Vintage style bobber build

Another fix..

On these custom build projects, things don’t always work as intended or are not as durable as needed. The extended shift linkage for the heel-toe shifter was such a case. The original factory linkage was about 4” too short in this application, so I originally extended the RH threaded end with an additional piece of 6mm all-thread and joined it to the factory rod with a barrel nut. After some miles and a few stomps, it didn’t work-out too well:
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Hey, that’s part of bobber build ‘in; – you are the R&D Dept. I figured a length of tubing, over the add-on all-thread, and some jam-nuts would give it the strength needed. It’s better to be lucky than good: it worked. It has a stiffer, more positive, feel on the shifter now - especially now it’s not bent.
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Matches the brake linkage too; I'll get to that next.
 

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I've never understood why anyone would want to shift a motorcycle with their heel. It baffles me.
First bike I ever owned had heel and toe gear change. And I guess I didn't know anything else.

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The B120 was a great little bike but of course the guys with 'proper' bikes sneered.
 
After I rode a honda Shadow 1100 with "stomp shifter" some years ago I always find I miss it when going back to bikes that don't have one.
For me the trick is having one that doesn't limit your foot placement on the floor board.
I heavily modified this Royal Star shifter for roomy foot placement. (and much better action), the stock linkage was a slop fest.
What can I say? I'm make it work kind of "fixer"
@Jim added a nice heel shift on his special.
 

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The front hub on this bike is from a ’76 Goldwing. I only use one of the original rotors on the lighter bobber and use a twin piston Brembo caliper that is actually designed for the rear – it’s small and doesn’t aesthetically overpower the style as a “springer” style might. The girder style forks are designed to use a springer brake set-up, so a homemade caliper bracket was fabricated that bolts directly to the girder. Braking is powered by a Kraft Tech Master Cyl. through a braided-steel Russell line: works well.

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Out back is an unusual set-up originally on a ’67 Honda 305 Superhawk. It has a double leading shoe arrangement and provides plenty of power. The brake anchor is fabricated to use the original mount on the brake panel and connects to the frame at a double shear mount as the factory did. The V Star brake pedal is designed for a hydraulic disc, but with the standard XS pivot arrangement, it works just fine here. Past the pivot, the brake is cable operated – as it was originally – and gives a good feel, less prone to lock-up.
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Snail cam chain adjusters are employed as is a chain tensioner to keep the 118-link chain tame.

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Comfortable? not compared to good suspension and a good saddle, but I’ve ridden worse OEM bikes.

It's an acquired taste.....lol. That said, it handles pretty good and is very stable at speed (on decent pavement).

So, I thought I’d add a little bit about the “Relic” front-end: it works pretty well. Like most bikes, you have to set it up properly for your circumstances. The builder, Michael Coffey of Voodoo Vintage, specs a mountain bike air shock of 190mm. I started with that shock, with the factory air setting, it was super stiff and would barely budge while clamping the front brake and pushing forward. I lessened the air pressure and got little improvement. I tried a second air shock from DNM and got it a little better with an air setting on the lighter end of the suggested range. Finally, I switched to a coil-over shock with a 650lb spring and got an improvement, but still not quite right. I then replaced the spring with a 500lb rating and now have a nice ride with good handling in the corners – I have the preload backed all the way off. As you can see in the last pic below, I just used 2/3 of the travel on a recent ride over varied roads. There is no un-laden sag (like a telescopic fork) with this type front end. I think it rides and handles better than most springers.

The Relic is adaptable to a stock XS frame for those so inclined – Voodoo’s recommendation is an 18” version and an AllBalls stem bearing kit IIRC.
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Build features list:

Frame - Voodoo Vintage Model VI

Front End – Voodoo Vintage Relic 20” Mid

Motor – '82 XS650

Hugh’s Handbuilt 277 Crank & Cam

XS Performance Piston & Rings Std.

Kibble-White valves, bronze guides & spring kit - Hoos Racing

Std BS 34 carbs, jetted w/4“ stacks

Barnett clutch & Springs - Hoos

Heiden Filters, sump & oil delivery pipe

VAPE ignition & charging - Hoos

Exhaust – Pandemonium Double D



Electrics – MotoGadget M Unit Blue, M Button & Disc bar-end signals

TC Bros. Main Switch, taillight

Lowbrow Customs bar switches, battery box

eBay headlight

Kuryakyn Atto rear signals



Controls – Kustom Tech Clutch, brake, throttle & mirror

Hugh’s Handbuilt r. brake pivot

Biltwell Tracker bars 5” rise & grips

Lowbrow 1” risers, pullback

V-Star Floorboards, shifter & brake pedal



Front Wheel – '76 Goldwing hub, disc & speedo drive

19” WM3 Borrani rim

Buchanan SS spokes

Brembo caliper – Pandemonium – homemade mount

Shinko WW 4.00x 19

Rear Wheel – '67 CB77 “305 Superhawk” hub w/DLS brake & cable

16” 3.00 Borrani

Buchanan SS spokes

Shinko WW 5.10 x 16



Tins – TC Bros. rear fender

Drag Specialties seat & springs

Lowbrow fender struts

Homemade fuel tank w Lowbrow bungs, caps and TC bros. petcocks

Fabrication, paint, powder coating, electrical & mechanical by owner.
I can't find the link you put up about the floorboards. Can you direct me.?
 
I can't find the link you put up about the floorboards. Can you direct me.?
The floorboards are OEM Yamaha V-Star 1100 Classic CMSNL.com or partzilla.com. The R. brake switch & mount was removed from right board mount and installed on the frame to work off the pivot lever
 
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