I have already made a huge improvement. This changes this screwdriver from a kind of fun and cool but non-essential item, to a critical tool IF YOU HAVE BS34 CARBS. I am modestly calling the improvement the
DIY 90-Degree Carb Screwdriver Mark II, version 1.1
Since it looks like I will never actually make the Part II YouTube video, let's back up and take a look at the handle construction of the original screwdriver:
The handle consists of a dowel cut in half. A drilled hole accepts the copper tubing, and a carved groove accepts the cable.
The drilled hole is LARGER than the copper tube, so the handle can rotate on the tube. The carved groove is SMALLER than the cable, so the handle clamps the cable.
I assembled the handle halves together using a black zip tie on the left. I tried another zip tie on the right, but it didn't clamp the cable sufficiently, so I had to change to a hose clamp. In-between, I put a piece of shrink-wrap, purely to make it look better. The black zip tie was also for aesthetics -- it looks nicer than a hose clamp.
Now for the
Mark II. It occurred to me, that if I ditch the piece of shrink-wrap, and use another hose clamp instead of the zip tie, that now I can easily disassemble the handle, and swap in a different cable, with a different screwdriver tip soldered to it.
Why? Because with a much smaller screwdriver tip, you can use the tool to adjust the "air-mix" screws on BS34 carbs.
The mix screw on a BS34 is a BITCH to adjust unless you remove the tank and use a remote fuel source. I have NEVER been able to adjust it with the tank on. I have tried all kinds of various 90 degree screwdrivers, fixed ones, ratcheting ones, one I made myself, they all SUCKED and were totally unsuitable for reasons that I won't waste my time explaining here.
The problem with using a remote fuel source, is that you can't make road-test type adjustments on the fly, for example, trying to tune out a slight pop on decel -- after perfectly dialing everything in with vacuum gages in the shop, you might find that one of the mix screws has to be opened up 1/4 to 1/2 turn to correct that decel pop. Which I like to do during a road test, with the tank in place.
So, I already checked clearances -- my existing tool, with a smaller tip, will fit, and should work fine. About to get to work on it straight-away.