tell you... This is the very best crowd... First time I jumped into a Yamaha 650 Society rally in Arkansas my clutch let go, 750 BBK kit against maybe worn parts. A few years later the "Red Bike" was not quite sorted. 5 or 6 years into this journey both bikes are almost daily riders. Cheers.Report coming next weekend following the high speed plug condition trial
I would finish your Mods by adding UNI pods and then trying 130 and 132.5 mains. Both sets of '76-'77 carbs I've used were set up this way and worked well (132.5 mains, 27.5 pilots, and the needles leaned one step).
Just checked my old notes. ‘76 carbs: I’m running 132.5 mains; 27.5 pilots and clip in the middle groove of the needle; Uni filters. I’ve been running like this for several years.
