Welded Frame, Bike wont start.

jpdevol

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LOL, don't wanna take a break - have a beer maybe?

Next, see if you can adjust idle down to around 1100
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Jim

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Yeah, get the idle down to a manageable level then we can address timing checks.


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nikiforova

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Yeah I’ve synched my carbs before i killed the tci. Im sipping on some whiskey, but im about to get to it. And yeah my choke cable is all out of whack on my carbs….. not sure when that happened.
 

Jan_P

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Congratulations
My first assumption after a sloppy reading is that your stock Yamaha original TCI is still working ..but I can be wrong
but don't throw it away.
And the video with some throttle blipping can give us an idea where the ignition is at
 

jpdevol

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Congratulations
My first assumption after a sloppy reading is that your stock Yamaha original TCI is still working ..but I can be wrong
but don't throw it away.
And the video with some throttle blipping can give us an idea where the ignition is at
Perhaps - a decent reading of posts 1-76 should reveal a "by the book" elimination of other possibilities and that is all one can do. There is no test for TCI itself other than replace with known good unit.
 

Jan_P

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Perhaps - a decent reading of posts 1-76 should reveal a "by the book" elimination of other possibilities and that is all one can do. There is no test for TCI itself other than replace with known good unit.

Yes Sir .. but there is actually a much simpler cheaper test .. one winter day when nothing is on the TV. Not now when the bike is running
Plug it in see what happens ...now that the rest of the wiring is OK ( Not read through so apologize if missed something )
 

nikiforova

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Yall..... im upset. I had a few drinks came home and went to start it to tune and nothing. no power to the fuses, starter solenoid, no lights, nothing. As if I hadnt turned the key. Battery is fully charged, replaced all the fuses, tried another known good battery and got nothing. I think its the ignition switch? it felt soft and like there was no affiirmitive click that it moved positions.... the worst part, I went to remove the ignition switch to inspect and the 10mm bolts sheared straight in half.
 

Jan_P

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Well the method has been presented if no power then we work to get it. .
Are you sure it was a 10 mm bolt you sheared off that takes some force and I cant remember such large screws there ......
Not that easy to do.
If nothing on the fuses there is a large connector only a short distance from the fuse box please check that one
 

nikiforova

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Well the method has been presented if no power then we work to get it. .
Are you sure it was a 10 mm bolt you sheared off that takes some force and I cant remember such large screws there ......
Not that easy to do.
If nothing on the fuses there is a large connector only a short distance from the fuse box please check that one
Yeah ive got a few tthings to look at now that ive had some sleep. Feeling optimistic today
 

nikiforova

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That kinda reinforces the thought that you have high resistance somewhere... iggy or kill switch.... or the fuse block.
There's a how to here (in Tech?) on disassembling the iggy switch and cleaning it. I'd suggest doing that while you're waiting. Do the same for the kill switch... which is sorta self explanatory.

There's tons of choices out there for fuse blocks. I'm using one similar to this one. If you're looking for a dependable ride (who isn't), might as well get these items out of the way.



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So my replica fuse box is not working at all. I ended up grabbing one just like this, but I am a bit confused. since they only have one pole per fuse, how to I connect both wires found on the glass fuses to the single pole here?
 

Jim

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I went to remove the ignition switch to inspect and the 10mm bolts sheared straight in half.
Fasteners, bolts screws etc are sized by their shank, not the head. The bolts you're referring to are 6mm. It's a small but important distinction... torque charts and references are based on shank diameter. Torqueing a 6mm bolt to 10mm specs will shear it every time.

Also.... those 6mm bolts are installed upside down. Based on my years teaching mechanics, I can say it's very common for a freshly minted mechanic to turn fasteners the wrong direction when faced with inverted and or awkward orientations. That's not to say you did that Niki, only that it's not unusual.... in fact, it's fairly common when learning.

Back to your power loss...
two methods of finding lost power. Grab your meter and wiring diagram. Start at the battery and follow the circuit out, measuring the 12v until it's lost.
The other method is starting at the point where it's gone and following the circuit back 'till you find it.
Easy peasy.... right? :sneaky:
 

jpdevol

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6mm x ~20mm bolt (10mm hex head) upside down into top triple clamp.
 

jpdevol

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Hopefully, the way the switch flange is situated there will be a nub left to get hold of with vise-grips
 

Jan_P

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Apologize if this i to simple ..but when it comes to DC Current and Voltage one can se it as a top down system
12 V to 0 V
If you think of it as a garden hose the 12 V is the faucet ..and the 0 is your wife s beautiful price winning roses.

Now with the fat hamburger loving 250 lb Neighbor stepping on the Hose then no water comes to the roses.
you need to remove him.
Or some hooligan cuts off the hose the roses don't get any water.
Or another villain has punched a hole in the hose .. The roses can get a little water but not enough.

In electricity the term is open circuit when a fuse has blown or the wire / circuit is broken cut off.
no water to the roses

But in electricity the current ( as do water ) chose the easiest way down to 0 earth
And for an ignition the sub 11.5 is the hole in the water hose or the fat dude standing on the hose.

You need to kick the fat dude in the behind getting him off the hose. and patch the hose..

You need to Have an uninterrupted .. closed circuit no holes and no fat dude, ( In principle )
That lets the electricity out to ground via another path than the wire and TCI + Coils .

Another dumb basic question --You do have fuses OR in the new fuse Box... ???
 

Jim

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So my replica fuse box is not working at all. I ended up grabbing one just like this, but I am a bit confused. since they only have one pole per fuse, how to I connect both wires found on the glass fuses to the single pole here?
From the ignition (key) switch, power goes out to the fuse box on the brown wire. At some point in the harness Yamaha spliced/split it into 3 wires for individual fuses (red circle).


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Now, you can hunt for that splice and cut it back to a single wire or do as I did.... recombine them into a single terminal to connect to the new fuse block.


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The spade terminals on the fuse block then go out to the individual circuits...


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I modified my fuse block to incorporate the 20a MAIN fuse. your block isn't set up like that. Hang on and I'll get you more info on what to do.
 
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