Want to upgrade handlebar controls.

[SickestCycles]

Trying to finish up my build and I'm stuck on these junk levers. Once I can figure this out I can start putting this thing back together so I need some help. The front disc on my bike is junk. It is a 1982 xs650. I am trying to finish this part as cost effectively as possible. What I need is a stock or comparable front disc that I can use with the stock caliper, having a hard time finding that. And a nice clean black brake and clutch lever that match. Like can I just order something like this and a steel brake line and be good? Thanks in advance guys!

https://www.amazon.com/Areyourshop-...r=8-48&keywords=7/8+clutch+and+brake+controls

 

[Signal]

Don't buy anything yet. The master cylinder needs to be sized appropriately for the calliper to provide the right feel at the lever and force on the disc.

Do a search on this forum and then talk to Michael Morse at 650 Central. He is able to provide sound advice and quality products that will work.

When you say your disc is junk is the rotor scored or warped? I have had rotors resurfaced (ground) that were pretty far gone and they came up like new.

 

[DrewMartin]

Like can I just order something like this and a steel brake line and be good? Thanks in advance guys!

https://www.amazon.com/Areyourshop-...r=8-48&keywords=7/8+clutch+and+brake+controls

Those are probably garbage compared to rebuilt OEM. If you're that dead set on them being black I'd try to find a local anodizing outfit that could squeeze these in on their next batch. I've had valve covers for cars done for as little as $10 if I wasn't in a huge rush to get them done.

 

[SickestCycles]

The disc is junk. It got tossed in the sandblast pIle. Looks nice but I'm guessing it's totalled lol

 

[aldo5468]

Signal is right in 2nd post - the master cylinder needs to be matched carefully to the caliper. The 14mm stock m/c is right for dual-rotor front brakes but too large for a single-rotor front brake. If you have a single rotor and are keeping the stock caliper, an 11mm m/c is a good match. Yamaha used a black-coated 11mm m/c on 2000-2004 TW200's, XT225's and TTR250's that has the same mirror mount and brake switch receptacle as the stock 14mm m/c and works with the same brake lever as the stock 14mm m/c - it's plug-and-play if you can find one. With a good quality stainless steel brake line connected directly to the m/c (i.e., bypass the stock brakeline splitter), it's a very easy and useful upgrade. Yamaha part number 4GY-25870-02-00.

 

[Signal]

Without seeing it my guess is that disc is probably salvageable, sand blasting is too harsh, bead blasting is ok.

Take the rotor to an auto engine rebuilder and ask them about resurfacing the disc with a surface grinder.

Before having it ground drill the rotor (plenty of info on that on this site) the end result will work well, looks good and doesn't cost the earth.
See before and after pics below.

 

[XSLeo]

If you shop Ebay. there are several options that will work. The XS750, 850 and 1100 standards used a very similar system. The Specials were very different.
The rotors come slotted, this removes a bit of weight. It also makes the brakes work better.
There are other Yamahas that used the same bolt pattern for the rotors. Some of these other models used the same caliper but with a 5 mm thick slotted rotor. I have two of these on my 75. My 81 has two of the 7 mm thick rotors. What a weight difference. They sure work good though.
I can't list these other models but as you search this web site you will find them listed somewhere.
If you can find one of these 5 mm slotted rotors, rebuild your caliper, basically take it apart and clean it. Get a 10 or 11 mm M/C with a braided stainless steel one piece line and you will have very good brakeing.
Leo

 

[SickestCycles]

So, the rotor that I have was sandblasted with the frame. It looked decent before, can that be saved by turning it you think? I still have the original brake, I'm just looking for something cleaner looking. The bike is going to be kick start only and there are no turn signals or anything so I don't want those big goofy brake and clutch levers. Thank make sense? Thanks for the help guys!

 

[Signal]

I have read that resurfacing stock XS discs in a lathe is problematic, they need to be ground.
The best person to ask if it is possible to resurface the disc you have is the grinder. The guy who did mine (actually he did 4) said it was only possible due to the thickness of the disc (7mm early 6mm later) new thin rotors on bikes these days cannot be ground as they warp during the grinding process.

 

[SickestCycles]

Ok I will see if I can get the disc redone. As far as the controls go. Will these work then. They have a 14mm master cylinder...
Hanpearl Universal Motorcycle 7/8" 22mm Handlebar Brake Master Cylinder Clutch Lever Left & Right Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KJXS3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_A0hzxbT8P33B4

 

[SickestCycles]

If that doesn't work can someone get me shopping list here lol. My project is held up here bc of these controls. Brake and clutch lever, and if I have to upgrade the disc what all do I need to do that? I really appreciate it.

 

[Signal]

Aldo has pretty much covered all of this in his post.
Shopping and to do list.
11mm Master cylinder as Aldo suggests in Post 5 or any other 11mm one you like the look of.

Vesrah brake pads #BMAR20-5000 from 650 central. Not all Vesrah compounds work as well as these pads.

Braded steel line to provide better feedback at the lever.
These are tricky to bleed, pull in the brake lever, tape it in place and leave it overnight; this lets the micro bubbles out of the line through the pressure relief hole in the master cylinder.

Any clutch lever and perch that takes your fancy, do you need a mirror mount?

http://650central.com/

There is numerous threads (17 pages full) worth on brakes on this site if you need to replace your standard rotor.