Let's see your timing light. It one of those newfangled devices where you can adjust the degrees where the light fires?
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Welded Frame, Bike wont start.
- Thread starter nikiforova
- Start date
I
I think that is an excellent idea a video of that with the stock box
Jumping can be dangerous and fry things it also matters what type ignition lock is there.
I don't want to cause that.
On my 1980 there are 2 functions so it is not straightforward to Jump the positive.
Measure voltage in is probably safer and simpler as Mr Grizids version
If you try to jump I would go for a Gonzo box and an inline fuse and a switch ON / OFF.
With some instructions from the Gonzo Boys.
And dont leave it ON ..after the test.
I think that is an excellent idea a video of that with the stock box
Jumping can be dangerous and fry things it also matters what type ignition lock is there.
I don't want to cause that.
On my 1980 there are 2 functions so it is not straightforward to Jump the positive.
Measure voltage in is probably safer and simpler as Mr Grizids version
If you try to jump I would go for a Gonzo box and an inline fuse and a switch ON / OFF.
With some instructions from the Gonzo Boys.
And dont leave it ON ..after the test.
nikiforova
XS650 Addict
Let's see your timing light. It one of those newfangled devices where you can adjust the degrees where the light fires?
Yes it is, it’s this one https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai...ue-N_MH5AhXLIDQIHfMfDuoQzzkoAHoECAQQCg&adurl=
Yes it is, it’s this one https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai...ue-N_MH5AhXLIDQIHfMfDuoQzzkoAHoECAQQCg&adurl=
Make sure it's set to zero and shoot it again.
My English was not good enough
What I was after was a video with the stock last box and that thing blinking
I am thinking that even with a partial short circuit somewhere It would ignite at the right spot
provided the timing is Right
What I was after was a video with the stock last box and that thing blinking
I am thinking that even with a partial short circuit somewhere It would ignite at the right spot
provided the timing is Right
nikiforova
XS650 Addict
Hey all, I had someone from the shop look at my bike because he refurbs xs650s for years. One of the things he pointed out was that the magnet on the stator seemed really weak and recommended adding another one on. Got one, checked that the pickup would clear it and jb welded it on. Cant try to run the bike until tomorrow when it drys though. Also my rh carb seems to leak gasoline regularly. My lh doesnt do it, bgut my petcock doesnt seem to want to turn "off"
That's where I thought I was headed with the rotor. Take good care of that guy!
Float seat worn or has a spec of dirt. Some tapping with butt of screwdriver, while leaking, may resolve if latter. Petcock rebuild may be in order.
Float seat worn or has a spec of dirt. Some tapping with butt of screwdriver, while leaking, may resolve if latter. Petcock rebuild may be in order.
Let's see what happens tomorrow when the glue dries. I did this fix to an XS about 6 years ago.
I was just thinking, or was it just a brain fart, is the issue with welding the frame and the TCI just an issue with TIG and high frequency (HF) start? Certainly HF start is a known issue around sensitive electronics, but auto-electronics are usually very robust because they are designed to work in an electrically dirty environment.
I was just thinking, or was it just a brain fart, is the issue with welding the frame and the TCI just an issue with TIG and high frequency (HF) start? Certainly HF start is a known issue around sensitive electronics, but auto-electronics are usually very robust because they are designed to work in an electrically dirty environment.
That's a darn good question! I don't think anyone asked what type of welding. I know I've heard the admonition against welding with transistor components present for a long time; back before TIG and MIG were commonplace with DIY'ers
nikiforova
XS650 Addict
I was flux welding
nikiforova
XS650 Addict
Yep thats correct. I dont know either
nikiforova
XS650 Addict
Okay yall so a few things from today. I got bored and antsy waiting the last 4 hours for jb weld to dry so I pulled out my carbs for a quick inspection. I found my float heights way outta whack and that my float bowl is missing one of the screws. So I now have 1. a leaky petcock (ordered a new one since I have the vacuum one with no vacuum line) and a bowl that leaks. I adjusted my float needles looked fine, but I went ahead and ordered some o rings for good measure. After putting the carbs back on, I setup my light and other goodies and started up the bike.
No change, bike was running rough and not wanting to idle. After the first time it died, I tried to restart it and my battery was below 12 volts, weird I just charged it. So I swapped to a lead acid that is a known good battery, just isnt used, and hooked my agm to the light instead. Starts right up! no black smoke, running better tham before (low bar). Its idle is not exactly smooth, bouncing between 1k-1400. I began to test the charging.
13.9 volts @ 2krpm
I then go to test the timing with my gun at 0 degrees advance and it looks much closer to where its supposed to be, but still a bit retarded. It sits just outside the right line, but advances when throttled.
Im not reaally sure where to go from here. Im about to return my battery for the second time. Maybe jumping the battery with a car (not running) or overcharging this battery caused issue with it? Other than that, I cant really think of a reason it wouldnt want to work. Beyond that, I dont know what to do about the timing still being a bit retarded and the battery charging at 13.8 to 13.9 @2k rpms. It doesnt really break 14.2 at all when running. Not to mention there were a few times that the bike just shut off on my out of nowhere.
No change, bike was running rough and not wanting to idle. After the first time it died, I tried to restart it and my battery was below 12 volts, weird I just charged it. So I swapped to a lead acid that is a known good battery, just isnt used, and hooked my agm to the light instead. Starts right up! no black smoke, running better tham before (low bar). Its idle is not exactly smooth, bouncing between 1k-1400. I began to test the charging.
13.9 volts @ 2krpm
I then go to test the timing with my gun at 0 degrees advance and it looks much closer to where its supposed to be, but still a bit retarded. It sits just outside the right line, but advances when throttled.
Im not reaally sure where to go from here. Im about to return my battery for the second time. Maybe jumping the battery with a car (not running) or overcharging this battery caused issue with it? Other than that, I cant really think of a reason it wouldnt want to work. Beyond that, I dont know what to do about the timing still being a bit retarded and the battery charging at 13.8 to 13.9 @2k rpms. It doesnt really break 14.2 at all when running. Not to mention there were a few times that the bike just shut off on my out of nowhere.
Not rocket Science if you charge the battery outside the bike and it goes down when in the bike
The bike It is not charging or you have a short somewhere that is big.
Can you ask the more experienced man from the shop ensure that your rotor and regulator is OK
And it is actually charging including a inspection of the brushes. getting over 14 V
The bike It is not charging or you have a short somewhere that is big.
Can you ask the more experienced man from the shop ensure that your rotor and regulator is OK
And it is actually charging including a inspection of the brushes. getting over 14 V
The timing looks ok from the video. The idle: could be needs better synchronizing. Verify both fuel screws are 3 turns out as a begining. The charging is either bad ground to black wire at regulator or bad regulator (not connecting black to green inside).
Magnet test on left case still ok?
Magnet test on left case still ok?
nikiforova
XS650 Addict
bad news all. Perhaps this confirms peoples suspicions of a short somewhere, but I went to start it this afternoon after changing nothing from this morning and the battery went up in smoke. Red wire coming from it that goes to the fuse box completely melted along with the wires going into the fuse box. The coil has a primary resistance of 35 and the pickups read 825 and 750. Id imagine my tci box is also probably fried from this, though I dont know because I dont have a functioning ignition system to run the process of elimination.
Im not sure what really happened. This morning everything seemed to be running well and I thought for the first time that significant progress had been made, but I guess I thought too soon. Huge fucking bummer today
Im not sure what really happened. This morning everything seemed to be running well and I thought for the first time that significant progress had been made, but I guess I thought too soon. Huge fucking bummer today
The charging rotor. What is the resistance between the copper rings? It should be about 5 ohms. If it's shorted, the battery will go dead in a heartbeat, and before it does, it's going to run like shit.
That is a bummer and a wild occurrence. I would think the damage stopped @ the fuses - should all be popped. If the fuses aren't popped, then the short occured somewhere between the fuse box and battery (-)
Pondering how it got to ignition, except through ground side
Pondering how it got to ignition, except through ground side
A bad short will not have done any damage to your TCI, or any other items. All that will be damaged is some wiring and any item the short occurred in e.g. if the short was internal to the regulator/rectifier then it was dead anyway. The other positive part is this short will lead you to that intermittent fault that has been a curse on your bike.
Stay positive...
Stay positive...
A bad short will not have done any damage to your TCI, or any other items. All that will be damaged is some wiring and any item the short occurred in e.g. if the short was internal to the regulator/rectifier then it was dead anyway. The other positive part is this short will lead you to that intermittent fault that has been a curse on your bike.
Stay positive...
Yeah.... what Paul said. Chase the melted wire out to the end. Somehwere's down there will be your short. All.... and I mean all the power went through there. As long as it isn't the TCI box, it's fine.
It's a setback. Clear your head, take deep breaths.... and move forward. You got this.
