VerveXS650 Maintenance and ride

The nuts aren't loose, but the Boyer plate is pretty much just resonating. The studs and nuts aren't touching the plate, either. Kinda weird.

So I had some scrap leather and made a pad or insulator, placed it inside the plate and viola... no more noise. Its seriously the oddest thing, but if it works, it's not stupid :)
 
The nuts aren't loose, but the Boyer plate is pretty much just resonating. The studs and nuts aren't touching the plate, either. Kinda weird.

So I had some scrap leather and made a pad or insulator, placed it inside the plate and viola... no more noise. Its seriously the oddest thing, but if it works, it's not stupid :)
In your photo, on the top Nyloc nut there doesn't seem to be any threads showing. Those type of nuts don't lock unless there is at least one complete thread protruding through the nylon ring, so although it may seem tight it could work loose. Probably not an issue with the cover touching it as that will prevent it from loosening completely but it could throw the timing off (advance/retard) if the plate moves. Just something to be aware of or consider using different/smaller nuts with lock-washer/threadlock applied.
I know Boyers are rather popular, but they really are kinda rinky-dink, lol. That length of all-thread they just hack off and use for an advance rod gets me.
That is what puts me off the Boyers, it does seem to be a bit "Heath Robinson" from all of the stories on the forum LOL. I'm thinking of getting a Pipes and Stuff TCI in the hope that its a little better quality. I do like keeping Bitsy (I know, I've named my bike!) original but its getting to be a pain finding quality (ie; not chinesium) parts. Also the the aftermarket Advance Unit has a horrible advance curve, (its either fully retarded or fully advanced with no in-between) seems to me that the makers just don't understand how it is mean't to operate in conjunction with the engine revs.
Sorry for sidetracking the thread, maybe if I go ahead with fitting a TCI I'll start a new thread - with photo's! I know we all love photo's 😍
 
The nuts aren't loose, but the Boyer plate is pretty much just resonating. The studs and nuts aren't touching the plate, either. Kinda weird.

So I had some scrap leather and made a pad or insulator, placed it inside the plate and viola... no more noise. Its seriously the oddest thing, but if it works, it's not stupid :)
Just occured to me that if its "resonating" that much it may be that the length of threaded rod that Boyers supplied may be a little warped/bent. Those rods are quite soft and easily bent from my experience.
 
@Tiggertoo I have been round the same loop as you three months ago. I wanted to keep the original points ignition. But after a series of issues including dead on arrival points and condenser I gave up. I looked at buying original Yamaha parts but the cost is prohibitive. About 2/3 the cost of a Boyer Bransden kit.

I looked at various options but I couldn't get a price out of the Pipes n Stuff bloke in Wales. I wanted a fully electronic system that removes the mechanical advance. His basic kit keeps that in place. He told me he does a fully electronic system but he never gave me a price or delivery. So in the end I bought the BB kit. One significant factor in that choice is that it is a complete replacement system including a new ignition coil. The coil supplied in the kit is a high quality PVM made in Germany. On it's own that is probably half the cost of the complete kit.

The BB kit is far from perfect. But for the price it is a good buy. I made a write up of my findings that you may find useful.

https://www.xs650.com/threads/musings-on-boyer-bransden-electronic-ignition-kit.66824/
 
In your photo, on the top Nyloc nut there doesn't seem to be any threads showing. Those type of nuts don't lock unless there is at least one complete thread protruding through the nylon ring, so although it may seem tight it could work loose. Probably not an issue with the cover touching it as that will prevent it from loosening completely but it could throw the timing off (advance/retard) if the plate moves. Just something to be aware of or consider using different/smaller nuts with lock-washer/threadlock applied.

That is what puts me off the Boyers, it does seem to be a bit "Heath Robinson" from all of the stories on the forum LOL. I'm thinking of getting a Pipes and Stuff TCI in the hope that its a little better quality. I do like keeping Bitsy (I know, I've named my bike!) original but its getting to be a pain finding quality (ie; not chinesium) parts. Also the the aftermarket Advance Unit has a horrible advance curve, (its either fully retarded or fully advanced with no in-between) seems to me that the makers just don't understand how it is mean't to operate in conjunction with the engine revs.
Sorry for sidetracking the thread, maybe if I go ahead with fitting a TCI I'll start a new thread - with photo's! I know we all love photo's 😍
I completely understand where you're coming from. I'll have it apart this weekend and tinker with it. I'll report any findings after that.

Also, you aren't sidetracking the thread. This is all related.

"Bitsy"?......
 
The Boyer didn't come with studs to hold the plate on. They supply screws. Screws will not hit the cover.
They threaded rod that goes through the cam may look "rinky dinky" but it works just fine.
 

Attachments

  • 20241001_075551.jpg
    20241001_075551.jpg
    357.4 KB · Views: 6
Back
Top