5twins, I just read your detailed instruction on servicing that brake assembly. Excellent instructions - thanks!
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Van Islander's TX650A - Quest for a Daily Rider
- Thread starter TX650A Van Islander
- Start date
I can tell you all about buzzy. The R3 turns 6500 rpm at 60 MPH in 6th. Can't wait to get my TXA up and running
In the interest of keeping everything about this bike in one spot, I'm copying the link to another thread where I responded about exhaust pipes, with video link of before and after inserting bolt into baffle. Post #44.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/pipes.60919/post-723571
https://www.xs650.com/threads/pipes.60919/post-723571
Team Junk - 6500 redline indeed! I loved my Honda 919 for high RPM. My DR650 doesn't even have a tach.
Do you or any other guys watch Fortnine videos on YouTube? They just did a super cool video on the 1990 CBR250RR which had a 19,000 RPM redline - all in a 250 cc inline 4 with 4 valves/cylinder. Crazy stuff!
Do you or any other guys watch Fortnine videos on YouTube? They just did a super cool video on the 1990 CBR250RR which had a 19,000 RPM redline - all in a 250 cc inline 4 with 4 valves/cylinder. Crazy stuff!
6500 is it's cruise rpm . It redlines at 12500.
I haven't removed the rear wheel bearings yet, but plan to. Do you guys think that these are the original wheel bearings? This is the right hand rear wheel bearing.
NTN brand? No, I don't think so. It does look like a nice Japanese bearing though. I don't replace them unless they need it. I will pop the seal off and put fresh grease in though. Stick your finger in the bearing and turn it, see if it moves smoothly or has too much play. That's how I judge them, not very scientific I know, but it's pretty easy to spot a bad one.
KOYO is the OEM on all of my vintage Yamahas. Having briefly worked in one of their factories, I'll make an extra effort to go back in with Koyo.
FWIW agree with 5T - putting a finger on the inner race and turning the bearing will quickly tell you if it's bad. Should turn totally smoothly. If it feels rough or notchy, replace.
Thanks. They feel ok, not notchy, but not as fluid as a new bearing would feel. My only experience with changing wheel bearings is on boat trailers and when bearings which have been in the ocean are toast, they are gritty and notchy. These aren't like that, but I still need new seals so will get the all balls package which includes the seals. Perhaps I will be able to grease the ones currently in the wheel. I've read conflicting info online about the quality of the all balls bearings. I am sure they are fine or Team Junk would not have recommended them.
That sluggish feeling may just be old, semi-dry grease. That's why I re-grease them, clean out any old, hard stuff too. Usually makes them good again. But, I have changed out quite a few in 650 wheels, some simply because they were early wheels and the bearings were the open style. I prefer the 2RS kind (2 rubber seals).
Doing lots of cleaning today waiting for new wheel bearings and my new ignition, so have a few things apart. When I did the top end rebuild on this engine I didn't touch the bottom. I know I'll likely need to at some point. I've got a few small oil leaks and have a question. Once the oil is drained is there any reason I can't change this gasket dierctly under the gear shift spline near the bottom of this photo? The engine doesn't need to be on its side to do so does it? A rookie question, I know.
Not too sure which gasket you're asking about - the green one near the bottom of the picture is the alternator cover gasket and you already have that cover off.
I think Van is talking about the 6 bolt cover for the electric starter assembly. #24
Other than keeping the flanges oil free during reassembly you are good. One thing common is the bolt holding the shaft shield is easy to strip. IIRC they are all 20 mm with a washer you can change that one to 25 mm. Double check it doesn't bottom by assembling dry....
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Yes, that is correct. Gasket #24 thank you
On a cover like that... that's seldom (if ever) gonna be removed, I prefer a light smear of sealer on both sides.
I usually add a light smear of general-purpose grease on both sides of the gasket.
