Welded Frame, Bike wont start.

That much drop is pretty typical. Once the ignition is turned on the rotor puts a big load on the battery.
Why I suggested unplugging the voltage regulator, that removes the rotor load while testing, troubleshooting..
 
Keep testing LOL.
Most troubleshooting is testing for, eliminating possible problems til you either find the problem, or there's only one thing left that could be the issue.
Take the time to grab a pencil and paper, write down what you have and haven't done. Then concentrate on the items you don't know for SURE are working.
 
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You can unplug regulator at it's block connector. The 11.67 volts you're getting is sufficient to run the ignition. The cause of drop we can work on next. Seeing spark would be nice at this point!

If you want to put an extra sparkplug in a cap and ground it to the head good - may show spark even if it doesn't start right away while cranking
 
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nikiforova said:
I like this. Ill have to give it a go. My current readings are pretty not great
-Battery 12.33
-ignition fuse 11.67
-Coil 11.67
-Power to harness 11.67
However, both the coil and harness volts drop once they are plugged in. I guess its time to clean/replace those terminals and their connectors
Click to expand...
By harness I presume the Gonzo harness. If that's the case, your wiring is good*. Some voltage will drop when coils plugged in is normal. Now, some voltage drop when connecting gonzo is normal, you mentioned perhaps a 2V drop - I don't think that's gonna be normal. Folks who speak Gonzo need to comment.

* mostly good for current purposes - switch contact and connector cleaning may be in order later
 
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Disconnected the regulator, plugged an extra plug into the cap, grounded it at the engine, tried to crank and start, no spark. Tried both sides, and flipped polarity. things of note:
My harness connected to gonzo, when turned on volts read
-r/w: 10.5
-orange: 1.5-1.6
-Pickups (w/r, b/w):1
Not sure if this is normal. Being that we didnt get any sparks with the regulator disconnected, id imagine that it is okay. Are we back to the TCI? Maybe the Gonzo is wired incorrectly
 
Perhaps -I'd like a Gonzo expert to weigh in before you:banghead:

You've supplied good pertinent info there.

Also, I finally have sunshine I'll be off for a bit:bike:
 
Still not read through
Just thinking out loud here TCI bike means you have multiple fuses in the fuse box remove all except ignition and main
leave the regulator unplugged .read what voltage you have in at the ignition box and feel free look for a spark with grounded plug
If you ask me it needs be 11.5 or more ..
 
Jan_P said:
Still not read through
Just thinking out loud here TCI bike means you have multiple fuses in the fuse box remove all except ignition and main
leave the regulator unplugged .read what voltage you have in at the ignition box and feel free look for a spark with grounded plug
If you ask me it needs be 11.5 or more ..
Click to expand...
Once more I ran into the same problem. With just the main and ignition fuses I am still experiencing a large drop once the bikes harness is connected to the gonzo. The harness reads 12.4v when disconnected, but once I connect it the the gonzo it reads 10.35v. Could this be because of bad wiring done by me?
 
nikiforova said:
Once more I ran into the same problem. With just the main and ignition fuses I am still experiencing a large drop once the bikes harness is connected to the gonzo. The harness reads 12.4v when disconnected, but once I connect it the the gonzo it reads 10.35v. Could this be because of bad wiring done by me?
Click to expand...
Not read through ..have other papers I need to read
Are we talking through ignition lock and so ??
This is why I jump power to the important places My guess is a Voltage drop in the ignition lock kill switch or headlamp grommet
But work on it .....get 12 .5 at the coil and box look for spark.
Ground and power and then we take it from there.
 
Do you have a battery charger?
Back of my mind all along in this thread, has been a battery with a bad cell.
Load test the battery, charge it fully then hook up a tail light or turn signal bulb, let it burn for 15 minutes. you should still be seeing above 12 volts out of the battery.
a quick 2 volt drop is a strong hint you have a weak cell in the battery.
 
gggGary said:
Do you have a battery charger?
Back of my mind all along in this thread, has been a battery with a bad cell.
Load test the battery, charge it fully then hook up a tail light or turn signal bulb, let it burn for 15 minutes. you should still be seeing above 12 volts out of the battery.
a quick 2 volt drop is a strong hint you have a weak cell in the battery.
Click to expand...
I do have a charger. the battery is a brand new 14v that hasnt done me wrong before i welded the frame. it wouldnt hesitate at all on startup. Ill try to load test it. The battery doesnt drop any significant voltage. I have it charged to 13.35 and im getting 12 volts elsewhere, just not at the ignition connector.
 
nikiforova said:
Once more I ran into the same problem. With just the main and ignition fuses I am still experiencing a large drop once the bikes harness is connected to the gonzo. The harness reads 12.4v when disconnected, but once I connect it the the gonzo it reads 10.35v. Could this be because of bad wiring done by me?
Click to expand...
You've just re-confirmed the 2V drop from Gonzo. As Gary said, batteries with bad cell will check good, then puke when load applied - an item to follow-up, even though new.

Bad Gonzo?? still a question
 
Still thinking out loud without read through but on some year models there is a connection from rectifier in to between main fuse and ignition Lock
I would probably disconnect the rectifier so it dont short to ground if a diode is shorting.
 
jpdevol said:
You've just re-confirmed the 2V drop from Gonzo. As Gary said, batteries with bad cell will check good, then puke when load applied - an item to follow-up, even though new.

Bad Gonzo?? still a question
Click to expand...
gggGary said:
Do you have a battery charger?
Back of my mind all along in this thread, has been a battery with a bad cell.
Load test the battery, charge it fully then hook up a tail light or turn signal bulb, let it burn for 15 minutes. you should still be seeing above 12 volts out of the battery.
a quick 2 volt drop is a strong hint you have a weak cell in the battery.
Click to expand...
i got both of ya. My battery is still well within the warranty period so I'll pick up a new one when I get off work today.
 
nikiforova said:
i got both of ya. My battery is still well within the warranty period so I'll pick up a new one when I get off work today.
Click to expand...
Okay yall, new agm battery charged up andd...... same problem. coil and tci harness get 11.66v and then plugged in get about 9.8
 
Would you PULEEZE! quit spending money every time we make a suggestion?
We suggest you TEST your battery, and you go buy a new one.
The old school definition of trouble shooting in short:
figure out what's actually broke before you go buy partz.
At one time my signature was; "You cannot BUY your way to a good running XS, you'll go broke first."
 

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