Welded Frame, Bike wont start.

If you're getting power and ground at the headlight connector, then the bulb must be bad. Unusual for them (both Hi Lo) to go at same time
 
If you're getting power and ground at the headlight connector, then the bulb must be bad. Unusual for them (both Hi Lo) to go at same time
So it seems to come on here and there, but not reliably. Bad ground in the handlebars maybe? I thought it wasn’t working and my bike started dying, turns out my high beam just decided to work and it was draining my battery!
 
Are any of the factory relays (etc) still in the headlight circuit?

The ground to handlebars typically goes from headlight bucket to the LH switch housing via black wire
 
Last edited:
Are any of the factory relays (etc) still in the headlight circuit?
nope I have power going from my fuse box, green going to hi/lo and one ground at the frame and one ground in the left hand controls
My tail light which is wired very similarly doesn’t experience this problem
 
Post #433 Wiring in place Now or something else ??
It may take time before I understand that Schematic.. The brake light fuse and Headlamp fuse ?

It looks as the Headlight fuse connect the rear light without any switch as soon as the power is on
 
As Jan says: your schematic for headlight looks correct to me.

So Y/R from fuse to yellow, splits to taillight and dimmer switch, splits at dimmer switch green to lo beam, yellow to hi beam (?) and direct ground from headlight to ?
 
Thinking out loud here
What happened to the Dodgy Ignition Switch is that one out off the bike ?? or still in ??
 
Post #433 Wiring in place Now or something else ??
It may take time before I understand that Schematic.. The brake light fuse and Headlamp fuse ?

It looks as the Headlight fuse connect the rear light without any switch as soon as the power is on
Its that schematic with the brake light corrections that JP made. Also youre right, the headlight fuse connects to the rear light without a switch. It goes straight to the headlight and hi/lo switch.
As Jan says: your schematic for headlight looks correct to me.

So Y/R from fuse to yellow, splits to taillight and dimmer switch, splits at dimmer switch green to lo beam, yellow to hi beam (?) and direct ground from headlight to ?
It goes Y/R from fuse to yellow, splits to taillight and headlight. No dimmer switch, just splits into yellow to high beam, green to low beam, and two grounds, one to the frame right near the coil and one in the LH controls.
Thinking out loud here
What happened to the Dodgy Ignition Switch is that one out off the bike ?? or still in ??
Yeah the ignition switch has been replaced with a basic flip switch hidden somewhere on my bike that nobody will ever find out about EVER
 
Thinking out loud again

If the rear lights come on the yellow has 12 V
I would check after the H-L switch
And then check inside the Head light --- .lamp holder and so
for 12 V upside and ground downside

1661025301171.png
 
Suggestion 1) - the toggle switch (flip) should be rated @ 30Amps+
Suggestion 2) - wire in another toggle switch (some switch on Y/R) so that you can leave lights off while starting (develop habit of turning on before put it in gear)

And, headlight itself should have some direct ground (if I understand)
 
Thinking out loud again

If the rear lights come on the yellow has 12 V
I would check after the H-L switch
And then check inside the Head light --- .lamp holder and so
for 12 V upside and ground downside

View attachment 222458
So the yellow wire gets 12 volts all the way to the headlight. I havent tested my grounds.
Suggestion 1) - the toggle switch (flip) should be rated @ 30Amps+
Suggestion 2) - wire in another toggle switch (some switch on Y/R) so that you can leave lights off while starting (develop habit of turning on before put it in gear)

And, headlight itself should have some direct ground (if I understand)
Okay. I didnt really think the switch would mean all too much since im running kick start only, but it does make sense to have one anyway. No need to have that draw on my battery during the day.
 
Suggestion 1) - the toggle switch (flip) should be rated @ 30Amps+
Suggestion 2) - wire in another toggle switch (some switch on Y/R) so that you can leave lights off while starting (develop habit of turning on before put it in gear)

And, headlight itself should have some direct ground (if I understand)
That toggle ignition switch is a 35amp. I wired another switch like you recommended on the y/r for the headlight, but still no luck. Turns on when it wants to not reliably. It’s not an issue with power connection bc I’m getting full power to the socket.
 
If ground continuity checks good (maybe to coil ground or battery (-)), then you'll have to substitute a known good headlight to diagnose.
 
Back
Top