Vape powerdynamo 277 install

[E-motioncycles]

Correct: all the stuff under the cam covers is now obsolete.

Timing: I just set the rotor 43ish mm on the left Cyl pickup, the right Cyl will fall in line (actually, I think I ended-up less than 43; so be prepared to adjust once strobed). Do Mark your rotor LTDC, RTDC and also (with degree wheel) mark case 15 degrees and 40 degrees BTDC to verify while running. You'll want some reference marks on the case that relates to those.
View attachment 233010

Maybe a stupid question. How did you mark your case/cover for LTDC, RTDC, BTDC, etc? My degree wheel is in the way preventing my from accurately marking anything.

I have the engine in LTDC right now with a degree wheel. I play to measure the 42mm and tighten up the rotor bolt (is there a torque spec?) while holding the crank and rotor still - probably have to make special tools to hold everything. Any tips?

 

[jpdevol]

You'll want a stationary marks somewhere, usually on the sidecase, for TDC, ignition idle rpm spark and full advance spark. You also need a mark on the rotor that corresponds to the TDC mark when at true TDC. With 277 it's helpful to have a rotor mark for R&L

You can print a custom degree wheel with a diameter that matches your rotor here:

https://www.blocklayer.com/degree-wheel

 

[jpdevol]

Rotor nut should be stock torque - ~30ftlbs.

I'm lazy and just tighten it with a 3/8" drive electric impact driver (or air powered) - no holder required (YMMV). Contrary to opinion those keyless rotors do not slip once tightened and will require the puller to remove, even when just snugged.

 

[E-motioncycles]

Rotor nut should be stock torque - ~30ftlbs.

I'm lazy and just tighten it with a 3/8" drive electric impact driver (or air powered) - no holder required (YMMV). Contrary to opinion those keyless rotors do not slip once tightened and will require the puller to remove, even when just snugged.

Instructions don’t indicate for the 277 reg/rec. in a this little tab supposed to be used? For another ground connector perhaps?

 

[jpdevol]

I think that's intended for an extra ground to the can (housing) on installs where it attaches to non-metal/grounded part. The brown ground ideally would be direct to battery negative

 

[E-motioncycles]

I think that's intended for an extra ground to the can (housing) on installs where it attaches to non-metal/grounded part. The brown ground ideally would be direct to battery negative

Thanks so much for all the help. Do you by chance remember which spark plug caps and plugs you used?

 

[jpdevol]

I did switch plug caps from the ones provided by VAPE - just for a different look (non-resistor):

https://www.denniskirk.com/parts-unlimited/klg-plug-caps-98.p2068.prd/2068.sku

Plugs: NGK Iridium BPR7EIX

 

[E-motioncycles]

I did switch plug caps from the ones provided by VAPE - just for a different look (non-resistor):

https://www.denniskirk.com/parts-unlimited/klg-plug-caps-98.p2068.prd/2068.sku

Plugs: NGK Iridium BPR7EIX

The VAPE instructions state:

“Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).”

It’s my understanding that the BPR7EIX plugs have an internal 5k Ohm resistor and therefore should not be used, or am I understanding that incorrectly?

 

[Signal]

No you are correct R is for resistor.
If I remember correctly the reason for non resistor plugs Vape give is to aid starting. Self excited ignitions need to be spun briskly to allow enough voltage to build up to jump the gap.
I have seen on other CDI ignitions (electrex world) with electric start and a low battery the bike wont fire, good battery - faster cranking and it fires up.

 

[jpdevol]

I think VAPE may mean not to use resistor plugs with resistor caps. Mine works fine with R plugs and fires instantly. Besides, finding a non-resistor spark plug with projected tip in the correct heat range is a big problem these days...

https://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/kb/plugs.htm

 

[Signal]

Yes I believe NGK have stopped producing non resistor plugs. I know of one XS with a Vape ignition running resistor plugs with no apparent problems.

 

[Dunc]

Got an issue with the Velona 80 tacho on the bike. Running a Vape 277 system with the yellow tacho pickup wire wrapped around #1 plug lead 5 times as directed in the instructions. Tacho revs vary up & down, 400-1400 rpm, at idle & all over the place when riding. Running NGK 5k caps & non-resistor plugs. I have moved the coiled wire away from near #2 plug wire in case it was interfering. It suggests another pickup wire connection is to hook it into the '+' wire to the coil. No markings on the Vape coil & the wiring diagram isn't very clear. Not sure which wire to tap into. Anyone had similar a issue?

 

[jpdevol]

I think it's the red wire to the coil that is + on the VAPE. Vape is very "touchy" about messing with their wiring. I'd hate to tell ya something and cause damage to Vape or Tach.

Anyway, a safer potential solution is to leave the pulse lead spiraling the HT lead and place a resistor (1M-2M Ohm) inline ahead of the meter and see if it settles down.

 

[Signal]

Have a look at the troube shooting section on the Vape website. Another thing to try is more turns of the pick up around the plug lead.

 

[Signal]

Could not resist having a look for my self.
https://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/kb/dzm.htm
They are pretty clear about connecting to the igntion system directly "Under no circumstcances connect your tacho to a wire of our ignition system. You not only risk ignition failures, but also destruction of your tacho."

I have successfully used a Scitsu tacho in combination with a stock firing Vape ignition and they use a wire wrapped around the plug leads, so hopefully with experimenting yours will work.

A resistor in the pick up lead helps to smooth the signal to the tacho.

 

[Dunc]

Could not resist having a look for my self.
https://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/kb/dzm.htm
They are pretty clear about connecting to the igntion system directly "Under no circumstcances connect your tacho to a wire of our ignition system. You not only risk ignition failures, but also destruction of your tacho."

I have successfully used a Scitsu tacho in combination with a stock firing Vape ignition and they use a wire wrapped around the plug leads, so hopefully with experimenting yours will work.

A resistor in the pick up lead helps to smooth the signal to the tacho.

I have a box of resistors I need to find in the workshop that might do the trick. I also notice they have a plug-in module for electronic tacho.

 

[Dunc]

I ended up getting the module from Vape & fitted it. Works a treat now!