Welded Frame, Bike wont start.

A dual coil has what's referred to as a "floating" secondary. In other words, it's not grounded. You're not supposed to get continuity 'tween the HT leads and any other wire.
Pull the plug caps off (they need replacing anyway) and connect from one HT lead to the other.
 
Did you re-check coils per Jim's instructions (rather than mine) and still get open reading?
 
Did you re-check coils per Jim's instructions (rather than mine) and still get open reading?
It seems like no matter how I try to measure it, there’s nothing getting to the plug cap
 

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It seems like no matter how I try to measure it, there’s nothing getting to the plug cap
Well, even though you're measuring through the caps rather than leads themselves, that indicates the coil secondary winding is bad. That is the most fortunate result if the welding did that. The other potential victims are much more $ and harder to find. You have a good reading on the pickup coils. The TCI Igniter Unit is still in question. I'm hoping for the best.
 
It seems like no matter how I try to measure it, there’s nothing getting to the plug cap
Sec resistance is (should be) about 13kΩ
Each cap should be about 5kΩ
That puts you at about 23kΩ
Your meter is set to the 2000Ω scale
Math-wise, we ain't addin' up.
Set your meter to the 200kΩ scale and you might see something.
Or... do as I suggested previously and remove the caps so you can see what the sec actually has. They're most likely shot anyway if they're original.
 
Additional note - Noticed in pic you're on wrong scale, set at 200K Ohm
 
Those look to be NGK plug caps (LB05F) so they're probably OK. They are pretty bulletproof. The "05" in the model number indicates they are 5K ohm resistance caps. But, if you remove them, you can measure through them to check the resistance and verify they're still good.
 
Those look to be NGK plug caps (LB05F) so they're probably OK. They are pretty bulletproof. The "05" in the model number indicates they are 5K ohm resistance caps. But, if you remove them, you can measure through them to check the resistance and verify they're still good.
And if they are replaced, there's no guarantee it was done correctly. Pull 'em off, cut the HT leads back a half inch or so and reinstall 'em correctly.
 
Sec resistance is (should be) about 13kΩ
Each cap should be about 5kΩ
That puts you at about 23kΩ
Your meter is set to the 2000Ω scale
Math-wise, we ain't addin' up.
Set your meter to the 200kΩ scale and you might see something.
Or... do as I suggested previously and remove the caps so you can see what the sec actually has. They're most likely shot anyway if they're original.
Yeah Im still not getting a reading on it.
 
Caps off straight on the lead im reading 11.96 with my multimeter set to 20k ohms, but when i put the caps on im getting nothing. Sorry that wasnt clear at all before
12kΩ is within tolerance for the coil.
If you get nothing with the caps on, either one or both is bad (open) or they're not installed correctly.
Did you bump the range to 200k when you had the caps on?
 
Yeah even with it bumped up I get no reading with the caps on. The weird thing is, I had this bike up and running with minor issues before welding and changed nothing else on the bike. Its weird that the caps being on is now an issue
 
While they were off, did you measure through the caps to test/check them? It should be about 5K ohms if they're good. And when you install the caps, here's a good way to prep the ends of the wires to insure a good connection .....

Plug Wire End.jpg
 
While they were off, did you measure through the caps to test/check them? It should be about 5K ohms if they're good. And when you install the caps, here's a good way to prep the ends of the wires to insure a good connection .....

View attachment 220673
Im at a loss for words........ caps on reading 12.91 @20k and 22.1 @200k. Guess they were never set up right to begin with. Gonna give it a test here in a minute. Decided to put new handle bars on today and let my battery charge on up.
 
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