Welded Frame, Bike wont start.

Give us some pics of the wiring as you dissect please?
 
Give us some pics of the wiring as you dissect please?
Hey y’all, thanks for all the words of encouragement!! Means a lot. So the short went from the positive terminal, to the red wire to the fuse box and ended there. No fuses blown, nothing from there on out. I caught it just as it happened and it didn’t travel any further. Didn’t take any pics as I was panicking. I put some connectors on the burnt wire after cutting it back and I get power to the rest of the bike. I’m gonna check my coil once more here in a second. I’m hoping I just got a bad primary reading the first time
 
Hey y’all, thanks for all the words of encouragement!! Means a lot. So the short went from the positive terminal, to the red wire to the fuse box and ended there. No fuses blown, nothing from there on out. I caught it just as it happened and it didn’t travel any further. Didn’t take any pics as I was panicking. I put some connectors on the burnt wire after cutting it back and I get power to the rest of the bike. I’m gonna check my coil once more here in a second. I’m hoping I just got a bad primary reading the first time
I took a step back and welded up a bolt in battery box and electronics tray for under my seat. Feeling a bit better. I feel like I have a much better understanding of this bike from the past two weeks and like I’m not entirely lost, just discouraged
 
Hey y’all, thanks for all the words of encouragement!! Means a lot. So the short went from the positive terminal, to the red wire to the fuse box and ended there. No fuses blown, nothing from there on out. I caught it just as it happened and it didn’t travel any further. Didn’t take any pics as I was panicking. I put some connectors on the burnt wire after cutting it back and I get power to the rest of the bike. I’m gonna check my coil once more here in a second. I’m hoping I just got a bad primary reading the first time
I guess I did just get a bad reading! Coil primary and secondary seems in check and so does the pickups. Huh guess it’s not that big of a deal. Scarier than it seemed. Back to checking the reg, what should I look for here
 
I'd generally suggest replacing the battery positive lead and the fuse box, just as good practice. Check battery negative lead for damage. There should be some evidence of where the actual short occurred (wires, frame, battery box). We would like pics of after the damage if possible
 
I guess I did just get a bad reading! Coil primary and secondary seems in check and so does the pickups. Huh guess it’s not that big of a deal. Scarier than it seemed. Back to checking the reg, what should I look for here
If the reg. is working, should see 14+ (14.5) @ 2000rpm.
 
Attached is charging system checks per book. Not much of a test for regulator rectifier, other than shown. In practice, if magnetic test Left side cover and voltage output are good - it's good - otherwise its bad IIRC
 

Attachments

  • img051.pdf
    961.1 KB · Views: 71
I'd generally suggest replacing the battery positive lead and the fuse box, just as good practice. Check battery negative lead for damage. There should be some evidence of where the actual short occurred (wires, frame, battery box). We would like pics of after the damage if possible
I replaced the positive lead and the ground. I have a spare fuse box so I’ll replace that tomorrow. I investigated a bit and it seems like the red wire coming out of the positive terminal was the main damage and took some others around it as collateral. Here’s a pic, I didn’t look much more since it got dark and I’m exhausted
 

Attachments

  • F329BA96-9BA2-4569-AD3D-7E2B610797EB.jpeg
    F329BA96-9BA2-4569-AD3D-7E2B610797EB.jpeg
    305.9 KB · Views: 68
Not read through so Apologize if missed something
We can do this ..but we cant do it without some solid facts going in to the thinking
People here has + 40 years experience and looked for electrical problems almost every year

You obviously found a short circuit.

I have shorted a battery myself many years ago power to the frame and the sensations where there
If it is upstream from fuses most likely it is OK .bare some wires that needs replacing
And the battery perhaps is Also OK ...

Not sure if mentioned but when the welding was performed it can be a good idea to inspect the wires close to that point and under.
So the heat has not melted some cabling.

We have measurement that are not consistent and the recommendation to buy a new one has been given .It can also be a weak battery in the one you have
But a reasonable good one can be Bought at a Auto supply shop $ 10 --$ 15
https://www.biltema.fi/en-fi/tools/...nts/multimeters/digital-multimeter-2000018521

And I believe you need a cheap Voltmeter to install .Across the battery being there while fault finding .You will want one sooner or later anyhow
Dont cost much and are easy to connect
The Gentlemen in the US can give an advice what is available and working in the US. I prefer an analogue one. Because they are quicker to read by a quick look.

Something like that

https://www.biltema.fi/en-fi/car---mc/electrical-system/gauges/voltmeter-analogue-2000042024

two wires One from + on battery and one from - on the battery and hang it up somewhere with a Zip tie or simpler where it dont touch any metal
Have it hanging there while fault finding.

Might cost you $ 20 --30 but fault finding is not easy and I cannot guarantee we can find it. Not even experts can do it
Not even factory mechanics can do it if it is an intermittent Mean fault.

But hauling it to a shop and the money goes .If they even take it on ----not all do that here. So please cooperate making it simpler for us.
And then you have good contacts at the shop .
I dont believe you will get a better offer cost / quality .. wise .But we need info / facts / videos / pictures / measurements
 
Hey yall. Ive spent the last two days trying to find this short and i cant seem to locate it. My ignition fuse keeps blowing. Ive tried disconnecting the coil, pickups, regulator, alternator, and tci box. Ive replaced the r/w wires and inspected the rest starter relay and starter switch wires, still fuse blows. im not sure where else to look, Ive tracked down and checked both r/w wires to the fuse box and they look okay.
 
Replace your main fuse with a bulb.
Pull everything off the harness. Put things back one by one, until the bulb lights up - you've found your short.
If the bulb lights up with nothing connected, the short is IN the harness, either to another wire or to the frame. Favourite location for that is where the harness snugs around the steering stem.
 
So then isolate the circuit by pulling the fuse first and as a precaution disconnect the R/W @ solenoid. Then set meter to Ohms x1.
Turn key and kill switches on and check continuity to ground. I'd start at solenoid and work backwards disconnecting at each connector as you go through switches clear back to fuse box

Lol - Dave's method works too. More than one way to skin it (pun)
 
I was to slow fine suggestions above put it here anyways

Maybe in the ignition switch which had problems
headlight. bucket kill switch .
If coils are disconnected there is a wire open into the air
Voltmeter on resistance one probe on that open end the other touching the headlight bucket and other metal parts
frame and - on the battery.
Should read infinity.

Just so we are on the same page only two fuses in Main and ignition and the ignition fuse blows ??
 
Hey yall. Ive spent the last two days trying to find this short and i cant seem to locate it. My ignition fuse keeps blowing. Ive tried disconnecting the coil, pickups, regulator, alternator, and tci box. Ive replaced the r/w wires and inspected the rest starter relay and starter switch wires, still fuse blows. im not sure where else to look, Ive tracked down and checked both r/w wires to the fuse box and they look okay.
That ignition feed from the fuse goes to quiet a few places that will need isolating. I'd disconnect everything circled, then reconnect one at a time 'till the short returns. Let us know what connector that is and we'll go from there.



Untitled.png
 
Now 4 ways to skin it (I like the last , Jim's so smart!) lol
 
Now 4 ways to skin it (I like the last , Jim's so smart!) lol
Dave and I are saying about the same thing. To Dave's suggestion.... I remember seeing where a guy hacked a fuse and soldered a 5w bulb to it. Made the perfect little short finder... brilliant.
 
I would like to add ..if this is not a stock wiring can have other colors and other wiring ... it helps to have a roll of tape and a marker pen
so if you disconnect a wire or connector ,I put a piece of tape around both wire ends with the same number on it
and do so for the others . I disconnect
Should something not go according to plan the reconnecting takes only a fraction of the time it does if no markup has been
done. It will take a little longer time disconnect .. But saves a lot at the reconnection.
 
Back in the day......I was a pup...there was this mechanic @ local shop - one of the best, fastest line mech's ever. He was semi-literate though, so when it came to wiring issues he'd "jumper the fuse and watch for the smoke" Lol (really). When he first started work, the backlog was 3 months, after a month, it was a week.
 
Back
Top