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Vintage style bobber build
- Thread starter jpdevol
- Start date
Build features list:
Frame - Voodoo Vintage Model VI
Front End – Voodoo Vintage Relic 20” Mid
Motor – '82 XS650
Hugh’s Handbuilt 277 Crank & Cam
XS Performance Piston & Rings Std.
Kibble-White valves, bronze guides & spring kit - Hoos Racing
Std BS 34 carbs, jetted w/4“ stacks
Barnett clutch & Springs - Hoos
Heiden Filters, sump & oil delivery pipe
VAPE ignition & charging - Hoos
Exhaust – Pandemonium Double D
Electrics – MotoGadget M Unit Blue, M Button & Disc bar-end signals
TC Bros. Main Switch, taillight
Lowbrow Customs bar switches, battery box
eBay headlight
Kuryakyn Atto rear signals
Controls – Kustom Tech Clutch, brake, throttle & mirror
Hugh’s Handbuilt r. brake pivot
Biltwell Tracker bars 5” rise & grips
Lowbrow 1” risers, pullback
V-Star Floorboards, shifter & brake pedal
Front Wheel – '76 Goldwing hub, disc & speedo drive
19” WM3 Borrani rim
Buchanan SS spokes
Brembo caliper – Pandemonium – homemade mount
Shinko WW 4.00x 19
Rear Wheel – '67 CB77 “305 Superhawk” hub w/DLS brake & cable
16” 3.00 Borrani
Buchanan SS spokes
Shinko WW 5.10 x 16
Tins – TC Bros. rear fender
Drag Specialties seat & springs
Lowbrow fender struts
Homemade fuel tank w Lowbrow bungs, caps and TC bros. petcocks
Fabrication, paint, powder coating, electrical & mechanical by owner.
Frame - Voodoo Vintage Model VI
Front End – Voodoo Vintage Relic 20” Mid
Motor – '82 XS650
Hugh’s Handbuilt 277 Crank & Cam
XS Performance Piston & Rings Std.
Kibble-White valves, bronze guides & spring kit - Hoos Racing
Std BS 34 carbs, jetted w/4“ stacks
Barnett clutch & Springs - Hoos
Heiden Filters, sump & oil delivery pipe
VAPE ignition & charging - Hoos
Exhaust – Pandemonium Double D
Electrics – MotoGadget M Unit Blue, M Button & Disc bar-end signals
TC Bros. Main Switch, taillight
Lowbrow Customs bar switches, battery box
eBay headlight
Kuryakyn Atto rear signals
Controls – Kustom Tech Clutch, brake, throttle & mirror
Hugh’s Handbuilt r. brake pivot
Biltwell Tracker bars 5” rise & grips
Lowbrow 1” risers, pullback
V-Star Floorboards, shifter & brake pedal
Front Wheel – '76 Goldwing hub, disc & speedo drive
19” WM3 Borrani rim
Buchanan SS spokes
Brembo caliper – Pandemonium – homemade mount
Shinko WW 4.00x 19
Rear Wheel – '67 CB77 “305 Superhawk” hub w/DLS brake & cable
16” 3.00 Borrani
Buchanan SS spokes
Shinko WW 5.10 x 16
Tins – TC Bros. rear fender
Drag Specialties seat & springs
Lowbrow fender struts
Homemade fuel tank w Lowbrow bungs, caps and TC bros. petcocks
Fabrication, paint, powder coating, electrical & mechanical by owner.
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Very nice bike! That is a wild front end. Is that custom made? Welcome to the forum from Victoria, BC!
My question answered.
Outstanding !!
Truly gorgeous build.
I love the design concept of an early board tracker.
Unusal and very clean.
Obviously loaded with top shelf parts..
But far more than that the quality of your paint, powdercoat and design make the machine gleam.
You definitely have a stunning example.
Would love to see a build thread on this; even if it is done post-build. I'm sure that there are many nuggets to be absorbed. Regardless I would like to thank you for sharing.
Truly gorgeous build.
I love the design concept of an early board tracker.
Unusal and very clean.
Obviously loaded with top shelf parts..
But far more than that the quality of your paint, powdercoat and design make the machine gleam.
You definitely have a stunning example.
Would love to see a build thread on this; even if it is done post-build. I'm sure that there are many nuggets to be absorbed. Regardless I would like to thank you for sharing.
Mr. Bluz - I don't tend to take many pictures as I'm working, but I do have some. If there is a particular aspect you're interested in, I'd be happy to add as I can.
I just find the process of the builds as interesting as the end results quite often. What issues arise and how the builder solves/overcomes them.
The one thing of great interest on your bike would be the homemade gas tank. Mainly because it is hand built and not bought.
Also not something that is not seen regularly and might prove both interesting and inspirational.
How you came to use that design and how you templated it before assembling the final product.
Feel free to showcase your work with any pics you have. It is very worthy and most all members here love pics.
The one thing of great interest on your bike would be the homemade gas tank. Mainly because it is hand built and not bought.
Also not something that is not seen regularly and might prove both interesting and inspirational.
How you came to use that design and how you templated it before assembling the final product.
Feel free to showcase your work with any pics you have. It is very worthy and most all members here love pics.
I agree the process is something of battling problems; most often the object fights every step of the way, testing perseverance. The tanks were my biggest test ever. Fortunately, I did take some pics.
I had originally planned to use a standard “peanut tank” as the pics of the curved backbone frame led me to assume there would be a lot of room for a “low-tunnel” model, slung low on the frame. Once I mounted the motor, it became apparent there was little room (pic attached). The curvature of the backbone prevents most other tanks from mounting properly. I also wanted room under the tank to hide the two coils and two control boxes for the VAPE ignition. I decided to endeavor custom tanks in the ”flat-side” style of the board trackers to solve those issues.
Starting with cardboard mock-ups as patterns, the shape was refined. The desired look included strap mounts that left the backbone showing and allowed the tanks to follow its curve. Most bikes with strap backbone mounts 100 years ago are under the frame. I kept this design just showing the top half of the backbone to give a similar appearance while maximizing capacity given the 5 inched room from mid-backbone to valve cover. The tanks are cushioned from the backbone by neoprene rubber and supported underneath by a block fashioned from “red rubber” sheet mounted to the top rear motor mount. The final tanks are 4 inches tall at the apex by 20” long by 5” wide.
I lucked into the step design at the rear in my attempt to maximize tank capacity. The petcocks won’t clear the top-end of the motor anywhere. The tank’s curve would not allow a petcock tube to fit inside were it not for the step.
My metal brake only has a capacity of 12”, so the top and bottom had the edges bent right-angles in the brake then welded together. The holes for the bungs for mounting, caps and petcocks were then cut using Rotabroach cutters prior to shaping. The inside panels were cut to the cardboard patterns, then pockets for coils and igniter boxes bent and welded in. The curve following the backbone was just gradually bent by hand to conform to the inside panel. The front curve of the top and bottom panels was done on a “T”-dolly using a “slap hammer”. The outside panels were then welded on using “clecos”. Then the bungs were then welded in while injecting shielding gas through the petcock opening.
It's all 16ga sheet MIG welded as I’m not competent at TIG. The welds were then sealed from the outside with Caswell epoxy. I’m not a fan of using it as a tank liner.
Thank goodness they don’t leak, so far! It remains to be seen how durable this whole design and its execution will be.
The paint is House of Kolor; 4 coats of epoxy primer, 2 more coats as sealer, 3 base coats black, 2 coats inter-clear, 3 coats each stripe, inter-clear, and 4 coats of top-coat clear. Lots of sanding before after and in between.
I had originally planned to use a standard “peanut tank” as the pics of the curved backbone frame led me to assume there would be a lot of room for a “low-tunnel” model, slung low on the frame. Once I mounted the motor, it became apparent there was little room (pic attached). The curvature of the backbone prevents most other tanks from mounting properly. I also wanted room under the tank to hide the two coils and two control boxes for the VAPE ignition. I decided to endeavor custom tanks in the ”flat-side” style of the board trackers to solve those issues.
Starting with cardboard mock-ups as patterns, the shape was refined. The desired look included strap mounts that left the backbone showing and allowed the tanks to follow its curve. Most bikes with strap backbone mounts 100 years ago are under the frame. I kept this design just showing the top half of the backbone to give a similar appearance while maximizing capacity given the 5 inched room from mid-backbone to valve cover. The tanks are cushioned from the backbone by neoprene rubber and supported underneath by a block fashioned from “red rubber” sheet mounted to the top rear motor mount. The final tanks are 4 inches tall at the apex by 20” long by 5” wide.
I lucked into the step design at the rear in my attempt to maximize tank capacity. The petcocks won’t clear the top-end of the motor anywhere. The tank’s curve would not allow a petcock tube to fit inside were it not for the step.
My metal brake only has a capacity of 12”, so the top and bottom had the edges bent right-angles in the brake then welded together. The holes for the bungs for mounting, caps and petcocks were then cut using Rotabroach cutters prior to shaping. The inside panels were cut to the cardboard patterns, then pockets for coils and igniter boxes bent and welded in. The curve following the backbone was just gradually bent by hand to conform to the inside panel. The front curve of the top and bottom panels was done on a “T”-dolly using a “slap hammer”. The outside panels were then welded on using “clecos”. Then the bungs were then welded in while injecting shielding gas through the petcock opening.
It's all 16ga sheet MIG welded as I’m not competent at TIG. The welds were then sealed from the outside with Caswell epoxy. I’m not a fan of using it as a tank liner.
Thank goodness they don’t leak, so far! It remains to be seen how durable this whole design and its execution will be.
The paint is House of Kolor; 4 coats of epoxy primer, 2 more coats as sealer, 3 base coats black, 2 coats inter-clear, 3 coats each stripe, inter-clear, and 4 coats of top-coat clear. Lots of sanding before after and in between.
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Very very well written and well executed.
I think that is the first scratch built tank I have seen on the site. I found it very interesting.
I am thinking this bike may get one of my nominations for the community calendar.
Thanks again for sharing.
I think that is the first scratch built tank I have seen on the site. I found it very interesting.
I am thinking this bike may get one of my nominations for the community calendar.
Thanks again for sharing.
Well done! Love the board tracker tank and girder!
Beautiful lines.
Thank you all for the kind words!
Currently, working through necessary carb adjustments and possibly a tweak to ignition timing during this “test ride phase”.
I started ignition timing according to VAPE instructions from the website (most current ?): 40* BTDC by setting the rotor to align actuating plate 41mm from the top pick-up @ TDC left.
As a baseline carb setting, I installed a Dynojet Kit from Mike’s to “phase 3” with my relatively radical intake/exhaust set-up: 45 pilot, 145 main & supplied needle in mid slot.
Started stubbornly, needing more choke time than expected. Synched with carb stick manometer. Idled well.
It ran very ratty (100yd run up the street) and didn’t want to take throttle. Checked instructions that were shipped with VAPE unit (opposed to website) and reset rotor to 43.6mm (plate-to-pick-up) 42.5*. Ran much better, but not right yet – back to carb.
Re-jetted carb based on ride now using Keyster kit; up to 49 pilot (was too much choke time), down to 142 main and now switched needle to Keyster Y503RR mid-clip (stumbly throttle up). Better in all respects, but still not right.
I then read all the poor feedback on Keyster kits here (thank ya’ll) and decided to order a range of genuine Mikuni brass from Niche; pilots, mains, needle & needle jet. No sense in beating my head off the wall using suspect parts.
I’ll report back once a couple of trials are complete.
Currently, working through necessary carb adjustments and possibly a tweak to ignition timing during this “test ride phase”.
I started ignition timing according to VAPE instructions from the website (most current ?): 40* BTDC by setting the rotor to align actuating plate 41mm from the top pick-up @ TDC left.
As a baseline carb setting, I installed a Dynojet Kit from Mike’s to “phase 3” with my relatively radical intake/exhaust set-up: 45 pilot, 145 main & supplied needle in mid slot.
Started stubbornly, needing more choke time than expected. Synched with carb stick manometer. Idled well.
It ran very ratty (100yd run up the street) and didn’t want to take throttle. Checked instructions that were shipped with VAPE unit (opposed to website) and reset rotor to 43.6mm (plate-to-pick-up) 42.5*. Ran much better, but not right yet – back to carb.
Re-jetted carb based on ride now using Keyster kit; up to 49 pilot (was too much choke time), down to 142 main and now switched needle to Keyster Y503RR mid-clip (stumbly throttle up). Better in all respects, but still not right.
I then read all the poor feedback on Keyster kits here (thank ya’ll) and decided to order a range of genuine Mikuni brass from Niche; pilots, mains, needle & needle jet. No sense in beating my head off the wall using suspect parts.
I’ll report back once a couple of trials are complete.
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Great looking bike. Lovely details and nice finish.
Update: after reading carb threads here, I installed some new genuine Mikuni jets. Went with the 336-Y-0 needle jets with 51X11 needles and that was a huge difference from stock (richer) with a "Dyno Tune" kit. Ended-up all the way back to 137.5 main jets and 45 pilots with needle clip in #2 slot (2nd leanest) and 2.5 turns on the fuel screws.
I also found the choke plungers were leaking during all that adjusting, affecting richness and also causing the slides to "flutter" above mid-throttle.
I also suspect that the longer (4") velocity stacks make the carbs more "efficient", allowing leaner jetting (perhaps pulling more fuel) than expected given the exhaust, etc. - my expectation anyway.
Final ignition timing on the VAPE is 40* BTDC @ 3000rpm; runs great all rpm with no popping or miss on or off throttle.
I also found the choke plungers were leaking during all that adjusting, affecting richness and also causing the slides to "flutter" above mid-throttle.
I also suspect that the longer (4") velocity stacks make the carbs more "efficient", allowing leaner jetting (perhaps pulling more fuel) than expected given the exhaust, etc. - my expectation anyway.
Final ignition timing on the VAPE is 40* BTDC @ 3000rpm; runs great all rpm with no popping or miss on or off throttle.
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I will second this vote! The bike has a true spirit of creativity and design. I am sure it represents exactly what you had hoped.
'TT'
Thank you gentlemen! The aesthetics turned-out as planned, the ridi'n part took some getting used to: first rigid. Once I got the tuning accomplished and some seat-time in, I started to relax and enjoy it. Looks, sounds and rides like one would imagine the 1920's. I'm still careful about what roads she goes on - I'm a smooth pavement guy on it. Twisties are ok. Must've had to be a real man to ride these 100yrs ago on those roads!
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I often “update” builds after completion – making improvements – this, though, was a needed fix on the exhaust.
One issue was the Cerakote began flaking-off the pipes after the first good heat-cycle. It was the first time I had used their air-cure “C Series” (rated 1800F), but I don’t know that it’s the fault of the coating. I degreased thoroughly, but did not vapor blast the raw steel prior to coating.
The next issue needing fixed was the Pandemonium “Double D’s” pipes were dumping soot on my nice frame. I’m too much of a “priss” to let that slide, so 3” extensions were needed to get the gases beyond the frame.
I ain’t no pipe-fitter, but here they are welded-up, vapor blasted and ready for a new finish. This time, using Cerakote “V Series”: also rated @ 1800F, but an oven-cured product. I’ve used oven-cure E & H Series stuff before in lower temp. applications with no problems.
And here they are coated, cured and re-mounted. Stay tuned, if my toes now get too warm, we’ll be back with more pipe and a 90* bend.
One issue was the Cerakote began flaking-off the pipes after the first good heat-cycle. It was the first time I had used their air-cure “C Series” (rated 1800F), but I don’t know that it’s the fault of the coating. I degreased thoroughly, but did not vapor blast the raw steel prior to coating.
The next issue needing fixed was the Pandemonium “Double D’s” pipes were dumping soot on my nice frame. I’m too much of a “priss” to let that slide, so 3” extensions were needed to get the gases beyond the frame.
I ain’t no pipe-fitter, but here they are welded-up, vapor blasted and ready for a new finish. This time, using Cerakote “V Series”: also rated @ 1800F, but an oven-cured product. I’ve used oven-cure E & H Series stuff before in lower temp. applications with no problems.
And here they are coated, cured and re-mounted. Stay tuned, if my toes now get too warm, we’ll be back with more pipe and a 90* bend.
There were 4 casualties suffered in the exercise; the rack’s casters didn’t make it. They’d been through several campaigns of previous Cerakote and powder-coat cures, but the V Series schedule is 500F for an hour – obviously exceeding whatever the casters were designed to do.
Those castors have gone all Salvador Dali?
Nice work again JP
